No need to unplug them ?
In fact i use the servo motor to bleed the unit. Turn on ignition, touch brake lever, fluid gets pumped out. Simples.
Life couldn't be easier. Saves all that quaint old fashioned pumping of levers.
Simple, NO COST servo removal of 1150 IABS system
- Thread starter DaveH
- Start date
No need to unplug them ?
In fact i use the servo motor to bleed the unit. Turn on ignition, touch brake lever, fluid gets pumped out. Simples.
Life couldn't be easier. Saves all that quaint old fashioned pumping of levers.
Exactly, almost like the ease of bleeding brakes on self levelling Citroens. And if you don't can you bleed it properly? I don't know like most I have never tried.
John
ahutcheon
Registered user
Yep, that's what I did to bleed the fluid out at the callipers. But I also bled the fluid through from the reservoirs on handlebar and by the pedal, that's when I disconnected the servo electrics.
I replaced 4 lots of fluid, 3 were manky as f**k (dark and ancient); I guess that's the risk of regular servicing at the same place, if something gets missed it always gets missed.
Beano
Registered user
Where do I find the info that doesn't mean I have to cut the wiring harness?
Want to go to no abs or servo but still leave the wiring intact.
Thanks in advance
cele0001
Registered user
Basher
Registered user
Dave H,
Thanks for the info, i had to carry this out on my 1150 gs 03 abs(or now non-abs) this morning. All seems fine for now. Again many thanks.
Thanks for the info, i had to carry this out on my 1150 gs 03 abs(or now non-abs) this morning. All seems fine for now. Again many thanks.
So after an hour into an eight hour ride in France on Wednesday, I got the now familiar 4hz flashing top light/ on and steady lower light which was caused by the modulator in the rear brake circuit, so the mechanic at the BMW garage in Limoges told me. On the basis that the pump is fooked and I'm not going to spend half the bike's value on a replacement, can I confirm the following ref removal is the best way forward:
1. Don't cut the harness and use the instructions ref electronics in post #65 on this page.
2. Re-plumb the brakes (remove all metal pipe work etc) as per the original post #1
3. As I've got a 2004 1150gsa with braided brake lines, do I need the link piece that Motorworks sell as mentioned in post #48?
Finally has anyone tried to take apart/fix the servo unit? The electronics aside there can't be much to it other than a couple of pressure valves and a pump. My guess with mine is that one of the valve is stuck/buggered. Also what do peeps do with the old unit - scrap it or is there any market for used ones for spares?
Ta
1. Don't cut the harness and use the instructions ref electronics in post #65 on this page.
2. Re-plumb the brakes (remove all metal pipe work etc) as per the original post #1
3. As I've got a 2004 1150gsa with braided brake lines, do I need the link piece that Motorworks sell as mentioned in post #48?
Finally has anyone tried to take apart/fix the servo unit? The electronics aside there can't be much to it other than a couple of pressure valves and a pump. My guess with mine is that one of the valve is stuck/buggered. Also what do peeps do with the old unit - scrap it or is there any market for used ones for spares?
Ta
there is no need to purchase any parts at all. You can use what you have.
Thanks Neil
Right guys, did this today to my new Adv. Things to note:
No need to drill the screws to remove the electrickery from the servo, pin torx security bits are easily available (halfrauds) which means you can easily unscrew it. Remove from the pump, seal with a plate and silicone, replug in the big connector and everything works as expected.
My front brake lines wouldn't work as previously posted because of my bar risers. Don't buy the Motorworks kit, I had my local garage knock me a brake pipe connector up for £0 (I dropped him a tenner anyway because they were so helpful).
Beware when removing the bulb from the abs warning light, it's in tight and if you slip it feckin hurts
Thanks for all the advice gentlemen, I'm a happy camper. 2 hrs start to finish including getting the garage to make the pipe.
No need to drill the screws to remove the electrickery from the servo, pin torx security bits are easily available (halfrauds) which means you can easily unscrew it. Remove from the pump, seal with a plate and silicone, replug in the big connector and everything works as expected.
My front brake lines wouldn't work as previously posted because of my bar risers. Don't buy the Motorworks kit, I had my local garage knock me a brake pipe connector up for £0 (I dropped him a tenner anyway because they were so helpful).
Beware when removing the bulb from the abs warning light, it's in tight and if you slip it feckin hurts
Thanks for all the advice gentlemen, I'm a happy camper. 2 hrs start to finish including getting the garage to make the pipe.
cele0001
Registered user
I cut across the screw head with a cutoff wheel and used flat screwdriver to get them out, (just in case you don't have the tool).
You can break the little pin in the center of the head with a small nail or screwdriver if you don't have the tamper proof torx tool, normal torx will then fit.
tamper screw sets http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-PIECE...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5af720518a
tamper screw sets http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-PIECE...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5af720518a
Madden
Registered user
Brakes constantly flashing - urgent help needed
I am aware that this post is old but couldn't find an answer so trying again.
I have taken servo unit out yesterday, unscrewed electrics from the right hand side and plugged it back in to the main plug. I have kept servo relay in the fuse box.
Brake failure light and hazardous light flashes. Obviously I'll still need to remove them.
Question is why my rear brake light is constantly on?
I've done all usual checks (stuck pedal etc.) and it's still on.
No wires were cut, no changes to the relays, fuses etc. were made.
Shall I unplug servo relay in the fuse box (that will eliminate brake light warning on the dashboard so only one bulb needs to be removed from the panel instead of two) or keep it in place?
It's quite urgent as I need to have a bike ready for tomorrow morning.
I am sure that someone had the similar issue already.
Please help.
Pull out the warning bulbs in the instrument panel
Have you replaced the brake servo relay ?
You should have your brake lights working normally with the servo ecu brain plugged in, regardless of the main unit being removed.
I am aware that this post is old but couldn't find an answer so trying again.
I have taken servo unit out yesterday, unscrewed electrics from the right hand side and plugged it back in to the main plug. I have kept servo relay in the fuse box.
Brake failure light and hazardous light flashes. Obviously I'll still need to remove them.
Question is why my rear brake light is constantly on?
I've done all usual checks (stuck pedal etc.) and it's still on.
No wires were cut, no changes to the relays, fuses etc. were made.
Shall I unplug servo relay in the fuse box (that will eliminate brake light warning on the dashboard so only one bulb needs to be removed from the panel instead of two) or keep it in place?
It's quite urgent as I need to have a bike ready for tomorrow morning.
I am sure that someone had the similar issue already.
Please help.
If both your hand and foot switches are OK.
They should show short when released and open circuit when operated, then it points to a fault within the ABS electronic control module.
You may have to go all the way and chop the wiring.
I take it that the constant brake light is only after you removed the servo module, and wasn't there before. Because when I had a constant brake light once, it was because the two filaments in the bulb were touching.
Ian
They should show short when released and open circuit when operated, then it points to a fault within the ABS electronic control module.
You may have to go all the way and chop the wiring.
I take it that the constant brake light is only after you removed the servo module, and wasn't there before. Because when I had a constant brake light once, it was because the two filaments in the bulb were touching.
Ian
Madden
Registered user
Light was present when the front brake lever was getting stuck previously but by holding it away it did release the light. Based on that I'd say ABS electronic module is fine.
What is the correct setup: with or without relay?
The controlling relays for the ABS warning light and the General warning light are inside the ABS electronic module. The only difference is that one control relay operates the external ABS warning relay (blue relay in fuse box). The other control relay operates the general warning light directly.
You will need to remove the blue relay to turn off the ABS warning light, but need to remove the general warning light bulb to turn it off.
However I don't think removing the relay and bulb is going to cure your brake light problem.
Try removing the big connector from the electronic module and check all the pins are OK. As in none pushed back. Then refit the connector again to see if it cures your brake light problem.
Ian
Edit
Pay particular attention to pins 40, 39, 41, and 7 as these are the brake switch lines into the abs module. If any are not making a connection then they will give the same symptoms as if the switch brake switch is operated.
You will need to remove the blue relay to turn off the ABS warning light, but need to remove the general warning light bulb to turn it off.
However I don't think removing the relay and bulb is going to cure your brake light problem.
Try removing the big connector from the electronic module and check all the pins are OK. As in none pushed back. Then refit the connector again to see if it cures your brake light problem.
Ian
Edit
Pay particular attention to pins 40, 39, 41, and 7 as these are the brake switch lines into the abs module. If any are not making a connection then they will give the same symptoms as if the switch brake switch is operated.
Why not help yourself ? ..... pull out the ABS relay and find out.
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.The relay is removed when removing the servo/abs unit.
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Madden
Registered user
Why not help yourself ? ..... pull out the ABS relay and find out.
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.The relay is removed when removing the servo/abs unit.
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I've tried that already and a result was that warning light stopped flashing.
I can't explain myself why break light is always on starting from that exact time.
Coincident?
Post 76, explains that when you held the brake lever away from the grips, the light went out. If this is the case the lever needs removed cleaned regreased and reassembled. Sounds like its not fully returning to its end stop, and consequently still depressing the brake microswitch.
Other option is remove brake lever, then test the brake microswitch by depressing the metal tab and see if brake light comes on and off.
Maybe not but a few suggestions.
Other option is remove brake lever, then test the brake microswitch by depressing the metal tab and see if brake light comes on and off.
Maybe not but a few suggestions.
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