ghiribizzo
Registered user
Why? He doesn't need to remove the airbox out of the subframe.
Pulling the gearbox - 1100RT
- Thread starter Posh Pete
- Start date
Why? He doesn't need to remove the airbox out of the subframe.
The airbox fouls the ABS pump and battery tray when the sub frame is lifted. Or it does on my bike!
dizzyrascal
Registered user
Thanks for the information
Hi
Just want to say great thread reading this with great interest and learning hopefully for when I need to do this, thanks to all contributors.
Hi
Just want to say great thread reading this with great interest and learning hopefully for when I need to do this, thanks to all contributors.
Gearbox oot!
Started today by removing the airbox. After removing the allan bolts at the front and the tie to the wiring harness, the only obstacle was the breather tube. I broke the crimp with a pair of mole grips. I'll probably use a zip tie when I reassemble.
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The airbox came away with a bit of shoogling and moving aside the spider's web of fuel pipes, electrical cables etc ...
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Then I got busy with the hacksaw on a length of 8mm threaded studding (£1.79 at the local ironmongers
). Cut two lengths which were inserted in the middle of the 3 (ach side) gearbox holes. The bolts were then removed (longer pair at the top) and the studs inserted. Yes, I know they were too long! They'll be shortened for the rebuild.
Placed the jack under the gearbox and pulled it back along the two studs. The main problem was extricating the box in a straight line and pulling aside the aforementioned spider's web of stuff. You also have to remmeber to lever up the battery case so that the two bolts attaching it to the top of the gearbox are freed.
After a bit of adjusting of the jack and a few shoogles and heaves, the box slid back ok.
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The length of the studs was an issue. I had to pull one out and get busy with the hacksaw again. Also the quality of the metal. If I was doing it again, I'd look for a suitable length 8mm hi tensile bolt and cut the head off rather than use the cheaper option I used here,
However, the box came out Ok and I checked the clutch push rod on a flat surface and it was still true so no harm done.
The box is now ready for refurbishment.
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Next job is the clutch. At 55k miles, it's safer to replace it and received wisdom is to replace the whole lot and not just the friction plate and the bolts. Any other opinions out there? Paging Steptoe!
Started today by removing the airbox. After removing the allan bolts at the front and the tie to the wiring harness, the only obstacle was the breather tube. I broke the crimp with a pair of mole grips. I'll probably use a zip tie when I reassemble.
The airbox came away with a bit of shoogling and moving aside the spider's web of fuel pipes, electrical cables etc ...
Then I got busy with the hacksaw on a length of 8mm threaded studding (£1.79 at the local ironmongers
). Cut two lengths which were inserted in the middle of the 3 (ach side) gearbox holes. The bolts were then removed (longer pair at the top) and the studs inserted. Yes, I know they were too long! They'll be shortened for the rebuild.Placed the jack under the gearbox and pulled it back along the two studs. The main problem was extricating the box in a straight line and pulling aside the aforementioned spider's web of stuff. You also have to remmeber to lever up the battery case so that the two bolts attaching it to the top of the gearbox are freed.
After a bit of adjusting of the jack and a few shoogles and heaves, the box slid back ok.
The length of the studs was an issue. I had to pull one out and get busy with the hacksaw again. Also the quality of the metal. If I was doing it again, I'd look for a suitable length 8mm hi tensile bolt and cut the head off rather than use the cheaper option I used here,
However, the box came out Ok and I checked the clutch push rod on a flat surface and it was still true so no harm done.
The box is now ready for refurbishment.
Next job is the clutch. At 55k miles, it's safer to replace it and received wisdom is to replace the whole lot and not just the friction plate and the bolts. Any other opinions out there? Paging Steptoe!
Clutch off
Took advantage of the better weather today by dismantling the clutch. Locked the flywheel with a bit of 8mm stud. The corresponding hole in the crankcase is at 10 o clock ish (see pic) and then undid the 6 allan bolts in diagonal sequence. They required suprisingly little effort.
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The rebuild will begin after Xmas with a new clutch. The gearbox will then be slotted in when it's ready and a refurbished rear shock. Unless anyone has an Ohlins sitting on a shelf?
Happy Xmas everyone!
Took advantage of the better weather today by dismantling the clutch. Locked the flywheel with a bit of 8mm stud. The corresponding hole in the crankcase is at 10 o clock ish (see pic) and then undid the 6 allan bolts in diagonal sequence. They required suprisingly little effort.
The rebuild will begin after Xmas with a new clutch. The gearbox will then be slotted in when it's ready and a refurbished rear shock. Unless anyone has an Ohlins sitting on a shelf?
Happy Xmas everyone!
Ok. The Xmas / New Year splurge is over and once the next storm front passes through, I'll be ready to fit the new clutch. A wee query first?
On another thread, Steptoe
says that new clutches come pre balanced, so no need to fit the new clutch so as to stagger the paint marks on it by 120 degrees. Or did I misunderstand that? The new clutch des have paint marks, why?
On another thread, Steptoe
says that new clutches come pre balanced, so no need to fit the new clutch so as to stagger the paint marks on it by 120 degrees. Or did I misunderstand that? The new clutch des have paint marks, why?
Fit the clutch with the paint marks staggered 120Deg or as near as you can get it
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?153714-Clutch-replacement-YES-NO-tips-experiences
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?153714-Clutch-replacement-YES-NO-tips-experiences
Just to say, this is a very useful and well timed thread 
With this thread and other posts by Steptoe, I've got my 1100 to the 'removing the gearbox' stage which is going to happen today when my mate comes round with his extra pair of hands. Thus far it's gone pretty well to plan - I'm going to replace the clutch whilst its in bits (about 50k on the original). From peering through the starter hole, I think the clutch has escaped contamination from the gearbox input seal or pushrod seal (whichever is leaking - not sure yet) but it seems a false economy to not do it while its apart - I don't want to be doing this operation on a regular basis
Hope I can get it rebuilt in time for the Dragon Rally
One question regarding the crankshaft output seal - if it appears dry and leak free, would it be a good idea to replace it anyway, or just leave the original?...
With this thread and other posts by Steptoe, I've got my 1100 to the 'removing the gearbox' stage which is going to happen today when my mate comes round with his extra pair of hands. Thus far it's gone pretty well to plan - I'm going to replace the clutch whilst its in bits (about 50k on the original). From peering through the starter hole, I think the clutch has escaped contamination from the gearbox input seal or pushrod seal (whichever is leaking - not sure yet) but it seems a false economy to not do it while its apart - I don't want to be doing this operation on a regular basis
Hope I can get it rebuilt in time for the Dragon Rally
One question regarding the crankshaft output seal - if it appears dry and leak free, would it be a good idea to replace it anyway, or just leave the original?...
It would be easier with another pair of hands but you can simply lift it out of the way as you pull the box back.
Great - thanks
I have an extra pair of hands arriving today to help with the box removal
Fit the clutch with the paint marks staggered 120Deg or as near as you can get it
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?153714-Clutch-replacement-YES-NO-tips-experiences
Mmmmm ... See post 7 here.
Just to say, this is a very useful and well timed thread
With this thread and other posts by Steptoe, I've got my 1100 to the 'removing the gearbox' stage which is going to happen today when my mate comes round with his extra pair of hands. Thus far it's gone pretty well to plan - I'm going to replace the clutch whilst its in bits (about 50k on the original). From peering through the starter hole, I think the clutch has escaped contamination from the gearbox input seal or pushrod seal (whichever is leaking - not sure yet) but it seems a false economy to not do it while its apart - I don't want to be doing this operation on a regular basis
Hope I can get it rebuilt in time for the Dragon Rally
One question regarding the crankshaft output seal - if it appears dry and leak free, would it be a good idea to replace it anyway, or just leave the original?...
In my case, the gearbox input seal will be replaced with the gearbox refurb. Like you, my original clutch (it was marked 98 so had to be original) was uncontaminated by oil. There is a mist of oil and other crap on the bottom of the bellhousing but not enough to convince me to pull the flywheel and faff around with a new output seal. I intend to leave it since even if there is some leakage, it has not resulted in any damage to the clutch. Let's hope I don't come to regret that decision.
Welshman
Registered user
Just to say, this is a very useful and well timed thread
With this thread and other posts by Steptoe, I've got my 1100 to the 'removing the gearbox' stage which is going to happen today when my mate comes round with his extra pair of hands. Thus far it's gone pretty well to plan - I'm going to replace the clutch whilst its in bits (about 50k on the original). From peering through the starter hole, I think the clutch has escaped contamination from the gearbox input seal or pushrod seal (whichever is leaking - not sure yet) but it seems a false economy to not do it while its apart - I don't want to be doing this operation on a regular basis
Hope I can get it rebuilt in time for the Dragon Rally
One question regarding the crankshaft output seal - if it appears dry and leak free, would it be a good idea to replace it anyway, or just leave the original?...
My opinion, if it is Ok dont touch it, if they appear to be good leave them, a new one is not necescarily an improvement...
And my gearbox is off
The only tricky bit was the big earth lead which caught on the left hand battery box rubber mount as we pulled the box back (and broke the top stud off it) - I'll add one of those to the shopping list. Looks like that earth lead will be an issue when I refit the box - doesn't have enough length / flexibility to pass over the rubber mount. I'll have to work out a way round this...
Good call.
With the box and clutch off, peering through the holes in the flywheel, the rear face of the crankcase is bone dry. The seal is staying
The clutch however measures at 4.67mm (I believe the lower wear limit is 4.5), so I'm kind of pleased that it needs changing - it makes pulling the box more worth while.
Thanks again for this thread (and sorry for the hijack) - very useful.
The only tricky bit was the big earth lead which caught on the left hand battery box rubber mount as we pulled the box back (and broke the top stud off it) - I'll add one of those to the shopping list. Looks like that earth lead will be an issue when I refit the box - doesn't have enough length / flexibility to pass over the rubber mount. I'll have to work out a way round this...
Good call.
With the box and clutch off, peering through the holes in the flywheel, the rear face of the crankcase is bone dry. The seal is staying
The clutch however measures at 4.67mm (I believe the lower wear limit is 4.5), so I'm kind of pleased that it needs changing - it makes pulling the box more worth while.
Thanks again for this thread (and sorry for the hijack) - very useful.
Welshman
Registered user
And my gearbox is off
The only tricky bit was the big earth lead which caught on the left hand battery box rubber mount as we pulled the box back (and broke the top stud off it) - I'll add one of those to the shopping list. Looks like that earth lead will be an issue when I refit the box - doesn't have enough length / flexibility to pass over the rubber mount. I'll have to work out a way round this...
Good call.
With the box and clutch off, peering through the holes in the flywheel, the rear face of the crankcase is bone dry. The seal is staying
The clutch however measures at 4.67mm (I believe the lower wear limit is 4.5), so I'm kind of pleased that it needs changing - it makes pulling the box more worth while.
Thanks again for this thread (and sorry for the hijack) - very useful.
I remember 4.6mm being the low limit but thats cool .....
And my gearbox is off
The only tricky bit was the big earth lead which caught on the left hand battery box rubber mount as we pulled the box back (and broke the top stud off it) - I'll add one of those to the shopping list. Looks like that earth lead will be an issue when I refit the box - doesn't have enough length / flexibility to pass over the rubber mount. I'll have to work out a way round this...
Use a ratchet strap around the battery carrier and the handlebars and ratchet the battery carrier up a couple of inches.
When replacing the gearbox insert the clutch pushrod into the diphram spring and slide the gearbox along it (obviously while supporting the weight) into place.
Lever the earth strap with an old screwdriver over the battery box rubber mount as you slide the gearbox back. I do this single handed and it's fairly straightforward.
So, about to fit the new clutch and laid it out on the dining room table. (The boss is out!). Do the three pegs on the cover plate engage with the 'oles in the spring steel extensions to the driven plate? Yes, I know I should have paid more attention when I removed the old clutch.
Also looking for confirmation of the need to stagger the paint marks on the components. Previously, Steptoe said this was not necessary since each component is individually balanced?
Also looking for confirmation of the need to stagger the paint marks on the components. Previously, Steptoe said this was not necessary since each component is individually balanced?
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