How to check your Final drive bearing - 1100/1150

Steptoe

What a waste.
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Going on a trip and worried about your final drive bearing ?. The one that can fail.

This won't help with a sudden collapse, but most of them aren't, they're a gradual process.

It'll cost you a final drive output seal, about £15-£20, but if your off on your holidays or a long trip it must be worth it for peace of mind.

Remove the rear wheel - drain the final drive oil.

Here's the seal your looking for.



Remove the seal.



Now examine the bearing cage through the gap left by the seal.




What your looking for are any of the rivets missing in the bearing cage , or a broken/snapped bearing cage.

What you want to see is this, in the picture below. All the rivets in place and the cage unbroken.



What you don't want to see is this. ( pictures are of the bearing removed from the final drive, but you'll still be able to see any of the damage with it in place)
A missing rivet - which will lead to the cage breaking and the bearing rollers all being pushed together. In the condition shown, the bearing had no noise or play, and you wouldn't have known about it until the bearing collapsed, which be could as long as a thousand miles .



A broken cage. As you can see, it's started to spread, and will deteriorate rapidly, but again there were no noises or roughness when the rear wheel was turned, so you wouldn't have known about it.

.

After checking , the seal replacement is simply straigthforward. Pop a new one back in place.
Of course this doesn't guarantee in any way that the bearing you checked, and was in perfect condition will last the length of your journey. :D

Part Nos:-
Seal - 33 12 7 663 482
Bearing - 33 12 1 242 210
 
If I can just add my tuppence worth to what Steptoe says about 'not knowing'; mine went about three years ago, absolutely no warning of any kind; the first I knew about it was a pool of oil under/on the rear wheel when I came out of the pub (non-alcoholic drinking) one night. When I removed the seal, the cage came out with it, in three pieces, and I'd even managed to ride it (carefully) home, about 1.5 miles, still no indication of owt wrong. It must be worth that £15-£20 quid to check...

Cheers,

Dave.
 
But what causes the bearing to fail, too tightly shimmed, poor quality bearing, both, or something else?
 
But what causes the bearing to fail, too tightly shimmed, poor quality bearing, both, or something else?

Thanks Steptoe. Excellent advice.

ebbo, the bearing just have some expected lifetime or so.
60.000 - 150.000 km or something depending on load, driving etc.
I just changed mine, 100.000 km, no problems though.

Pekka
 
There’s lots of talk on this board and others about premature FD failure.

Many machines go on to very high mileages without any problem, the FD of my old airhead went over 100,000 miles with only oil seal failure, it was still going strong when I sold it (it was 20 years old by then)

So, why do some FD’s fail prematurely?
 
There’s lots of talk on this board and others about premature FD failure.

Many machines go on to very high mileages without any problem, the FD of my old airhead went over 100,000 miles with only oil seal failure, it was still going strong when I sold it (it was 20 years old by then)

So, why do some FD’s fail prematurely?


The forces acting on this (single swinging arm) bearing, particularly when the bike is fully loaded with passenger and luggage, must be considerable.
Makes me wonder if it has been underdesigned in the first place but am not an expert on bearing design and does not explain why some last longer than others.
:nenau
 
Well the 1150 of 99 vintage had the seal leak at 57,000 km it is a weekend bike, the bearing had play so I replaced it but not the seal.

It is now only at 90,000 km but no furtherbearing or seal changes.

As for underdesign, I doubt it, then the ones like mine would fail due to dirt road corrugations etc earlier, they do not, the gentle tourers fail just as often, tells me its a set up "shimming" issue?

Welsh :ronno
 
Another very useful thread! :thumb2

As for underdesign, I doubt it, then the ones like mine would fail due to dirt road corrugations etc earlier, they do not, the gentle tourers fail just as often, tells me its a set up "shimming" issue?

My thoughts exacly.

Shimming plus a possible play in the inner short shaft that supports the tapered roller bearing at one end and big ball bearing and crown in the other end is glued into the detail holding the rear wheel(?)

Can't find the post now but I've read in one ADVrider's FD post that this can have few-micrometer play when the glue comes loose and thus induces additional axial play for main big bearing = faster failure. The guy in ADVrider had multiple premature failures while he shimmed correct so he decided to CNC a new shaft on turning lathe, slightly bigger than stock so it fits into the hole thighter (less axial play). Apparently glue geting loose is much more rarer case than the wrong shimming issue.

To sum up FD main causes looks like: wrong shimming (primarly) + riding style/conditions (far away secondary) + loose glue issue (unlucky case) to me ?
 

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There’s lots of talk on this board and others about premature FD failure.

Many machines go on to very high mileages without any problem, the FD of my old airhead went over 100,000 miles with only oil seal failure, it was still going strong when I sold it (it was 20 years old by then)

So, why do some FD’s fail prematurely?

K series bikes have also had the same set up since 1984, and they very rarely fail.

It just seems to be the 4 valve R series that suffer more than most.
 
I don’t think it’s a bad design (the 1100/1150 FD) it’s not that different to my old Airhead’s and I don’t believe that series had any issues with the FD. I think incorrect shimming would be tops for cause.

Maybe the rivet/cage breaking could be symptoms of a ball race under stress, the balls trying to bunch up, strain the cage in to failure, and that’s the end of the ball race.

Just thinking…
 
K series bikes have also had the same set up since 1984, and they very rarely fail.

It just seems to be the 4 valve R series that suffer more than most.
Agreed Steptoe, its all over Adv Rider and Sport touring (and here), its been going on a long time.
 
Realy useful Steptoe - going to check mine this weekend as changed oil in final drive last weekend and there were a couple of metal shavings on the magnetic sump plug so fearing the worst :(

What is the next step if bearing is damaged in any way - is it possible to replace bearing or am I looking at a replacement final drive?
 
What is the next step if bearing is damaged in any way - is it possible to replace bearing or am I looking at a replacement final drive?

just fit a new bearing Rolf. If memory serves, Steptoe has already posted a thread showing how to do it. He can even fit a new bearing at the roadside using basic tools. :bow
 
FD

Thanx Steptoe
I am getting some intermitent vibe through my seat which feels like a wheel bearing but it not. I have checked both wheels and think it might be a FD bearing or similar.. Not done one of these before so your photos are helpful.
The vibe comes in intermitently and sometimes on LH corners..:nenau
 
Nklise at rear

If you havent farted E-bay at once.
 


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