Elshani to Kastoria
Today day is set up with quite simply the most phenomenal breakfast from Anita at Risto's guest house. Egg, Sausage, Salami, dressed tomatoes, Goat Cheese, Bread, Leek Pie, Turkish Coffee.. And a chocolate pastry..
I leave Risto's. I don't have any Macedonian currency, so I offer to head to the bank in the centre of Ohrid and return. 'Just to get money for us? Don't be silly, we'll take Euro, that's no problem'. All rather helpful.
They don't charge me for the wine the mineral waters, or the raki. 'That's on us, you are welcome.' Anita insists. 'Come back anytime'. I don't do a lot of plugging but
Risto's Guest House is heartily recommended for a quiet, pleasant, pretty stopover and a splendid Macedonian welcome..
I leave Elshani, away from the town of Orhid and head south down the lake side, a very nice and gentle pleasant ride. I head towards Sveti Neum and the monastery, passing the museum on the water, recreating how settlements used to be all around Lake Ohrid..
I get to the monastery; it is shaded. I am attacked by vicious gangs of mossies as soon as I stop. Crazy.. they're bleedin' ferocious, so I shift, and can't find a decent place to put the bike, so sod this, I'm off. Going back up towards the junction that will take me across to Lake Prespansko on the other side of the mountains I am flagged down by a biker and his pillion, I'd overtaken them on the way down. He's on a chinese cruiser and the gearbox is well and truly knackered. I can't help, but he's OK as he only lives at the North side of the lake. We chat for a bit and I'm on my way.
Back up to head across the pass. A beautiful view of stunning Lake Ohrid, climbing up and over.
Eastern Albania in the distance on the other side of the lake..
Let me tell you the ride up was something, a real joy.
On the way down the other side the road is poor and winding, but still fun. I leave the bike in second and cruise down, avoiding the pot holes and warped parts of the surface. I get a strange déjà vu feeling of freewheeling on a Raleigh Grifter as a kid.
Today is a day for music. To the curves of the pass I listen
Marco Fullone's 'No Ordinary Chill' which suits the pace and mood perfectly. I'm taking the time to smell the flowers, or at least smell my zesty fresh soapy Zumo at any rate. Plenty of stops, plenty of photos, punctuated with a liberal sprinkling of standing about.
I've made my way down and join up with the lakeside road now, heading round to join with the main road to Greece.
Pick a speed to suit your mood..
One country, many religions.. (That's a mosque in the background, picture not as clever as I thought it was)
As 'Luk' would have it... a petrol station that digs Mastercard
so I get to fill up before I get to Greece; a few bob saved..
I depart and head through Bitola to go South. We're in the flatlands and I float along nicely. More music: this time the
Happy Mondays' 'Loose Fit' stands out, just ending as I cruise into the border post. Splendid. It's a quick crossing with minimal fuss and two refreshingly cheery sets of border folks.
My brief experience of Macedonia is a really positive one and I certainly want to head back. The people seem more approachable and openly friendlier than their more Northerly Balkan neighbours. They are more laid back; it seems the men are less 'Macho'; the driving appears more relaxed. I wonder if this is to do with recent history and how FYROM peacefully slipped away from Yugoslavia, avoiding the war.
And so I cross from Macedonia to… Macedonia. Well, the Western Macedonia province of Greece. The Greeks dispute the country of Macedonia using the name, blocking the FYROM EU and NATO intentions. Relations are not exactly at their best.
I settle on a looping route that will take me towards Kastorias, but heading in from the east, with an inviting wobbly road featured on the map. It is a stunning ride in, virtually no traffic as I ride towards the hills I'm treated to
Nuyorican Soul's 'I am the Black Gold of the Sun'. I slow down and punch the air, what a day, what a ride
I stop in a spot where the sprinkler from the farm spills out on to the road for a quick cool down before attacking the road up..
The ride up is the gift that keeps on giving. Great roads, no traffic rewarding curves, great views.
Up in the hills I decide that the town taverna signs are too good to miss, so I stop for late lunch. A bit greedy considering breakfast, but I didn't eat last night, aside nothing more than an emergency jaffa cake. That's my excuse, anyway.
An itching for Greek Salad is scratched.. So fresh, out of this world..
.. More Chips than Erik Estrada and Larry Wilcox combined.. eek.
.. Oh yes, I'm on a roll now. (oh alright, on a stick then).
I am full at this point, certainly no space for the 'waffer theen' mint. This evening's suspension setting will be mostly set to 'comfort'
And so it is, for a fine run down to Kastoria, with picturesque evening views..
Into Kastoria for a look round.. An tempting local inn..
I find a very nice hotel just outside. Feet up. Tomorrow I shall pass through the Katafigio Agrias Zois Kastanofyto Melanthio Zevgostasio Niki Lagka Park. I'll make sure I've got it clearly marked on the map so I don't have to ask directions to it
And thanks for putting up with my indulgence of my own
K-Tel Classics Collection, too