Waxoyl

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OK, I've decided to coat the underside of the petrol tank with Waxoyl.

The tank is off, so I'vewire brushed / scraped loose rust of bits of the frame.

Some of the metalwork that sits in front of the servo looks rusty. I want to cover this with Waxoyl, it looks like a pressed together sheet metal bit. I'm a little concerned that whatever is inside there, may not appreciate having it's tin metal covering sprayed with waxoyl and perhaps making it run hot.

thoughts anyone?
 
If you've got actual rust and bare metal, I'd wire brush / green pad the rust off and paint it before coating with anything. Hammerite satin black is a pretty good match for existing frame paint - doesn't have to be a pretty job under the tank.

Then I'd lather the lot with ACF50 - proven to work and is safe to spray directly on electrics. It won't dry to a thick grunge like waxoyl and cause problems with heat build up on delicate electrics etc. It's also much nicer to deal with if / when you have to work on stuff you've coated. Waxoyl is fine for land rover chassis but I'm not sure it's really the thing for bikes?...

Just my 2p.
 
IMHO I think that the engine heat will melt the waxoyl. It to run everywhere and leave what what you want protected, unprotected. Personally I'd go down the ACF 50 route.

Mike
 
I covered the underside of my tank with waxoyl years ago and it means that the filter access flange bolts do not seize. Wouldn't cover the wiring and battery motronic servo box though. :)
 
OK, I've decided to coat the underside of the petrol tank with Waxoyl.

The tank is off, so I'vewire brushed / scraped loose rust of bits of the frame.

Some of the metalwork that sits in front of the servo looks rusty. I want to cover this with Waxoyl, it looks like a pressed together sheet metal bit. I'm a little concerned that whatever is inside there, may not appreciate having it's tin metal covering sprayed with waxoyl and perhaps making it run hot.

thoughts anyone?

waxoyl will protect against corrosion, my 2000 1150gs 170,000 mls all year round riding, in autumn I spray / paint all exposed parts, no corrosion. ACF50 is not as good when it comes to spokes and engine front cover it will wash off when exposed to high speed riding in salt and rain soaked roads DAMHIK. Don't believe me, leave waxoyl on an exposed part and ACF50 I bet that the waxoyl will be stuck like shit to a blanket and the ACF50 will be gone. The only problem with waxoyl is its a pig to remove in spring.
 
waxoyl will protect against corrosion, my 2000 1150gs 170,000 mls all year round riding, in autumn I spray / paint all exposed parts, no corrosion. ACF50 is not as good when it comes to spokes and engine front cover it will wash off when exposed to high speed riding in salt and rain soaked roads DAMHIK. Don't believe me, leave waxoyl on an exposed part and ACF50 I bet that the waxoyl will be stuck like shit to a blanket and the ACF50 will be gone. The only problem with waxoyl is its a pig to remove in spring.

Exactly.
If you want to ever remove it, waxoyl isn't the product to use. I'd also say that it isn't the best thing on a bike in any location. It's designed for use on hollow chassis sections etc on cars, not on motorbikes. ACF50 was developed for use on aircraft living on carrier decks - it should cope with a bike on winter roads :nenau

I've run my 1100 through 5 winters using ACF and it's works really well. I use ACF50 grease diluted with petrol (to make it brushable - the petrol evaporates off leaving the just the grease) on my wheels and fork sliders over winter and SDOC the whole lot off on the spring (with a very light ACF on most of the bike for the summer). Every time I take the tank off, I give everything a quick spray of ACF which never gets washed off as no one can see it.
 
I'm with Matts thoughts on this one, have you not considered that Waxoil is also very flammable.
 
Update.

Wire brushed rust. Kurust brushed on, turned a nice shade of black. Now painted affected areas with black smoothrite.

Isn't Waxoyl flammable until the thinning agent evaporates away?

Thanks for the advice
 
Waxoyled chassis members are notorious for catching fire when being welded. As the battery is under the tank already and a short is not unlike welding, I'd stick to ACF50.
 
Drowned the servo gubbins / battery box / etc, with ACF50. Bike out on the road now, on the sidestand, excess ACF50 dripping off bike.

Think I'll follow what Mzokk said and still do the underside of the tank.
 
Difference is that with the ACF50 the layer is microscopic. Less to burn:D
 
Yep, and a lot of the petrol and distillates are there as solvent to get it where you want and it then evaporates. Somehow I doubt that the aircraft industry would be too happy if their corrosion inhibitor wrapped everything in a flammable blanket :eek
 
On that subject.

Waxoyled chassis members are notorious for catching fire when being welded. As the battery is under the tank already and a short is not unlike welding, I'd stick to ACF50.

A long time ago.
Not waxoyl but the underseal once used on Vauxhall cars. Rear wheel drive Cavalier to be precise.
I have a friend used to have a car breakers yard. He had 8 of them in all burned to a cinder, all from exhaust fitters yards.

One spurious exhaust manufacturer had made their exhausts slightly out, and they fouled the bodywork at the tail end.
No problem: Light the oxy acelylene, and heat the tailpipe slightly to bend it a little.
Whoosh! car gone.

Myke
 
Done the underside of the tank last night, I'll update when the bike burns.:D :blast
 
I have to say that once the stuff has dried, it's less messy than ACF50. It doesn't look too bad if applied with a brush, I've done all the mainstands on my bikes now.:D
 
As Mike says Waxoyl melts when hot.

I treated a VW Camper a few years ago and nine years after I'd done it the stuff used to drip out of the box-sections when parked in the sun.

Didn't rust though :rolleyes:
 


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