K1100R

After much scraping and rubbing down, I removed the sump plate and cleaned the mating surfaces before putting it back dry using a couple of old screws to hold it in position. Then it was out with the old oil sight glass, cut a piece of card to mask the hole, mask the oil and temperature senders plus a bit of masking just to stop too much paint getting onto the areas that are yet to be sorted.

On with the paint:

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Although my garage is dry and relatively warm, paint does take a while longer to cure fully at this time of year so it was a case of being patient and then I could whip off the sump plate to remove any paint that might have leached:

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Same goes for the sump plate and oil filter access plate:

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Remembering to remove the oil sight glass aperture masking:

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I rummaged through my box of spares to find:

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It has been all over with me in my tool roll for years. It's about time that it earned its keep! A wipe with rubber paste to help ease it into place, then a 30mm socket makes a perfect drift and its in:

K1100LT%20%28353%29-L.jpg


A new oil filter fitted, then the mating surface of the sump was given a bead of Three-Bond and the plate screwed back down with stainless fasteners (plenty of Alu-slip), before being torqued down.

K1100LT%20%28354%29-XL.jpg


Finally, the oil filter access cover went back on with a new O-ring and the drain plug a new crush washer (both of which were kindly supplied by Steptoe when he had a clear-out of his stock room, Cheers Neil :thumb2).

K1100LT%20%28355%29-XL.jpg


The excess Three-Bond will be trimmed off after it's had twenty-four hours to set fully.

Next job is the bell-housing painting.
 
So, it was time to mask and paint the bell-housing. I've used Halfords heat resistant Aluminium silver enamel this time (colour coat on, awaiting the clear coat):

K1100LT%20%28357%29-L.jpg


While the engine is on its nose, I decided that it would make fitting the new output shaft seal easier. The old seal on the left and the new pattern one:

K1100LT%20%28358%29-L.jpg


With it oiled-up, I pressed it in a little way by hand. Just enough to start it and to make certain that it was going in square. Then, using the old, single use retaining nut and the collar, I used the clutch carrier to press the seal home:

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The shoulder on the rear of the clutch carrier is almost a perfect match for the seal but rather than wind the nut a few turns and have to check that the seal is flush, something between the clutch carrier that is a wider diameter than the seal, will ensure that it seats properly first time. Fortunately, the rear wheel spacer is perfect for this:

K1100LT%20%28361%29-L.jpg


Done:

K1100LT%20%28362%29-L.jpg


Then it was a case of fitting the new O-ring, the collar and the new retaining nut. The nut is then tightened to 140 Nm to seat the O-ring, loosened off completely and then tightened to between 50 and 100 Nm. I chose to split the difference and set my wrench to 75 Nm.

K1100LT%20%28363%29-L.jpg


I'm awaiting a new friction plate and will finish the clutch re-fit once it arrives. In the meantime, the engine is right side up and on the beam jack so that I can raise it when I re-fit the transmission.

K1100LT%20%28365%29-L.jpg


There's still a little cleaning to do on the top of the block. A few areas that I couldn't access properly when it was on its side. For that reason the crank, cam and cam chain covers are staying on until I can be sure that no crap can find its way into the oily bits.
 
Mike, when fitting the new style oil seal, BMW issued a bulletin advising that it should be fitted leaving it 1.0mm proud.
I've seen them fitted both flush and proud, both without problems.
 
Cheers. I've read that somewhere. The photo isn't clear but it is proud. I don't know if it's a millimetre though, probably a little less. :thumb2
 
I've spent a bit of time, now that the paint has had plenty of time to cure properly, cutting back and polishing the frame.

First thing though, I used some short mushroom head screws to blank-off the fairing spider mounting holes in the headstock:

K1100LT%20%28366%29-XL.jpg


Then things like the swing-out lifting handle and the seat/helmet lock reassembled and fitted:

K1100LT%20%28367%29-L.jpg


The cam and crankcase covers came off for tidying up. Then the timing chain cover presented me with a problem, the ignition trigger rotor didn't want to pop off:

K1100LT%20%28369%29-XL.jpg


The corrosion was caused by a broken screw on the cover plate letting moisture into the housing and has allowed the locating pin to corrode. Much scraping of rust and squirting with shock-unlock, then cautious tapping forward of the timing cover did the trick.

It's only held by the single dowel pin once the three screws are out. The plate behind is held by the same screws and dowel so tapping the cover forward and away from the block free'd it.

K1100LT%20%28370%29-L.jpg


This has been my first opportunity to have a good look at the cams, crank and timing chain to check for wear or damage. All seems to be fine.

Before I start cleaning and painting the covers I need to get the broken screw out:

K1100LT%20%28372%29-L.jpg


I have a new seal for the timing chain/ignition trigger drive so this one was popped out:

K1100LT%20%28371%29-L.jpg


Last time I replaced one of these seals it was with the cover in place and it was a bugger to get it to start square. This time I'll be able to work with the cover flat on the bench.
 
coming along nicely Mike :thumb2
Thanks Chad. It's at that stage where it's tempting to rush the remaining jobs so as to see it starting to go back together.
 
Well I've had to indulge in a little bit of reassembly therapy.

First job remove the gaffa tape covering the intake ports:

K1100LT%20%28373%29-XL.jpg


Then give the surfaces a good clean and run a tap down the threads:

K1100LT%20%28374%29-XL.jpg


Next, refit the temperature sensor tower. A new O-ring, a smear of Three-Bond to fix the O-ring and some Loctite 243 for the screws:

K1100LT%20%28375%29-L.jpg


Then screw it down (only 9 Nm);

K1100LT%20%28376%29-L.jpg


The throttle body manifolds are next to go on. Again, new O-rings and I've replaced the screws with stainless:

K1100LT%20%28377%29-L.jpg


A squirt of Three-Bond in the O-ring recess:

K1100LT%20%28378%29-L.jpg


Then smear the excess over the face of the mating surface:

K1100LT%20%28379%29-L.jpg


Obviously, the stainless screws have a coating of Alu-Slip anti-seize. All back (again only 9 Nm for the screws) and new intermediate rubbers:

K1100LT%20%28380%29-L.jpg


The injector rail can then be reassembled (here with the old O-rings on the injectors, new ones in the bag):

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The injector rail mounting bushes were treated with Gummi Pflege. They're a lot easier to fit if you push the metal insert out:

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I struggled with these on another bike not realising at first that the metal sleeve isn't bonded into the bush.

K1100LT%20%28383%29-L.jpg


Injectors with new O-rings fitted, back in the rail and the clips replaced:

K1100LT%20%28384%29-L.jpg


Then they slip nicely back in with the Gummi Pflege acting as a lubricant (red rubber grease would do the same but the Gummi Pflege will be absorbed by the rubber and help keep the O-rings from hardening):

K1100LT%20%28385%29-L.jpg


Must resist further reassembly until the engine covers are at least prepared for painting.
 
Just remember Phil, these things are a bit like Meccano toys - ideal for amateur bodgers like me but not much of a challenge to anyone with real abilities.
 
"Amateur bodger"! Wish I had your patience and skill Mike. (Wouldn't mind the workshop too,:D)
 
Thanks chaps but I'm riding on the shoulder's of giants such as St. Eptoe of SW3. :bow

The only skills I have (if that's the right word) is the ability to read books and the interweb. Patience I learned in an earlier life and in the same life I was forced to pay attention to detail. Who'd have ever thought that polishing the brass backs of buttons that no-one ever saw would one day transfer to this sort of thing? :D
 
nice job mike. i have got a k75 that wants restoring i can not drive at the moment but i hope to one day.john
 
Cheers John. I'm not sure that I could ride very far at the moment but doing this is a good alternative.
 
I popped the throttle bodies and airbox back on. It seemed a better way to keep crap out of the intakes than bits of paper towel stuffed in them:

K1100LT%20%28386%29-L.jpg


It's so much easier to connect things like the crankcase breather pipe when it's like this:

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Plus the timing chain case breather:

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So there's no excuse but to get on with the various engine covers. Those with bare ali highlights, I first set about polishing the highlights. It's easier to then remove masking or paint from a smooth polished surface later. Good old grit blocks (the bit up to the 'W' is done):

K1100LT%20%28390%29-L.jpg


Then the paint can be flatted/keyed with 400 grit paper followed by a wash and degrease:

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Once dry and any masking done, they have a swift, light squirt of satin black:

K1100LT%20%28391%29-L.jpg


Then the coats are built-up:

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The front covers done, just need to fully harden and then they can have a buff with polish:

K1100LT%20%28398%29-L.jpg


In between coats of paint I decided that it was time to fit the replacement bearing and seal to the final drive. First job was to pop the crown wheel into the freezer for an hour, then out with the old pan and heat the new bearing:

K1100LT%20%28393%29-L.jpg


The chilled crown wheel resting in the vice ready for the toasty bearing:

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The toasty bearing slips over with a satisfying sizzle. It needed just a light tapping fully home (tapping on the inner of the race only).

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The new seal pressed in:

K1100LT%20%28396%29-L.jpg


Then the bearing (and shims) can go into the housing and the cover screwed and torqued down with a new O-ring in this case.

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A nice new clutch friction plate arrived yesterday morning so that means that I can get on with more reassembly:

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The gearbox input shaft splines got a final clean and lubed with Optimol TA paste:

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Then the gearbox can go back on (much easier when you don't have to slip it between the rear frame mountings):

K1100LT%20%28404%29-XL.jpg


The six screws are surprising low torque settings (16 Nm). Anyway, now I can add an old scissor jack under the gearbox and at a few turns at a time, raise both engine and gearbox:

K1100LT%20%28405%29-XL.jpg


To re-fit the stands:

K1100LT%20%28406%29-L.jpg


That'll do for now.
 
Thanks for the nice comments. This tart-up is a useful distraction at the moment.

So with the gearbox back on, it's time to replace the clutch pushrod plus spring and fit the new cover boot and clip. To make fitting the boot, which is under pressure from the spring, easier, I hold the clutch arm up with a couple of cable ties:

K1100LT%20%28407%29-L.jpg


That makes helping the cover boot over the lip a lot easier:

K1100LT%20%28408%29-L.jpg


Then fit the retaining clip. With the screw vertically there's a better chance to get at it to tighten it later if required (the eagle eyed may spot that I've used a couple of Phillips screws to hold the gear position indicator instead of the hex head ones which are awkward little sods to get at even with a tiny socket):

K1100LT%20%28409%29-XL.jpg


The Paralever arm can go back on now along with the shaft (making a mental note of the position of the universal joints for correct phasing of the other end when it is ready to go on):

K1100LT%20%28410%29-L.jpg


The swingarm is next. First re-fit the gearbox end rubber boot and its internal spring clip, then some Staurbergs paste to ease re-fitting and to help seal it from the elements:

K1100LT%20%28411%29-L.jpg


Slip it over the shaft and re-fit the pivots:

K1100LT%20%28413%29-L.jpg


Then the frame can go on. I wasn't planning on dropping it back on yet but a mate was here yesterday so I took advantage of his extra hands:

K1100LT%20%28420%29-L.jpg


Only the front mountings have been fitted. The rear are resting on the bolts. That's so that I can hinge it upwards to help re-fitting the main loom and relay box.

K1100LT%20%28421%29-L.jpg


On with the final drive:

K1100LT%20%28423%29-L.jpg


Rear disc, brake and wheel on. I'm not happy with the disc, I've been on the look-out for a non-ABS one in decent condition as this one is a bit pitted and the ABS ring makes getting the wider wheel out more of a problem.

I feel a bit happier now that I can at last add a hold down strap over the rear wheel:

K1100LT%20%28424%29-XL.jpg


I've been doing other stuff but I'll detail that when the parts are going back on.
 


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