Simple, NO COST servo removal of 1150 IABS system

You can break the little pin in the center of the head with a small nail or screwdriver if you don't have the tamper proof torx tool, normal torx will then fit.

tamper screw sets http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-PIECE...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5af720518a

They don't all use torx tamper proof screws...
lSome servo/abs units use a different type of security screw. It's looks like the Isle of man emblem with three leg type of indentations on the screw head.. If you have these just hit a torx bit into them, they're quite soft.
 
Pull out the warning bulbs in the instrument panel :D
Have you replaced the brake servo relay ?

You should have your brake lights working normally with the servo ecu brain plugged in, regardless of the main unit being removed.

Hi,
I did everything as advised but my break light is still on all the time.

Do I need to replace the brake servo relay? What would be the point if it doesn't need to be plugged in anyway.

I remember Steptoe saying there is no need to buy any part.

I really don't want to cut the wiring.

Any suggestions please?
 
If the "Brake" light is always on? you could just have a switch out of adjustment

Push the hand lever outwards from the bar and see if it goes out? If it does you can remove the plastic cover from the underside of the throttle switchgear and GENTLY bend the metal arm a mm at a time Remember that you need to make sure that the brake light works when you pull the lever as a few muppets have bent it and then came as asked me why their brake light doesn't work after MOT!!!

Same with the footbrake look under and make sure the metal arm is between the brake stop and the lever

If you had Servo ABS the switches on those models are "contacts connected" when the brake is off and contacts broken when you pull the lever or push the pedal

So if you have a broken wire or a switch not "closing" properly your brake light will be on!

I did everything as advised but my break light is still on all the time.
 
Hi,
I did everything as advised but my break light is still on all the time.

Do I need to replace the brake servo relay? What would be the point if it doesn't need to be plugged in anyway.

I remember Steptoe saying there is no need to buy any part.

I really don't want to cut the wiring.

Any suggestions please?

The brake switch internals on a servo bike work the opposite way around to normal brake switches.

i.e. if you fitted a normal brake switch to a servo bike the brake light would be on and when you applied the brakes the brake light would go out...

Removing the servo is as a very simple operation requiring no cutting of wires and buying of any parts.
 
The brake switch internals on a servo bike work the opposite way around to normal brake switches.

i.e. if you fitted a normal brake switch to a servo bike the brake light would be on and when you applied the brakes the brake light would go out...

Removing the servo is as a very simple operation requiring no cutting of wires and buying of any parts.

I didn't replace any switch or relay and performed servo removal as per instructions without cutting the loom.

I can't understand why the brake light is on as it shouldn't be.
 
1. Have you checked to make sure that the large black connected which you removed from the ABS electronic module when you removed the servo, is fully seated.

2. To check your brake switch lines. Remove the large black connector, and check for continuity across pins 40 and 39. This should show a short circuit. If you operate the hand brake lever, this should change to an open circuit.

Next check continuity across pins 41 and 7. This should also show a short circuit. If you operate the foot brake lever this should change to an open circuit.

Now if either of those circuits is a constant open circuit, it will be the cause of why your brake light is on permanently. You will then need to investigate from the connector up to the relevant switches for a break.

If the continuity checks work OK, then it could be that there is a fault within the ABS electronic module.
Ian
 
1. Have you checked to make sure that the large black connected which you removed from the ABS electronic module when you removed the servo, is fully seated.

2. To check your brake switch lines. Remove the large black connector, and check for continuity across pins 40 and 39. This should show a short circuit. If you operate the hand brake lever, this should change to an open circuit.

Next check continuity across pins 41 and 7. This should also show a short circuit. If you operate the foot brake lever this should change to an open circuit.

Now if either of those circuits is a constant open circuit, it will be the cause of why your brake light is on permanently. You will then need to investigate from the connector up to the relevant switches for a break.

If the continuity checks work OK, then it could be that there is a fault within the ABS electronic module.
Ian

I'll have a go today.

Thank You very much for all your help so far.
 
Light was present when the front brake lever was getting stuck previously but by holding it away it did release the light.

Did you read what I said earlier about undoing the plastic cover under the throttle switch gear and checking the front brake switch for adjustment ?????

Fcuk me Its like trying to nail Jelly to a wall!!! .... -> Go for the simple first!!!! and if that doesn;t work then go for complex stuff

You can "try" removing the screws to adjust the switch on the front brake but the are that tiny they will probably be seized and break!!!

just gently bend the metal arm towards the brake lever a mm a time until the light goes out

BUT check that it works when you pull the lever on so that you have a brake light
 
Did you read what I said earlier about undoing the plastic cover under the throttle switch gear and checking the front brake switch for adjustment ?????

Fcuk me Its like trying to nail Jelly to a wall!!! .... -> Go for the simple first!!!! and if that doesn;t work then go for complex stuff

Yes I did.

You are referring to the comment that was made before your suggestions about front brake switch adjustment !
 
Argh! I just had to cancel a ride out as my servo seems to have failed on my 2002 1150gsa :(

I had a quick look at the servo removal info and am not sure I'm up to the job; technically challenged! Does anyone have any idea how much this would cost to be done professionally and could anyone recommend an able mechanic in the Cambridge area?
 
If you know how to take the tank off, and know how to bleed brakes you know enough to do it.
 
Fired up with enthusiasm decided to give this a go!

First speed bump... when I removed tank, found a couple of hoses that I hadn't noticed that might be vacuum hoses(?) one has a fast connector on it... My question is, when put the tank back on, where do these two connect to? Trid to add pics here but no idea how!
 
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lol, well... I think I have done the piping and bleeding. Am about to try the electrical part... As some of the threads seems to conflict, not sure if I should

A).
strip back the wiring on the abs mega plug
connect the relevant wires to the redundant relay

or

B).
remove the electrical part from the servo and plug into the servo/abs plug

or

C). a combination of A n B
 
Regarding the extra balance fuel pipes, I didn't notice these as I removed the tank and more or less must have wrenched them free. As they now refuse to connect to each other, I may well have damaged the brittle plastic.
 
DO NOT cut the wires!!!!!

It's very simple to split the electrical box, disconnect it from the pump and put it all back together without disturbing the wiring!!

FFS why make it hard for yourself. doing it without cutting means your brake lights all work and someone can return it back to ABS if they are crazy enough to later on.

I did remove the pump and make a plate to seal the electrics in, but you can just screw it all back together and leave the wiring disconnected if you choose.

I'm struggling to work out the connectors on your's because the pic isn't brilliant, but they don't look quite right, probably replaced in the past with a different type to the standard ones (or maybe the pic is just bad. The connector is only there on the ADV tank and it is normally tucked away. If you had to wrench the tank off then it's likely you fecked the connector as the tank should slip off easily once these connectors (3 in all) are undone (along with the 2 breather pipes and the fuel gauge sender wiring block.

Make sure you have the back grommet thingy off the back of the rubber bush that the tank bolt sits through. If you don't you will crush the frame tangs when you tighten up the tank and that's baf form. The back of the rubber bush has fallen off every GS I've ever owned and tends to lodge somewhere really inconvenient or fecks off at 900mph across the garage floor and underneath an object which takes an hour to shift so that you can retrieve said silly round piece of shite rubber bastard :D

DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES!!!!!!

Sorry, but it was worth repeating
:thumb

 


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