Torque settings list

technotony007

technotony007

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hi ,
Does anyone have list of torque settings for all the boltings/ fixings on a r1200 gs adventure. I am currently on with the task of changing out all the boltings and fixings from the crappy zinc coated tork bolts to Allen head stainless steel.

if nobody has a list to hand maybe if we all central excel sheet sheet we could all add to this and make database, or a handy reference guide.

please let me know your thoughts and i will knock something up to start from.

regards

Tony :thumb2
 
I think that the tensile strenghth of stainless steel is generally less than that of carbon steel. I would be very reluctant to use stainless where the torque required is high also where shear stress is high, because again stainless has a lower shear tolerance. They might look pretty but in general stainless steel nuts and bolt are not as good as plated carbon steel IMO.
 
jwpzx9r said:
I think that the tensile strenghth of stainless steel is generally less than that of carbon steel. I would be very reluctant to use stainless where the torque required is high also where shear stress is high, because again stainless has a lower shear tolerance. They might look pretty but in general stainless steel nuts and bolt are not as good as plated carbon steel IMO.
Click to expand...

I ask because there's differing reasons for determining the required torque of a fitted bolt, and different potential problems if it's not correct. Definitely not a case of one size fits all..... eg. for "all" the M6 bolts on the R1200 engine the limit to the torque is most likely to be the fact that the bolts are inserted into cast aluminium and the thread size is fairly small - longer bolts usually get a higher torque loading than short bolts. In this case the material of the bolt is unlikely to be a determining factor. The other extreme though would be the bolts securing the brake calipers - the torque value is determined differently and the materials used do play a critical role.
Surely it would be wrong to assume that all stainless steel bolts should be torqued lower than plated steel simply because in a high torque situation the bolt is not up to the job? If the bolt material is not good enough to be torqued to the specified value, it's quite simply the wrong bolt!

Stu.
 
Beware galvanic corrosion when replacing screws and bolts with Stainless steel.

Try using Duralac, (evil yellow snot) on all points of contact between stainless and unprotected alloy/aluminium. Cheapest source is from Lotus ELise parts and accessory suppliers, most expensive is yacht chandlers.

It will reduce the amount of white crud that forms in the threads. This can seize the parts together.
 
bolt torques

You guys are dead right of the thoughts that torquing a zinc plated bolt and stainless A2 or A4 bolt. most of the zinc plated bolts extrnal to the engine and apart from front calper bolts are a standard 8.8 Grade. Most A2 -70 , and A4 - 80 bolts are an equivilent strenght. so i am led to believe. For the front caliper bolts, even though mine appear to be 8.8s , I would be inclined to go to go for grade 10.9's. But the stainless bolt grade equivilent is bumax which are very expensive. ( about £10 a bolt ) as these are used in the aircraft industry.
I am enquiring which factor to add to the stainless bolt over the zinc plate 8.8's and i will post a excel chart to show the differences .

P.S. i normally use , neversieze or copperslip on my threads to stop Bi Metallic Corroision.

thanks for the replies so far .

Regards

Tony :thumb :beerjug:
 
Bobbin-Man said:
I ask because there's differing reasons for determining the required torque of a fitted bolt, and different potential problems if it's not correct. Definitely not a case of one size fits all..... eg. for "all" the M6 bolts on the R1200 engine the limit to the torque is most likely to be the fact that the bolts are inserted into cast aluminium and the thread size is fairly small - longer bolts usually get a higher torque loading than short bolts. In this case the material of the bolt is unlikely to be a determining factor. The other extreme though would be the bolts securing the brake calipers - the torque value is determined differently and the materials used do play a critical role.
Surely it would be wrong to assume that all stainless steel bolts should be torqued lower than plated steel simply because in a high torque situation the bolt is not up to the job? If the bolt material is not good enough to be torqued to the specified value, it's quite simply the wrong bolt!

Stu.
Click to expand...

I don't think the bolts that are being referred to are requiring a high torque anyway so it may well be safe to use them in place of steel... but where a bolt is under a high torque bolt for bolt a stainless bolt is not going to be up to it unless you use high tensile bolts which are much more expensive.

"Surely it would be wrong to assume that all stainless steel bolts should be torqued lower than plated steel simply because in a high torque situation the bolt is not up to the job? "


No it would not unless as stated you use high tensile strenghth bolts. Essentially if a 6M bolt is required at high torque (and or shear stress) use a carbon steel bolt.

"If the bolt material is not good enough to be torqued to the specified value, it's quite simply the wrong bolt!"


Got it in one and answered the question! If a high torque is required, barring using expensive titanium or stainless high tensile bolts, use a cheap carbon steel one instead simples!:D
 
stainless bolts

after doing a bit of research with a couple of structural engineers. They advise that for the sizes we are using (i.e. M6,M8,M10) , we would use a a lesser torque of around 75% of the carbon steel. Thread of this size have fr stronger properties than normal Grade 8.8 bolt.
After discussing this at length i am of the opinion , i would just torque up to the values of the carbon steel bolts of Grade 8.8. But also exercise care if the material is of different properties , i.e. cast ally etc, then i would be inclined to stick at the 75% mark.

I have also put together the spreadsheet for all the different settings , and i will post it , for reference .:bounce1

regards

Tony
 
The excel torque list

I have attached the Pdf document of the torquing list for the R 1200 GS Adventure. I have cut and paste'd most from of the information from the link above. I have attached a couple of columns for stainless steels grades which are roughly 75% of the carbon steel torque value.

I have done as a reference only , to assist anyone carrying out the same changeover to stainless exercise. I dont take responsibily for these Values , as i the hope i have copied this info correctly. :eek:

I hope this helps anyone wanting to do the same excercise, if i dropped any bollox , please let me know and i will change it. or PM me and i can send you Excel spread sheet i made this from. I cannot figure out how to get the excel uploaded onto here... :confused:

I think this would be a good base to start from so if anyone wants to add anything extra to this the ycan , and benefit everyone.... :thumb2


Regards

Tony

:thumb2
 

Attachments

  • R1200GS Torque list..pdf
    89.3 KB · Views: 2,558
Good stuff Tony. A little reference that anyone who's bought TT gear will have seen is the table with comparative torque values. As they are side by side it's easy to see.
But hell, guys don't read instructions!
 
Holy thread revival Batman!

I was just looking at this because I wanted to find the torques for the bolts relating to taking my wheels off to get new tyres put on and thought I'd weigh in on the 'should I torque a stainless to the same as a carbon?' question. I'll just preface my answer by saying that I'm a mechanical engineer that uses both stainless and carbon steel fasteners on a regular basis...

A2 is 304 stainless and A4 is 316 stainless - I would recommend A4 if you want the better corrosion resistance. The -50/-60/-70/-80 after it (i.e. A4-80) specifies the minimum tensile strength of the bolt in 10th of a MPa, so a -80 is 800MPa which is the same as an 8.8 carbon bolt.

In terms of torques, for the most part these bolts will be going into aluminium female threads so whatever torque has been specified will likely be taking that into account so that you don't strip the female threads since they're so much softer than the bolt. So basically, in those situations you can just torque up to the normal recommended setting. As an example, if you torque an A4-80 M8 to ~20Nm it will provide over 1.5 tonne of clamping force but the bolt will only be stressed to approximately half of it's maximum possible stress. But the aluminium threads probably would have stripped by then. Lol.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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