2013/2014 LC gear shift Linkages

smithdt

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1 - Does anyone know if these linkages ( rod ends) are the same as used in previous Models?


2 - do the male studs screw into the gear lever and the part that attaches to the gearbox shaft ( sorry, can't think what to call it) OR are they pressed in?

3 - if they screw In...is the thread on the male stud the same size as the thread in the female body of the linkage?

Cheers
 
The lc has one left hand thread and one right hand thread. The old model had 2 right hand thread.

The ends. (One twin cam, one LC)
ImageUploadedByTapatalk HD1380612037.038028.jpg
Push on and off the stud and there is a small retain clip that pushes in to hold in position, so to remove pull clip off than push the end off the ball and same to refit.

The studs in the gear lever + stud in arm on gear shaft, screw in .

No 3, is yes .


What ya doing !
 
How do I no !
ImageUploadedByTapatalk HD1380612646.204934.jpg
Quickshifter replaces threaded linkage but both ends are right hand threads, and i had a old linkage from my Twin cam, so replace the left with a right thread end.
 
DING-DONG said:
How do I no !
View attachment 241110
Quickshifter replaces threaded linkage but both ends are right hand threads, and i had a old linkage from my Twin cam, so replace the left with a right thread end.
Click to expand...

G'day Ding.

Doing the same as you mate. Quick shifter arrived a few weeks ago and bike arrives mid November.

I'm keen to get it up and running ASAP but I'll be away from home for the 1st 1000 k's so I'm Trying to get everything ready before I pick it up so I can install it while I'm away.

Looked at sourcing a right hand rodend from eBay but now looking at replacing both with a different (maintenance free) option.

The male & female threads on the transducer unit are 3/8" UNC. I had this measured at a local engineering company, but it surprised me a bit.. I was expecting a metric thread.

As long as the male stud thread is the same as the female body It should be ok.

So how is yours running now?
Back from the dealer yet?
 
Ding Dong, I'm thinking of fitting a quickshifter, what make is yours and how easy was it to fit?

Cheers Mark
 
Retraction

smithdt said:
G'day Ding.

Doing the same as you mate. Quick shifter arrived a few weeks ago and bike arrives mid November.

I'm keen to get it up and running ASAP but I'll be away from home for the 1st 1000 k's so I'm Trying to get everything ready before I pick it up so I can install it while I'm away.

Looked at sourcing a right hand rodend from eBay but now looking at replacing both with a different (maintenance free) option.

The male & female threads on the transducer unit are 3/8" UNC. I had this measured at a local engineering company, but it surprised me a bit.. I was expecting a metric thread.

As long as the male stud thread is the same as the female body It should be ok.

So how is yours running now?
Back from the dealer yet?
Click to expand...

Retraction.... the threads are NOT 3/8" UNC... seems the local company who measured mine made a rookie mistake.:(

Supplier of pressure sensor
( http://www.translogicuk.com/quickshifters.php ) confirmed M6 for both male and female. They also advised that the female thread is both RH & LH.


cheers
 
Hi fella's yeah the kit is the translogic kit, now at the time they did not do a R1200GS Lc option, so my kit had a both right hand threads its no biggie you just need a right threaded end as seen in my pics, if you speak to David the owner at translogic he now offers a specific Lc option and the correct wiring procedure from the input i gave to him regarding the fitting.

Ask him for the part no's and than ring HPS, there the retailers for tanslogic speak to Giles or Ben say Dave (that's me) gave you there details and ask if they can do you some discount !

3/8" unc wtf was they was thinking its not rocket science.

Smithdt, my bike ain't coming back from the dealers bro its probably going in the crusher, BMW have agreed to give me a Brand new 2014 bike with all the extras with no additional costs to pay and £1000 as a gesture of goodwill for my inconvenience it caused me. I removed all my extras i fitted and my Q-shifter and ill fit them on my new bike.

Mark, the kit is straight forward if your competent in tinkering, feel free to pm with any questions.
 
DING-DONG said:
...at the time they did not do a R1200GS Lc option, so my kit had a both right hand threads...
Click to expand...

From Dave's email I think the actual sensor unit has RH male thread and RH/LH female thread...I don't have the actual unit with me at the moment (I left it at work) so I can't look at it to see how they actually achieve this. But if true, then I won't need to buy an extra RD threaded Rod End.

Dave also mentioned that it doesn't matter what direction the sensor unit faces.. The way yours was set up looks better than the instruction booklet, because the sensor cable comes straight out of the sensor body towards the gear shaft

3/8" unc wtf was they was thinking its not rocket science.
Click to expand...
...exactly !!:nenau


Smithdt, my bike ain't coming back from the dealers bro its probably going in the crusher, BMW have agreed to give me a Brand new 2014 bike with all the extras with no additional costs to pay and £1000 as a gesture of goodwill for my inconvenience it caused me. I removed all my extras i fitted and my Q-shifter and ill fit them on my new bike.
Click to expand...

Good result there Ding :thumb2

... feel free to pm with any questions.
Click to expand...

I can't PM anybody in here, can I send you an email ? if OK, email me and I'll reply [email protected]


Cheers
David
 
Pretty trick if they have done rh/lh female thread end and ill be impressed, If not and its rh what I used was the a m6 stainless bolt just cut the tread off and trimmed the length to what I required and as you can see once its fitted there ain't much room between the tie rod and body, its about flush.

Yes the body can be fitted in any direction, once you have fitted everything and its test time, the standard kill time is set at 66ms I set mine at 68ms this felt much better.
 
DING-DONG said:
Pretty trick if they have done rh/lh female thread end and ill be impressed, If not and its rh what I used was the a m6 stainless bolt just cut the tread off and trimmed the length to what I required and as you can see once its fitted there ain't much room between the tie rod and body, its about flush.

Yes the body can be fitted in any direction, once you have fitted everything and its test time, the standard kill time is set at 66ms I set mine at 68ms this felt much better.
Click to expand...

Good info on the kill time. Cheers

Did you take many pics of the wires you tapped into?
I'm going to be away from the man cave when do my install so I'm looking for as much info as I can get.
 
smithdt said:
Good info on the kill time. Cheers

Did you take many pics of the wires you tapped into?
I'm going to be away from the man cave when do my install so I'm looking for as much info as I can get.
Click to expand...

Sorry i never took any pics, i really did not think this would be a common mod.

Regarding wiring you have 2 options the plug on the throttle bodies that has 2 wires, 1 wire is positive when ignition on, the other is interrupt wire, this interrupt wire is what you tap into so you can either take the shifter loom down to the plug and connect into the wire there. My option and ill be doing the same again very soon is strip down .
ImageUploadedByTapatalk HD1381079859.090446.jpg
Take the panels off and the tank and you can access the loom, trace the wires make a soldered connection into the wires for both throttle bodies and tape into loom so looks factory. Its really easy peasy to strip this bike and once done it makes a great learning curve for future strip downs when cleaning, i can strip the panels, tank, air box off in about 15 mins.

Dave.
 
Airbox removal you will need the correct pliers to remove the c-clamps from the boots that attach airbox - throttle bodies.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk HD1381080482.096804.jpg
But you should not need to remove the airbox just the tank to access the loom.
 
DING-DONG said:
Airbox removal you will need the correct pliers to remove the c-clamps from the boots that attach airbox - throttle bodies.
...
But you should not need to remove the airbox just the tank to access the loom.
Click to expand...

Dave,

Thanks for the extra info. Should be doable.

What are the correct pliers? Needle nose?

Also, where did you tap into the clutch overide wire?

Cheers
David
 
smithdt said:
Dave,

Thanks for the extra info. Should be doable.

What are the correct pliers? Needle nose?

Also, where did you tap into the clutch overide wire?

Cheers
David
Click to expand...

Hose pliers.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk HD1381178812.563817.jpg

Clutch wire, right it goes to the earth on the switch located in the clutch lever, but beware there are 2 switches in the clutch lever, if you listern you should be able to hear them click, 1st one within 5mm of pulling lever in and the 2nd one about half way thro the pull, so the wire you want is a black wire i think there is 2 back wires use a tester and find the one that activates within the 1st pull. I followed the loom and than tapped into it under the tank so not to be seen.

The quickshifter linkage should look like this once done.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk HD1381179273.692773.jpg
 
HI Pistole

Sorry for delay with this reply, wasn't sure if you asking me a or Ding...

I haven't installed mine yet. Just completed the Fuze Box and powered tank bag install and was going to do the QS next...BUT I'm a bit nervous about the wiring (to the injectors and Clutch) - I'm hoping Ding reads this ( i can't send PM's) so I can ask him to take detailed notes and pics when he re-installs his QS into his new LC....:)
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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