How to make a Canbus GPS cable for a 1200GS

If you are scared of soldering try using one of the connecters in the picture (ebay - 2-way AMP superseal). No solder required, waterproof and cheap. You can easily change your GPS or other gadget by buying another Superseal and changing that rather than the expensive GPS one. When you attached the Superseal to the BMW lead, it gives you a Superseal just behind the instrument cluster. All you do need is a pair of electrical pliers to crimp the connectors on.
is this the item you refer to
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-Way-AMP-Aut...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3358212ed8
is it definitely the 1.5 mm series superseal :confused:
 
I've not liked the crimp on superseal connector pins - the wire you're crimping is very thin, even when doubled/trippled etc up and I've sometimes failed to get a good enough crimp(i.e. cold weld) with just pliers.

So I solder these now.

YMMV :thumb
 
You will need

1 BMW canbus plug(If you have trouble finding one PM me I can get them)
1 GPS power cable
Small amount of 4-5 mm and 3-4mm heat shrink
solder
soldering iron
heat gun
wire strippers
wire cutters


Stumpy


sorry if i appear a fool - with regard to requiring 1 GPS power cable - the zumo 660 comes supplied with a cradle incorporating the power cable which then splits into
a) bare wires with inline fuse for power connection
b) headphone / audio out jack - 3.5 mm
c) mini usb connector for traffic receiver
d) microphone jack - 2.5 mm
i understand your instructions with regard to bare wires with inline fuse for power connection - my issue is where do i route cables b, c, and d - here is an image of the cradle and associated cabling
<a href="http://s374.photobucket.com/albums/oo187/thosoneill/?action=view&current=zumo6cradle.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo187/thosoneill/zumo6cradle.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
sorry if i appear a fool - with regard to requiring 1 GPS power cable - the zumo 660 comes supplied with a cradle incorporating the power cable which then splits into
a) bare wires with inline fuse for power connection
b) headphone / audio out jack - 3.5 mm
c) mini usb connector for traffic receiver
d) microphone jack - 2.5 mm
i understand your instructions with regard to bare wires with inline fuse for power connection - my issue is where do i route cables b, c, and d - here is an image of the cradle and associated cabling

(a) You route to a suitable power supply. Either the battery or to the dedicated spur behind the oil cooler / headstock are popular choices. That you know.

(b) You route, probably under the tank cover, to whatever you need to connect it to. An Autcom is a popular device.

(c) You connect to the traffic receiver. This is probably hung like a washing line across your screen, so not much choice.

(d) You will need to connect to the microphone's lead. Again, you can route this under the tank cover. I took mine back to an Autcom.


Just take a bit of care that you are not going to catch / fray the lead(s) when the steering swings through its arc. Also take care that the cable(s) are not routed anywhere where they can pick up stray electrical signals, or you will get interference. On my 1200GSA and on my previous vanilla 1200, I routed them under the nearside tank / side cover, back to an Autocom that resides permanently under the seat. A bit of your own trial and error may be necessary.


In short, you can route cables (a) (b) and (d) just about any way you like, towards wherever you want the ends of the leads to come out. (c) will have to go towards wherever you dangle the traffic receiver itself.
 
(a) You route to a suitable power supply. Either the battery or to the dedicated spur behind the oil cooler / headstock are popular choices. That you know.

(b) You route, probably under the tank cover, to whatever you need to connect it to. An Autcom is a popular device.

(c) You connect to the traffic receiver. This is probably hung like a washing line across your screen, so not much choice.

(d) You will need to connect to the microphone's lead. Again, you can route this under the tank cover. I took mine back to an Autcom.


Just take a bit of care that you are not going to catch / fray the lead(s) when the steering swings through its arc. Also take care that the cable(s) are not routed anywhere where they can pick up stray electrical signals, or you will get interference. On my 1200GSA and on my previous vanilla 1200, I routed them under the nearside tank / side cover, back to an Autocom that resides permanently under the seat. A bit of your own trial and error may be necessary.


In short, you can route cables (a) (b) and (d) just about any way you like, towards wherever you want the ends of the leads to come out. (c) will have to go towards wherever you dangle the traffic receiver itself.

Jeezus Wapping its 4:35 shouldn't you be in bed????:augie

Good post BTW, just surprised I am not the only one posting... Its 10:15 here:thumb
 
Jeezus Wapping its 4:35 shouldn't you be in bed????:augie

Good post BTW, just surprised I am not the only one posting... Its 10:15 here:thumb

Thank you.

Woke up to speak to my cousin in Melbourne, with a message from his mother (my aunt) - Don't ask the very convoluted reasons why she couldn't call her own son.

Got his answerphone :blast

Hung around for call back, so killed some time, trying to be helpful to a bod whose question seemed to suddenly jump from: Is this the connector, to: How do I route the cables?
 
You will need

1 BMW canbus plug(If you have trouble finding one PM me I can get them)
1 GPS power cable
Small amount of 4-5 mm and 3-4mm heat shrink
solder
soldering iron
heat gun
wire strippers
wire cutters

189002981-M.jpg


189003012-M.jpg


Unroll the GPS cable and cut off the inline fuse. The canbus system will protect the GPS unit. If you really really want to keep it in but I don't feel there is any need.

189003049-M.jpg


Thread the end of the GPS cable though a piece of 5-6mm heat shrink about 15 cm long then bare the ends of the wires

189003083-M.jpg


On the BMW socket there are 3 yellow wires numbered 1,2,3.

1 is negative/earth
2 is spare/pulse
3 is positive/ live

Cut number 2 short but not too short you want to be able to tuck it in the heat shrink later. Trim 1 & 2 thread on the 3-4 mm heat shrink as shown

189003212-M.jpg


Tin and solder the wires Black to wire 1 Red to wire 3

189003237-M.jpg


Cover the joints with the heat shrink and gently play the heat gun over them

189003357-M.jpg


Slide the larger piece of heat shrink up over both joints remembering to tuck the tale of wire 2 in the top and repeat with the heat gun

189003328-M.jpg


Thats the cable complete:thumb

The cable plugs into a matching socket attached to the wiring harness located around the headstock. It is covered with a black blanking plug and can be hard to find. The blanking plug has a sprung clip at its base which needs pressing while you remove it.

189003468-M.jpg




Regards

Stumpy


I bought one of these BMW sockets yesterday but having just looked at it I can't see any sign of numbering - is there another way to determine which wire is which?
Thanks
 
You will need

1 BMW canbus plug(If you have trouble finding one PM me I can get them)
1 GPS power cable
Small amount of 4-5 mm and 3-4mm heat shrink
solder
soldering iron
heat gun
wire strippers
wire cutters

189002981-M.jpg


189003012-M.jpg


Unroll the GPS cable and cut off the inline fuse. The canbus system will protect the GPS unit. If you really really want to keep it in but I don't feel there is any need.

189003049-M.jpg


Thread the end of the GPS cable though a piece of 5-6mm heat shrink about 15 cm long then bare the ends of the wires

189003083-M.jpg


On the BMW socket there are 3 yellow wires numbered 1,2,3.

1 is negative/earth
2 is spare/pulse
3 is positive/ live

Cut number 2 short but not too short you want to be able to tuck it in the heat shrink later. Trim 1 & 2 thread on the 3-4 mm heat shrink as shown

189003212-M.jpg


Tin and solder the wires Black to wire 1 Red to wire 3

189003237-M.jpg


Cover the joints with the heat shrink and gently play the heat gun over them

189003357-M.jpg


Slide the larger piece of heat shrink up over both joints remembering to tuck the tale of wire 2 in the top and repeat with the heat gun

189003328-M.jpg


Thats the cable complete:thumb

The cable plugs into a matching socket attached to the wiring harness located around the headstock. It is covered with a black blanking plug and can be hard to find. The blanking plug has a sprung clip at its base which needs pressing while you remove it.

189003468-M.jpg




Regards

Stumpy

Great help do you know if its the same on a 2010 gs thanks>
 
Any chance of a photo of the mounting

Superb Thread - Got my Canbus Plug today at Cooper Sunderland about £7 -and thanks to brilliant Pictures and info had the Zumo wired and running in about 20 mins.... Brilliant.
DSC00259.jpg

Dave:augie

Just about to connect mine, got the plug from Pidcocks, £10.00 and found the supply under the beak. Just wondering how you have done the mounting? Any chance of a photo.
 
Great post just in time for my experiment with a Garmini Nuvi 765T and a Givi S850 holder (can't afford a 660). Phoned a dealer to be told that there are no parts around and they did not know the part. Then re read this post and phoned Pidocks who knew the part straight away and had loads in stock. £10 + 88p P&P. Sorted
 
Hi Andy H,

I'm from Croatia and as we have only one (1) BMW dealer who likes to sell cars, it is impossible to get the plug from them.

How can I get one from you and how would I pay for it. PayPal maybe.

Thanks,
 
If you are scared of soldering try using one of the connecters in the picture (ebay - 2-way AMP superseal). No solder required, waterproof and cheap. You can easily change your GPS or other gadget by buying another Superseal and changing that rather than the expensive GPS one. When you attached the Superseal to the BMW lead, it gives you a Superseal just behind the instrument cluster. All you do need is a pair of electrical pliers to crimp the connectors on.

Hope that helps some of you go for it! Works a treat for me....zumo is superb. Going to experiment with a GTM 12 traffic receiver next. Found one cheap on ebay so worth a punt.



is it 2way or 3way connector that we need.

thanks
 
2-way.........there's three wires to the GPS socket on the bike but you only need the +ve and -ve
(1) Brown = ground (-ve earth)
(2) Blue/Green = Speed Pulse (not required)
(3) Red/White = 12V (+ve power)

I've just updated the page on my website again ;-)
GPS Sat Nav Power Connection
 
Garmin cabling

I've seen the link above, but, how do I sort/source a single feed from canbus to gps mount without the additional spurs??? is there such an item without totally wrecking the standard part that comes with the 660?
 
8th June 2010

I've just got off the phone to Lind in NORWICH.

After quoting the original part number shown in the original post, the parts chappie found the new part number.

They even had one on the shelf. £10 + vat. I'm picking it up this afternoon.

Then I'll be fitting my new Zumo 660..... :JB:JB:JB:JB
 
excellent info.
chester bmw have the canbus plug over the parts counter. part number as miff said. just bought mine today, £9.
:beerjug:
 


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