Anyone want to remove exhaust studs

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meintjiesj

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I've broken off all 4 exhuast studs on my 1150. All the studs are still sticking out between 2 and 4 cm. Tried welding nuts on and heating round the stud but no luck. The studs are in any case so corroded that thye just break off every time I turn the nuts welded to them.

Been down to a local bike shop, thye not very keen on doing it because they have bikes to service for summer but said if I bring the heads in thye'll see if thye can get time.

Anyone round West Lothian that want to help, I'll reimburse you the sweat and bruised knuckles. I'll do a lot of things on a bike but my weakness is drilling. I am very dangerous with a drill.

I will take the heads off as a last resort.

Johan.
 
Try to get hold of some stud extractors I got some from machine mart, the type that fit onto the end of your socket set ratchet, librally cover studs with WD40 or similar and leave to soak in, heat the studs up and apply extractor, worked for me. Good luck.
 
meintjiesj said:
I've broken off all 4 exhuast studs on my 1150. All the studs are still sticking out between 2 and 4 cm. Tried welding nuts on and heating round the stud but no luck. The studs are in any case so corroded that thye just break off every time I turn the nuts welded to them.

Been down to a local bike shop, thye not very keen on doing it because they have bikes to service for summer but said if I bring the heads in thye'll see if thye can get time.

Anyone round West Lothian that want to help, I'll reimburse you the sweat and bruised knuckles. I'll do a lot of things on a bike but my weakness is drilling. I am very dangerous with a drill.

I will take the heads off as a last resort.

Johan.
Click to expand...


Dude, if you don't want to do it, and can't find anyone local, send me a photo and I'll weigh it up. Then you could post it down here and I'll have a go at removing the studs for you.
If all else fails, some spark eroding can be done or drilling oversize and installing helicoils back to original.

Timpo.
 
I had the same problem with one (luckily) of the studs on my XR250

A lot of pertinence, ACF50, WD40 and a heat gun worked wonders

I also found hitting the end of the stud with a hammer helped brake some of the corrosion, but be careful here as you don’t want to do more harm than good

Afterwards I found a product in Halfords that claims to freeze the studs, it might be worth heating the whole lot and trying this to freeze the stud.

The biggest tip I can suggest is that if you do get it moving, be really really gental! It took me an age to get mine out as I could only get it to turn maybe an eighth of a turn at a time and I had to keep tightening and untightening it to easy it out

Lots and lots of oil and heat

oh and avoid drilling if you can at all help it - I tried that once - the big problem I had is that the studs are steel and the head was aliminium so if you get it wrong you make a total mess
 
LiquidLAN said:
oh and avoid drilling if you can at all help it - I tried that once - the big problem I had is that the studs are steel and the head was aliminium so if you get it wrong you make a total mess
Click to expand...

indeed. with 4 studs to remove, you'll be very lucky to drill all 4 out.

if all else fails, remove the heads & get a machine shop to mill them out.
 
If you do decide to drill the studs then use the extractors do not use the tapered thread type, they rely
on the left hand thread taper to bite into the drilled hole, the problem is that the stud gets pressed against
the alloy and gets tighter. The parallel splined type are safer, works in a similar way to TORX bit, in that the
splined extractor creates it's own keyways when driven into the drilled hole.

I hope the above doesn't sound like twaddle, but I've used these yokes before on exhaust studs successfully.

Something like these.
 
you do have............

when the studs come out :augie (i'd still plump for welding nuts on the broken studs,letting them cool then heating the head around the stud area) the option of Helicoil inserts or stepped studs (now old fashioned but usable).
Both require drilling oversize holes before re-tapping.:rob
 
Daithi said:
If you do decide to drill the studs then use the extractors do not use the tapered thread type, they rely
on the left hand thread taper to bite into the drilled hole, the problem is that the stud gets pressed against
the alloy and gets tighter. The parallel splined type are safer, works in a similar way to TORX bit, in that the
splined extractor creates it's own keyways when driven into the drilled hole.

I hope the above doesn't sound like twaddle, but I've used these yokes before on exhaust studs successfully.

Something like these.
Click to expand...

Daithi I have a set of those, have used them for year the best bit of kit Ive in my big red tool box. Works ever time:thumb
 
meintjiesj said:
I've broken off all 4 exhuast studs on my 1150. All the studs are still sticking out between 2 and 4 cm. Tried welding nuts on and heating round the stud but no luck. The studs are in any case so corroded that thye just break off every time I turn the nuts welded to them.

Anyone round West Lothian that want to help, I'll reimburse you the sweat and bruised knuckles. I'll do a lot of things on a bike but my weakness is drilling. I am very dangerous with a drill.

Johan.
Click to expand...

Johan,

I have a 'cam-type' stud extractor that fits a socket drive. It passes over the stud then grips the stud with a knurled wheel. 2-4cm should be enough for it to work if there is sufficient clearance around the stud.

No drilling required and it works in both directions.

I am just a few miles from you if you want me to come over some time.

I'll PM my details so you can get in touch.

Bob.
 
So the heads are coming off

Bob and myself tried to remove one of the studs yesterday without any luck. So the heads are coming off. Talked to KESL in Livingston and thye'll remove the studs and put new ones in. Then it is off to Hendersons in Edinburgh for blast and coating. Seems thye would rather do a 2 pack epoxy than powdercoating. With all the heat the paint has realy flaked on a lot of places.

Will first do the one head and then the other one. Been reading up on Steptoe post on replacing the head gasket so don't think that part will be an issue. Just need to find a bit more on removing valves and rockers. So hope by end of March I'll be on the road again. Looking at about £200 for everything. The rocker covers still looks good so I'll leave them for now.

I'll post a few pics to see what happens if you don't loosen regularly. The bike is 7 years old and I was probably the first person to "try" and remove the nuts. Anyone thinking of doing this and don't know when last the exhaust nuts been undone - use heat on them first and also do it in the winter so that you have time to fix.
 
A few pics of the broken studs
 

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LiquidLAN said:
completely off topic, but that avatar is excellent... far too distracting :D
Click to expand...

OOOOOOHHHHHHHHHH Yes, That's a beauty.:)

Anyway back to the point. I broke my studs a few years back. Sent the heads down to the Cylinder Head Shop, 01507 358666 where he drilled out the studs and fitted Brass inserts. Wasn't cheep mind but he guaranteed me I would never have a problem again!! and he was right
 
Just had a talk with the Cylinder Head guys. Approx £20 per stud and then thye replace them with brass inserts. Thye will also get Fedex to pick them up at your house and deliver them back again for £50 approx. The guy was very helpfull and certainly knew what he was talking about.

Seems thye have moved also
The Cylinder Head Shop
Pourlmarle, Taghmon
County Wexford, Ireland
T : 00 353 53 9134090

I'll try the guys in Livngston at KESL first, could save a few pennies on the postage.
 
I take it you have a Haynes manual for removing the cams etc. I done mine from it and it was spot on. Only trouble I had was finding a valve spring compressor that was a good fit.:nenau
 
Yes, got the Haynes and a friend has the Clymler also. Thanks for the advise on the spring compressor. Which one did you use and where can I buy one?

Will first have to put the forks back because the rear wheel is on the ground now and not going to balance everything and get TDC without the bike falling over. In the meantime I'll start ordering some parts.
 
Was thinking that the dust from blasting could get in there. Do you think it'll be ok with using air to clean it out before it gets painted?
 
meintjiesj said:
Was thinking that the dust from blasting could get in there. Do you think it'll be ok with using air to clean it out before it gets painted?
Click to expand...

if it's being bead blasted, i'd strip & steam clean it. also run a tap down all threads.

didn't notice it was being blasted. does a great job but nasty stuff.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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