K1100R

Ogmios said:

Gouge on spoke;

result of trying to ride away with a 'U' lock on.

~~
DAMHIK

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That was my thought too...

Best thing on the telly this

This is the low point in these jobs, endless rubbing, scraping, brushing etc. It's tedious and mind-numbing with very little to show for all the effort.

The wheels, once the dirt is removed, need more work than first appeared. I began by removing the accumulated rubber and lubricant from the rims:







Then there's nothing for it but hours (literally) of rubbing down by hand. I used 80 grit paper dry to begin with. This really coarse grit cuts through the paint without too much effort. You have to be careful not to use too much pressure or it will leave deep cuts inn something as soft as aluminium.

The rear wheel has the classic signs of someone having tried to get it out past the ABS sensor ring on the disc (and a nice deep graze):



To save the skin on my fingertips and to make it easier to get into the nooks, I square the ends of an ice-lolly stick (always worth keeping some in the garage as they have many uses), wrap the paper around it and this lets you get into the corners etc:



When the paper loses its effect just slide the paper to the other end of the stick:



Here's another tip, begin with the most difficult areas. That way when you're tired and pissed-off rubbing down, by the time you've got to the easier bits it's not such a grind:



The pitting where the paint has chipped becomes more visible with the rubbing down:



Eventually the first rubbing down is done:



Then its more rubbing down, this time with 400 grit paper used wet (add a little soap to the water and the paper will be less prone to clogging).

Once all the surfaces have been dried and wiped clean (tissue paper and thinners), the first primer coat can go on. I started by getting the primer into the awkward places and allowing it to dry before doing the rest:



A light first coat followed:



Then some hours later a second heavier primer coat. This was then flatted with 1200 grit paper dry. I prefer to use it dry as primer is porous.

Then the first light colour coat can go on once the surface has been cleaned of any dust etc. The same method, start in the recesses, let that dry and then do the whole thing:



Once the first colour coat is cured, rubbed down again (this time wet), dried off I can see some of the pitting is still visible:





Any blemishes are much easier to spot once the colour coat is on and they can be addressed with a combination of more rubbing down and stopper.

Then another colour coat (thin) as a guide coat to show up imperfections. That's the current position; both wheels are currently sitting with the imperfections filled. Once it has bonded fully I'll go back to rubbing down again.


I've said it before, the least attractive aspect of the K-Series Brick is the water/oil pump and sump. BMW addressed this on some bikes by enclosing the area in the fairing. With the K100RS SE and the K100RS 16 valve they offered a bellypan (at not inconsiderable cost).

They don't often come up for sale and when they do the prices reflect their relative scarcity. Often the mounting frame has rotted away because it's out of sight and out of mind. Both are still available new from BMW and at least one other source but not cheap.

Recently I made an offer on one (unreasonably priced) on ebay (offer declined but more than it's currently been re-listed at), missed one that went at a reasonable price, then last week spotted one that included the mounting frame and had a start made on preparation. I snapped it up for a decent price. When it arrived I was pleasantly surprised to see that it included a sump cover too!



The frame has been cleaned and powder coated after a small repair in one corner:



I don't know if I trust what's been done before it was powder coated. I may strip it and see for myself.

The bellypan itself didn't look bad but primer can cover a multitude of sins (it wasn't done particularly well either) so I've begun rubbing it down (more rubbing down! I'm tempted to go and do a few burglaries as I have no fingerprints at present).





Before rubbing it down, I had to do something about the mesh grille. On these it's bonded in with some kind of mastic 'sticky'. The mesh has been over-painted with the primer but it's obviously corroded underneath. I warmed the mastic and hacked it away:





Then removed the remaining 'sticky' from the aperture:



I can either re-bond the grille in place once it's been cleaned and painted or I can use castle-nut clips and stainless button-head screws through body of the bellypan:



It will need some tabs to extend the mesh at the fixing points or if I can persuade him, Mark (of Cymarc fame on here) may be able to produce an alternative with the extensions for the castle-nut clips in place.

So, on with the rubbing down of the primer. Sure enough there are some areas that need a skim of stopper:





I'm in the process of stoppering the gouges and scratches.

That's about it for now. I won't bore you with the cleaning of the little bits of various brackets. These and the injector rail will get a coat of black paint before long.

coming along nicely

Thanks for the update Mike


Please don't leave it so long next time

You're attention to detail is astounding to me.

Been side-tracked a little lately but I have been working on it at times, mainly getting the wheels ready for the new tyres.

All the little blemishes that these wheels have collected over the years have been filled and flatted back. That means that sometimes the new primer and paint is rubbed right through:



So the primer - flatting - painting - flatting process is repeated until the final colour coat is okay-ish, then it's on with the clear-coat. That's where I'm at with both wheels ready for a cutting back and polish before the new rubber goes on:



I've also been attacking other parts like the forward exhaust heat shield - degreased and ready for rubbing down:



Other parts include the brackets for the shield, the injector rail, mudguard straps, spark plug cover, swing-out lifting handle and the rear brake reservoir clip:



The heat shield design is different to the K1 and K100RS 16v in that the two brackets were riveted on, at some stage BMW changed them to screw and nuts, possibly owing to fractures in the shield or rivets vibrating loose. I'm guessing that's the reason but the newer arrangement is a bit OTT. There are rubber grommets with a steel sleeve in the centre plus washers either side. When I removed this one from the bike the screws had been replaced with Stainless Bolts that were much too long. I've raided my supplies for some shorter mushroom headed screws:





I nearly forgot to remove the masking from the injector rail cups (where the top of the injectors sit).



That would have been embarrassing when it came to start up time.

So next on the list of bits to sort out is this:



It was actually quite nice to pick up something other than a scraper or a piece of grit-paper for a change. Of the main-stand swivel pins, one was dry and one had some grease still clinging on in there. The circlip came away easily and so did the grease nipples once they were cleaned. On the 'dry' end the nipple was blocked completely solid so that explained the lack of lubricant.

Normally I find that plenty of heat on the counter-sunk screws will allow a normal ratchet drive and Allen socket do the job but in this case I had to resort of a breaker-bar on one side.

Predictably, the pivot pin on that side didn't want to come out. It wasn't seized to the stand, it was seized solid in the sub-frame. With the other side out there was enough play to get a junior hacksaw in between and cut through the pivot pin:



The bit left 'welded' to the sub-frame probably will drill out but I have a spare sub-frame so I'll use that one for this re-build and just sling this one out.



Well so much for using some tools, this pile of bits need scraping and rubbing down so that's what I'll be doing again for the next few days:





I have a reasonably good spare side-stand:



Trouble is that I think that it might be from a 2-valve bike and they are very slightly different. The difference is enough to stop the stand parking in the correct place when it's retracted. I won't know for certain until it and the exhaust are back on the bike so I'll clean up the one that has come off just in case.

I've an order for bits and pieces in with Ocean BMW, a list yet to be sent to Motorworks and another for Motobins. I find that some parts are cheaper from some sources by a considerable margin. I may have to wait until next month before my finances can be stretched further. At least in the meantime I have plenty to keep me occupied.

Apologies to my loyal reader for the delay.

Mr K said:

You're attention to detail is astounding to me.

Click to expand...

bump as Mr K says , great stuff hoping for an update soon

cant wait to see the finished bike:

Only just seen this thread..

Steptoe said:

Only just seen this thread..

Click to expand...

Good innit.
Mike,
I learn a lot from your restoration projects.
Your writing style is easy to follow and understand.
Thus - helps me to understand a lot about my own 'K'.
I'll often look at one of your threads before asking a potentially dumb and time wasting question elsewhere.

Thanks.

I think that the centre stand is probably the worst condition one that I've attempted to clean up. It's heavily pitted with corrosion and the inevitable stone chips.

I began by setting about it with a scraper to get rid of the accumulated mud, rust and the odd flake of the original coating. The side-stand got the same treatment:



Then it was time spent with wire brushes in drills and emery cloth to get to bare (pitted) metal:



I used emery wheels to remove some of the pitting and then when I'd got as near a decent surface as possible, I gave all the parts a thick coat of enamel primer, followed by a heavy coat of the satin enamel. Once cured, I then hand sanded the parts, This meant going back to bare metal on much of the surface, leaving the paint to fill the imperfections. They're far from perfect but better than they looked:





The finished RS wheels have been shod with new Metzeler rubber and have been collecting dust for a little while now.



Talking of dust, the work on the stands meant that I had to take a day out to strip everything off the shelves to clean-up all the dust that flew everywhere. That's despite scraping most of it off before set about them with the wire brushes.

The stands took so long that in between cleaning and coats of paint, I set about removing the clutch.

As per usual, what, if any, anti-seize prevention had been used on the cover-plate locating dowels had long ago stopped doing its job. It took a fair bit of persuasion to release it but it gave up in the end.

There's a lot of old friction plate material stuck to oil/grease in there:



The source of the oil was soon confirmed:



The shaft O-ring had hardened and was allowing engine oil past.



I knew from the lack of the tell-tale smell that the leak was engine oil and I've had placed a bet on it being the O-ring. The output-shaft seal looks okay but it will be replaced anyway (fair bit of friction plate material gathered in the bell-housing):





The thrust washer just slid aside:



With the clutch out there was no reason not to lower the engine:



Then onto the floor for now:



Once I've made space, the frame, complete with steering and forks, can be rolled off the lift and I'll put the engine back onto it so that I can raise it up to work at a comfortable height.

First job will be to remove what's left of the snapped exhaust stud, then the outer casings can be cleaned. I may paint the bare casings with enamel silver to resist the inevitable furring up again.

Some nice work there and good pictures.

The centre stand was in a similar condition on my R1100gs so did a similar job to you on it and put it back on with new mounts and seals and have found that it does not raise properly on the spring. I took it off as it was seized solid.

I can only assume its bent so will need to take it off again and try and straighten it without damaging the paint.....

I've found a stand was bent before now:



I just put it in the vice, used a scaffold pole and bent it back. The paint did suffer a bit but it's easy enough to repair.

Thanks Mike - that was my plan too. I'll let you know how I get on

With that engine out i'd replace the temperature sender on the coolant elbow. It's a fecker to replace when everything is back in place.

They seem to be prone to "playing up" on the K1100 models, which causes a higher fuel consumption and in extreme cases the bike cutting out at certain temperatures.

Never had any go wrong on the K75/100 models

I've been reading about that Neil. Quite a few owners chasing fuel pump, injection, hall sensors only to find that it was the temp sender. It's on my shopping list.

You wouldn't know a source for the TB adjuster screws? BMW don't list them separately and I'm buggered if I'm going to buy new TBs just for a couple of screws.

If you can measure one of those screws, or post me one and I'll measure it, I'm pretty sure I could find some for you.

Mike, It puzzles me why you've not bought/made a small blasting cabinet for yourself?

They're relatively cheap and it seems that one would save you an awful lot of that laborious cleaning process.....or is that something you actually enjoy

A brand new Sealey one is only 140 quid and it's desktop sized



EDIT...I've just seen a mini Sealey one, portable, for 40 quid.......probably no good for a lot of things you do, but for nadgery LITTLE parts, seems idea;

Fannykins!! are you having a Giraffe ???

Mike would never let anything that could get grit or dust anywhere near his beloved bikes or his Garage...

He'd rather wear his fingers to the bone polishing first..