1200GS clutch change how too

dont need a special tool for the clips, use a pair of pump pliers:thumby:

I think they are designed quite well tbh:bow
 
dont need a special tool for the clips, use a pair of pump pliers:thumby:

I think they are designed quite well tbh:bow

Or nail pliers... perfectly designed for the job. :D
 

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Great post!

Thanks Spike. I've got to replace the crankshaft oil seal on my 2005 (19,000 miles) GS and was bricking it a bit until I read your well documented and photographed post. The dealer had quoted me about £800!

Regards, Mike
 
HI Spike, brilliant post, especially as i am having clutch problems with my GSA,

1. you mention a BMW REPROM Disc???
2. cut to the rebuild, are there any specialist tools/ diagnostics required to bleed the rear brakes ABS and or the clutch

any help with this would be absolutely fantastic

cheers Spike

Tony 07534499924
 
2. cut to the rebuild, are there any specialist tools/ diagnostics required to bleed the rear brakes ABS and or the clutch

any help with this would be absolutely fantastic

cheers Spike

Tony 07534499924

ABS brakes.. depends on the year of bike, i.e. servo or non servo brakes.

The clutch hydraulics don't need to be broken into/opened up..
 
2006 gsa clutch replace

HI Spike, brilliant post, especially as i am having clutch problems with my GSA,

1. you mention a BMW REPROM Disc???
2. cut to the rebuild, are there any specialist tools/ diagnostics required to bleed the rear brakes ABS and or the clutch

any help with this would be absolutely fantastic

cheers Spike

Tony 07534499924
 
Sorry if this has been mentioned

The LHS upper gearbox bolt/dowel often seizes. Check out eBay gearboxes for how many have a broken lug. Unsurprisingly, mine was stuck. I tapped out the hole with a suitable size thread** then turned down a bolt to give a long peg on the front end. This will then go down to the bottom of the engine bolt hole and jack the gearbox away. I used a good copper paste on reassembly.

** Probably M12 but might have been M10 can't remember exactly.
 
thanks!

I just wanna say Thank you to the OP and all who've added helpful & constructive tips to this post.
I recently did the clutch on my 95k miles 2006 GS12 and this thread gave me the confidence to tackle it myself at home, took my time over it (a couple of weeks!) Done a few thousand miles since the change and all seems well.:beerjug:
 
I'm also in the process of a clutch change on a 04/2007 GS, and this thread has been very helpful. Unfortunately my engine & gearbox have been together for 14 years and blatantly refused to be separated!

To quote the Haynes Manual, "remove the 3 bolts and slide the gearbox backwards"

Jeeeeeeeeeeezzzz!!

Both dowels were seized solid. Used lots of heat, WD40, levers etc, but always conscious of not wanting to use too much force. In the end I made up a pair of widgets (one each side) to 'push' the box off. Slowly, and with more than a few expletives, it finally came off.

Possibly just a 5 minute job for the likes of Mikeyboy & Steptoe :D

I'm now on my way to completing, but I've also got a question on the brakes. Is it a straight forward bleed, on does the ABS also have to be bled, and do you need a diagnostics tool?
 

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This tear down is great - thank you. I shall be watching for the following

Stuck lugs - careful not to break webs. Noticed a gearbox on eBay with a metal steel weld repair and wondered how that happened? Now I know.

I’ll check the clutch for wear thickness.

Clutch rod replacement with felt

If anyone has some guidance on clutches and what to replace that will help. I’ve no idea what I need to replace. Friction plate only? Whole assembly? Are they matched? I’m sure I’ve seen £900 for complete clutch. Who should I be shopping with for a clutch? Motorworks? Anyone else?
 
I've done a couple of 1200 dry clutches: Parts alone were about £450 for the full kit last time did I did one. A dealer will charge around £1200.

I have recently rebuilt my 1200 gearbox due to noise in neutral (broken input shaft torque damper) and threw just a new friction plate in when reassembling although the old plate looked fine with minimal wear ( I had ridden about 30k on the full clutch kit since its last change due to glazing/slipping), but if replacing a clutch due to wear or slipping I would do the lot.

Rode 2200 miles last week down to Sisteron and back, shifted perfectly and quietly.
 
My clutch has just started to show signs of slipping 54k miles on a 57 plate. I've changed clutches on other bikes and so thought an easy afternoon job, then I read this thread. I thought Haynes only went up to 5 spanners, this seems to be an 8 spanner job. Taking the ABS apart for a clutch? Who the hell designed these bikes? As for cost? It's a clutch!!. Oh well I'm going to sell my body and bump off Grandma for the inheritance.
 
You do not have to take the abs apart .
I have completely removed the rear frame on bikes to get them blasted and powder coated without disturbing the brakes.
if it is your first time it might be worth taking a couple of photos of the routing of the brake pipes and wiring loom locations / routing.
 
Why don’t you invest in the BMW Workshop manual on CD. It’s as comprehensive as it comes, even down to telling you which cable ties to remove and refit. With detailed drawings and procedures which you can print off if need be.

Takes any guess work out of the job. Simples
 


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