Is there a similar accessory (if yes what it the part number and where from it can be bought) availbale for the R1150GS?
Cheers!
Anyone care to post a solution for 1150GS?
Is there a similar accessory (if yes what it the part number and where from it can be bought) availbale for the R1150GS?
Cheers!
Here you are everyone, courtesy of Gunsmoke's website. He uses a 12 volt terminal block (Red positive + and Black negative -) which is itself unfused, relying on the Canbus to make the fuse for him. You could use a Centec fuse box just as well.
I will also take the liberty of repeating Gunsmoke's advice on the relays:
........ is the relay that switches power to the terminal blocks. I had a small Bosch component (Bosch part no. 0 332 011 007) I which is very small as relays go. I chose to label the wires going to the relay so that I could figure out what went where later. The relay pin layout and schematic are shown below.
As shown in the schematic, the leads that used to connect to the auxiliary power socket now connect to pins 1 and 2 on the relay. The fused power lead from the auxiliary power socket itself connects to pin 3, with a wire running from pin 5 going to the 12 V terminal strip.
Here is a link to some really good information on installing relays, again prompted by Gunsmoke (to whom I remain endebted etc. etc. etc,)
Relays You will notice that the site prompts you to take power from the diagnostic plug. This makes it complicated in my opinion and brings people back to the fear (quite understandable) of doing something irreversible to damage their bike. Using a splitter from the aux. socket avoids this concern completely, simply as it leaves all the bike's loom wiring completely untouched and is completely reversible in just two minutes, I promise.
If anyone is nervous of relays, don't be. Just think of them as automatic switches, that only turn on (by magic) when conditions are right. Just take a bit of time working out which pin is which and all will be well. Any good High Street auto-electrical shop will tell you, for sure.
Here is a link to how relays work: It's (not quite) magic
I hope the whole thread is useful and will give anyone the confidence to give it a go.
PS For what it's worth I prefer the BlueSea fuse boxes to Centec's. BlueSea Their Terminal blocks are neat, too http://bluesea.com/category/9/36/productline/190
Sometimes you may want to use the accessory socket with the ignition off - for things like a chargers, compressor, camping stuff, lights etc. If you want to do this I recommend using a seperate fuse block which has both switched and unswitched outputs. I have one such device supplied by Jim Davis of Eastern Beaver (great products and not expensive for what you get) - it has 6 switched and 2 unswitched outputs complete with corresponding earths. In my case, I completely disconnected the OEM accessory socket under the seat and replaced it with a Powerlet socket and wired it direct to an unswitched output of the fuseblock so I can use it regardless of the ignition. I then have the other stuff such as GPS power, heated clothing, spot lamps etc connected to the switched outputs so they only work with the ignition on. Works well for me.
The power at the Aux socket remains live for approx 15 mins after the ignition has been switched off. Now, if you decide to take a spur off the aux socket to power an Autocom with a bluetooth dongle for you phone then it will remain actively connect via the bluethooth unless you switch off the connection via your phone.
A bit of a pain in the ass if someone phones you when your off the bike and your helmet is put away in the cupboard, cause the dongle will automatically answer the incoming call.
I find the best way to have additional aux power is to use a relay and a switched live from the ignition. That way when you switch off the ignition you kill the power to the new aux sockets.
From the Manual
In order
to ensure that the drain on the
on-board power supply system
is minimised, the supply to the
power socket is cut off approximately
15 minutes after the ignition
is switched off,
Here is the Baron's lead in all its glory.
He tells me the lead is over a meter long....
The sockets look totally different, too.
Any switched power supply will do, for instance the rear light feed.
If you wanted to avoid chopping into any wires, have a look at this: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/elec...-connector-for-bmw-ducati-triumph-motorcycles
It really is plug-and-play; nicely made, too.