Telelever Ball Joint

Phang

Guest
Not a GS but a R1150R Roadster having the similar telelever and ball joint :)

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My 2002 R1150R has a torn telelever ball joint rubber bellow. The slit on the rubber bellow exposes the grease to the elements. Before things get worse, I should do something on it.

I found out a few things on this telelever ball joint.

1. BMW don’t sell the rubber bellow separately.
2. A special socket and hex key set is required to remove and to reinstall the ball joint collar nut [14] at the leading link side.
3. A 46mm flat to flat socket is required to remove the ball joint from the slider tube bridge [11].
4. A good 230Nm of torque is needed to fasten it back to the slider tube bridge [11].

I bought a new but defective (seized) ball joint online a while ago at a discounted price, my plan is to remove the rubber bellow from the new ball joint and replace the torn one on my bike with this new bellow without replacing the ball joint on my bike.

The ball joint on my bike seems good, I will give it a good clean up and repack with fresh grease before I put everything back.

Now, the question:-

The BMW repair manual call for a “new nut [14] or clean thread + Loctite2701)”

I bought a new collar nut [14], it came pre-coated with some kind of thread locker on the thread. Do I use the collar nut [14] straight from the packaging or do I still need to apply Loctite2701 when I torque it down to 130Nm?

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The nut [14], pre-coated with the turquoise colour thread locker
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I got this Hazet tools from a mate who sells German tools :beerjug:

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The blue green stuff inside your new nut is thread locker :thumb2 Are you sure your new balljoint is siezed? new ones can be very stiff.

Stewart
 
Hi Steward,

The seller said it is seized hence selling at a discounted price. I have tried holding the base of the ball joint in my left palm and inserted the 7mm Hazet allen key into the top post, it won't budge at all.

Phang
 
if the old one is thread locked , dose heat need to be applied?

ugg

It might help, but its a steel nut on a steel thread so theres less risk of the threads galling, I would heat the fork brace if replacing the whole item though.

Stewart
 
It might help, but its a steel nut on a steel thread so theres less risk of the threads galling, I would heat the fork brace if replacing the whole item though.

Stewart
The heat is to soften and release the Loctite.
 
hI

Just done this job on my 01 1150GS, yes apply threadlock when fitting the new nut. You do not need the special tool given the 230nm applied to the ball joint. I used a ring spanner,a scaffold pipe extension and 7mm allen key to tighten the nut. Finished off with a torque wrench to get the specified torque.

Simon
 
I think I'd just replace the joint with a new one. Rather than replace the boot.

That ball joint has a significant impact on the whole set-up working properly.... I know they're not especially cheap, but it's not a job you'll do often, if again. Replacing the boot is 3/4 of the trouble fit a new joint IMO.
 
I need to replace the ball joint rubber bellows on my 2006 R1200GSA, I need to buy one of the open sockets like in the pictures in post#1 anyone know the size and where i may get one from?
 
Absolute rubbish. 5 minute job to replace the rubber boot.
Technically, i agree!

But I think my point was that you might as well replace it if you're going that trouble (because it's just another 10min to replace the whole thing )
 
Technically, i agree!

But I think my point was that you might as well replace it if you're going that trouble (because it's just another 10min to replace the whole thing )

Even if there's nothing wrong with it and it's 100% ..
 
Even if there's nothing wrong with it and it's 100% ..
Well, i think it depends, of course. If you knew for certain that you'd found the split very early, probably no. But my own, limited experience with one that split was that while the joint looked and moved fine, it wasn't... Fitting the new one transformed the handling, so I guess I'm now very conscious of the relevance of that joint on the whole set up. That was on a very clean, 45k miles 1999 GS. Bike was used daily in all weathers and I reckon the split was there for 2-4 months before I noticed.

For the extra 10 min, it's gotta be worth it. No?
 
I need to replace the ball joint rubber bellows on my 2006 R1200GSA, I need to buy one of the open sockets like in the pictures in post#1 anyone know the size and where i may get one from?

I believe 21mm (that's what the 1150s are and from reading a 1200 thread on ADVRider it seems to match).

If you look for a diesel injector socket it's exactly what you need, just watch out as they make them in different sizes. I got mine from here: https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product...52729-Injector-Socket-21-X-90Mm-1-2Insq-Drive

I used it the other day and after a bit of work with the heat gun it worked a treat. I had to buy a 7mm allen key separately too as you won't get a hex bit socket in there.
 
I believe 21mm (that's what the 1150s are and from reading a 1200 thread on ADVRider it seems to match).

If you look for a diesel injector socket it's exactly what you need, just watch out as they make them in different sizes. I got mine from here: https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product...52729-Injector-Socket-21-X-90Mm-1-2Insq-Drive

I used it the other day and after a bit of work with the heat gun it worked a treat. I had to buy a 7mm allen key separately too as you won't get a hex bit socket in there.

Thank you very much metropolis2k exactly the answer i needed :thumby:, I was at work when i posted the question so was hoping for an answer like yours, checked the bike last night and yup 21mm strut nut socket and 7mm Allen Key, been trying to find a supplier ebay, amazon, google and not found anything reasonably priced. your link is perfect will put one on order thank you very much :beerjug:
 
Thank you very much metropolis2k exactly the answer i needed :thumby:, I was at work when i posted the question so was hoping for an answer like yours, checked the bike last night and yup 21mm strut nut socket and 7mm Allen Key, been trying to find a supplier ebay, amazon, google and not found anything reasonably priced. your link is perfect will put one on order thank you very much :beerjug:

If you are talking about the collar nut i.e. the one the black plastic cap goes on, you don't need the special socket. Just use a decent length 21mm ring spanner, an allen key socket and ratchet and 21mm socket and torque wrench: 1) Hook ring spanner over nut. 2) cable tie ratchet to offside fork leg and insert allen socket into top of ball joint. 3) tighten nut till it gets pretty tight. 4) Unhook ratchet but leave tied to fork leg. 5) Set torque wrench to 120 nm and see if you have reached that. 6) if not, repeat steps 1-5 until 120nm reached. 7) increase torque setting to required setting- 130nm if memory serves me correctly. 8) repeat steps 1-6 until desired torque reached.
Ten minutes of a job. PS wrapping a rag round fork leg before cable tying ratchet helps stop it from slipping and protects fork leg.
 
If you are talking about the collar nut i.e. the one the black plastic cap goes on, you don't need the special socket. Just use a decent length 21mm ring spanner, an allen key socket and ratchet and 21mm socket and torque wrench: 1) Hook ring spanner over nut. 2) cable tie ratchet to offside fork leg and insert allen socket into top of ball joint. 3) tighten nut till it gets pretty tight. 4) Unhook ratchet but leave tied to fork leg. 5) Set torque wrench to 120 nm and see if you have reached that. 6) if not, repeat steps 1-5 until 120nm reached. 7) increase torque setting to required setting- 130nm if memory serves me correctly. 8) repeat steps 1-6 until desired torque reached.
Ten minutes of a job. PS wrapping a rag round fork leg before cable tying ratchet helps stop it from slipping and protects fork leg.

Thanks West Coast Traveller top tip will give it a try :thumby:
 


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