K1100R

ecnirpr said:

How and when, I'm not too sure!

Whilst I have the "family gene" required to polish within an inch of its life, I'm not quite so talented with a spanner as Mike was. It recently took several emails and phone calls for him to talk me through replacing the electric fan motor and the pushrod rubber boot on my K75s! Which for him was a piece of piss, for me..... NOT so simple

Mike gave me a few options. Amongst them.....
1. Sell it in its current state.
2. Over time continue his work and finish it, with the assistance of all his previous rebuild threads and the Haynes book!
3.Pay for the work to be completed sooner than I could do it myself.

Or..... 4, Wheel it outside and torch it!

Whichever way it goes you'll all be the first to know!

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MikeP said:

... these things are a bit like Meccano toys - ideal for amateur bodgers like me but not much of a challenge to anyone with real abilities.

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twizzle said:

Great idea... I'm useless ... But can fetch/run/carry/make tea/ sarnies... If I can help..

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MikeP said:

I popped the throttle bodies and airbox back on. It seemed a better way to keep crap out of the intakes than bits of paper towel stuffed in them:

It's so much easier to connect things like the crankcase breather pipe when it's like this:

Plus the timing chain case breather:

So there's no excuse but to get on with the various engine covers. Those with bare ali highlights, I first set about polishing the highlights. It's easier to then remove masking or paint from a smooth polished surface later. Good old grit blocks (the bit up to the 'W' is done):

Then the paint can be flatted/keyed with 400 grit paper followed by a wash and degrease:

Once dry and any masking done, they have a swift, light squirt of satin black:

Then the coats are built-up:

The front covers done, just need to fully harden and then they can have a buff with polish:

In between coats of paint I decided that it was time to fit the replacement bearing and seal to the final drive. First job was to pop the crown wheel into the freezer for an hour, then out with the old pan and heat the new bearing:

The chilled crown wheel resting in the vice ready for the toasty bearing:

The toasty bearing slips over with a satisfying sizzle. It needed just a light tapping fully home (tapping on the inner of the race only).

The new seal pressed in:

Then the bearing (and shims) can go into the housing and the cover screwed and torqued down with a new O-ring in this case.

A nice new clutch friction plate arrived yesterday morning so that means that I can get on with more reassembly:

The gearbox input shaft splines got a final clean and lubed with Optimol TA paste:

Then the gearbox can go back on (much easier when you don't have to slip it between the rear frame mountings):

The six screws are surprising low torque settings (16 Nm). Anyway, now I can add an old scissor jack under the gearbox and at a few turns at a time, raise both engine and gearbox:

To re-fit the stands:

That'll do for now.

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symphonetix said:

Hi mike, just looking through this old thread on your K bike restauration. I wondered what paint you use for all the satin back on frame and engine parts . just starting on a r1100gs and I want to do engine parts blackened thought I would try painting frame parts instead of powder coat this time. any info would be gratefully received . Cheers

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Bryn said:

Mike’s no longer with us…. He lost his battle with cancer some time ago

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