Revs slow to come down.

Captain Black

Captain Black

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Anyone have any thoughts on these symptoms ?
My GSPD when It's hot seems to want to Increase It's tick over to about 15-1700 rmp. Not only that the rev's are really slow to come down. It's like It just want's to Increase It's rpm, but only seems to be when the motor Is good and hot.
Anyone had the same happen ?

Thanks
 
Captain Black said:
Anyone have any thoughts on these symptoms ?
My GSPD when It's hot seems to want to Increase It's tick over to about 15-1700 rmp. Not only that the rev's are really slow to come down. It's like It just want's to Increase It's rpm, but only seems to be when the motor Is good and hot.
Anyone had the same happen ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Sticky (ie frayed) throttle cable?

Mike :confused:
 
could be one of or a combination of a few things. frayed cable as mikeo says or, lack of freeplay at the twist grip, impropperly routed cables, intake airleak, timing a little out, sticky carb slide, choke not closing fully, unballanced carbs mixture /cable, solar flare, tick over set too high, the nut that connects the seat to the handle bars may need recalibrating, or the gremlins need flushing out :thumb2
 
Mine does that too since I overhauled the carbs. I suspect I have put an enrichener back together incorrectly. Or perhaps both?

Will investigate further when I have more time.
 
Check that the carb vacuum hoses are connected, in good condition or blanked off...

John
 
Had A look at the Carbs and the vacum blanking screws are In place on both. Where the cables leave the adjusters for both throttle and choke you can see some of the metal twist that protects the actual cable Is under strain a little, and does'nt go up straight, It kind of leans inboard. The throttle Is'nt that good as It's a little stiff at the twist grip (Cables perhaps)). Maybe an Idea to replace the throttle and choke cables to see If that helps, although having looked at Motorworks they seem to over a big choice of cables. Mine has two cable ends going Into the twist grip, and I assume a splitter of some sort under the tank ? Sods law I put 30 litres of fuel In the bike the other day so the tank Is staying put for the time being!
As for the nut behind the bar's that Is deffo 9/10ths of all my Issues with my PD!:D
 
Unscrew the idle screws a couple of turns each and adjust the mixture screws.. .
 
Steptoe said:
Unscrew the idle screws a couple of turns each and adjust the mixture screws.. .
Click to expand...

If I unscrew the idle screws on the top by two turns each, can I then screw In and count the turns to tight on the mixtures screws underneath near the vacum tubes, and then unscrew so many turns to set them to a factory setting ? Or Is that to simple, and are they all different on every carb when It comes to setting them up ?
 
Sticking weights in your bean can can also hold the revs high.

Just use the factory settings for the carbs as a guide line. Is your bike fitted with the recirculation system?
 
Rob Farmer said:
Sticking weights in your bean can can also hold the revs high.

Just use the factory settings for the carbs as a guide line. Is your bike fitted with the recirculation system?
Click to expand...

I could maybe take the bean can off and lube the weights with engine oil a little ? The bike does'nt feel that far off, It's only when the bloddy thing get's hot It seems to play up.
As for recirculation system?:nenau If you mean the pipes that are screwed Into the heads for U.S. emission laws, Ive got them on my R100R Classic, but not my PD.
I could also manually push up each choke arm on the carbs one at a time to see If the engine starts to bog down when I do. Just try to eliminate as much as possible. I think It's something of nothing but It's just finding It. Good learninf curve though which I'm happy about!:thumb
 
Had this problem with my 80 g/s, after all the checks mentioned didn't work, larger pilot jets solved the problem.
Jim.
 
my gs had the same problem and the cables and the twist grip with sticking so after i greezed them all up its working fine
 
I've got the same prob I'm working thru. My revs don't drop into corners making for no engine braking & a lot of back brake to control them.

I've got the choke off at the mo waiting to lap the housing & install a new gasket. I did recon the carbs a year or so ago so wondering if there is a bad abtch of choke gaskets. There is sufficient slack on the cable & a manual choke lever thing.

After i get the timing checked, which I think is alright cos it's ok when it's cold, I'm thinking it is the sticking weights in the beancan.
 
No need to take the bean can off to lube the bob weights - just lever the little tin lid off the side and spray a bit spray grease on the pivots and weights.

Just make certain the highly inflammable solvent in the spray grease has all evaporated before you try to start the bike - DAHIK.

WD40 and it clones are cleaners, not lubes, you want a heavy, sticky, lube.
 
Oh good If It's possible to lube the weights with the bean can In place I'll give that a go. Can you see the area that needs lubing or just wack a good spray In the hole?
Is spray grease ok, Or Is It a must to get the special stuff from Motobins ?
 
r100gser said:
check float levels, and valve clearences :rob
Click to expand...

Done the valves twenty twelve times. Fuel In float chambers seems ok, but not sure how deep the fuel should be. It only seems to happen when the bike Is nice and hot, from cold It fine until maybe I get stuck In traffic or after a good run.
Going camping Thursday to Sunday In the hills so I'll read my Haynes manual for some clues.:thumb
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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