What the hell has that chip done to my engine!

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When I bought the bike supplied with it but not fitted was a K&N, decat, end can and a eprom chip.

Ran with the k&n and zorst mods for a while, just before a weekend trip to loch long I reset the tps to 369mv all was well, got great fuel consumption and bike ran well.

Shortly after I plucked up the courage and fitted the eprom chip.
Bike didnt run too well and was back firing on over-run quite alot,
backed of the tps back to 361 in case it was over rich...not really any better.
With the chip in the bike developed a strange noise on WOT in 6th it sound like small stones hitting the sump guard (theres none in there by the way).

So have removed the chip and (for no reason other than noise) stuck the standard end can back on and reset the TPS to 371.

With the chip out its still back firing on over-run doesnt feel quite and right and is still making the same metallic noise as when the chip was in.

Incidentally 2-2.5 glitch is much better now.

The bike is very "fumey" on start up that first puff of smoke is noticable and strong.

1). If the chip was badly programmed could it have damaged the engine?

2). The plugs seem a little heavily contaminated for my liking especially the off side one, which incidentally was missing the rubber cap off the throttle body nozzles (overly lean mixture causing pinking under heavy load).

3). Does the ECU over right the maps of a new chip when the new chip is installed if so can the "maps be purged" and reloaded when the standard chip is installed?

DSC_0369.jpg
- n/s cyl
DSC_0370.jpg
- o/s cyl
DSC_0371.jpg
- the offending chip
 
Did you make any alterations to the CCP?
Did you remove fuse 5 and do a throttle reset before using the new chip?
The fact you ran it lean without the rubber bung in the throttle body wouldn't have helped.

I've just fitted one of John's chips to my 1150 and the bike's now on steroids, engine has more power everywhere, smoother and I'll feel mpg may have improved as well.
 
Cheers Tim, What's the ccp? No didn't remove fuse 5 and do throttle reset.

So am I better off doing the throttle reset and removing fuse 5 for 30s? 24hrs? And leaving the standard ecu as is or do all of those and remove for a while?
 
This photo below will explain the Cat Code Plug (CCP) try making a link wire with 2 male spade terminals and connecting 30 and 87.

Before starting the engine I would pull fuse 5, open and close the throttle fully a couple of times with ignition on. turn it off and replace the fuse.
Do this before using the new chip ie. but with it fitted.



Was it broke before you fixed it?:D
 

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The only bug when it was standard was the misfire but added the go vaguely faster but much noiser bits just because they came with it.
 
Timolgra said:
This photo below will explain the Cat Code Plug (CCP) try making a link wire with 2 male spade terminals and connecting 30 and 87.

Before starting the engine I would pull fuse 5, open and close the throttle fully a couple of times with ignition on. turn it off and replace the fuse.
Do this before using the new chip ie. but with it fitted.



Was it broke before you fixed it?:D
Click to expand...
So linking out the terminals tells the ecu no cat?

Incidentally bike a bit better with the test spigot covered but issues not gone completely so will try this now and see what happens tomorrow.
 
Timolgra said:
Any particular reason for removing it?:D
Click to expand...
In your post above you said try linking out the two terminals but the yellow block already linked them out. So I thought I'd try the opposite at a guess this tells the ecu whether the cat is there or not?
 
You have been adjusting the TPS voltage via the throttle screw haven't you - not just loosening the two bolts and twisting? In my experience, the setup is soooo sensitive to change.
 
monkeyboy said:
You have been adjusting the TPS voltage via the throttle screw haven't you - not just loosening the two bolts and twisting? In my experience, the setup is soooo sensitive to change.
Click to expand...
I haven't touched the brass screws but someone has, the screws are in different positions and the slot is a bit butchered.

When I get some time I'm going to stick my carb tune on it to see if the tb's are balanced.
 
Not the brass screws - the ones at the back of the TB that dictate the resting point of the butterflies. This is the screw you should use to adjust the TPS voltage. You shouldn't undo the TPS bolts to change the voltage unless you're doing a zero zero from scratch
 
monkeyboy said:
Not the brass screws - the ones at the back of the TB that dictate the resting point of the butterflies. This is the screw you should use to adjust the TPS voltage. You shouldn't undo the TPS bolts to change the voltage unless you're doing a zero zero from scratch
Click to expand...

Ooops. I undid the two torx bolts then with the engine idling twisted the TPS unit to get 371mv. I did something similar on my old 1100rt and it worked a treat.
 
monkeyboy said:
Not the brass screws - the ones at the back of the TB that dictate the resting point of the butterflies. This is the screw you should use to adjust the TPS voltage. You shouldn't undo the TPS bolts to change the voltage unless you're doing a zero zero from scratch
Click to expand...

that is totally arse about face :blast

you only need to do zero zero if you adjust the throttle stops. this should be avoided. the factory mark those screws with paint to discourage fiddling.

to change the TPS voltage, you undo the screws and rotate the TPS unit.
 
cookie said:
that is totally arse about face :blast

you only need to do zero zero if you adjust the throttle stops. this should be avoided. the factory mark those screws with paint to discourage fiddling.

to change the TPS voltage, you undo the screws and rotate the TPS unit.
Click to expand...

I think you'll find that's not right. The TPS should be set to 0.01 at full butterfly closeure and NEVER adjusted by twisting it from then on. It should by using the screw so the throttle opening matches the voltage of .37. Ideally BOTH the TPS and the throttle stop screws are factory set of course. Plenty of examples - See here

Adjusting the TPS by twisting it is adjusting the mix as the map expects a particular amount of air (butterfly opening) at particular voltages - If you starting dicking about with that then good luck:)
 
my understanding was that this. Made the mixture richer. Thanks for the link that article looks familiar from a while back. Looks like I need to go right back and redo everything.
 
monkeyboy said:
Adjusting the TPS by twisting it is adjusting the mix as the map expects a particular amount of air (butterfly opening) at particular voltages - If you starting dicking about with that then good luck:)
Click to expand...

and that's exactly why i would, and have done it, plenty of times.

setting it to near 380mv richens the mixture a tad, and has made several bikes nicer to ride in my direct experience.

i must have been lucky.
 
monkeyboy said:
I think you'll find that's not right. The TPS should be set to 0.01 at full butterfly closeure and NEVER adjusted by twisting it from then on. It should by using the screw so the throttle opening matches the voltage of .37. Ideally BOTH the TPS and the throttle stop screws are factory set of course. Plenty of examples - See here

Adjusting the TPS by twisting it is adjusting the mix as the map expects a particular amount of air (butterfly opening) at particular voltages - If you starting dicking about with that then good luck:)
Click to expand...

blueranger said:
my understanding was that this. Made the mixture richer. Thanks for the link that article looks familiar from a while back. Looks like I need to go right back and redo everything.
Click to expand...

cookie said:
and that's exactly why i would, and have done it, plenty of times.

setting it to near 380mv richens the mixture a tad, and has made several bikes nicer to ride in my direct experience.

i must have been lucky.
Click to expand...

I'm new on this board and don't want to be controversial, just helpful, so take my comments in that light. Having made about two years worth of GS-911 and LC-1 exhaust measurements on my dual-spark R1150, I can say with some certainty that any voltage around 370 mV plus/minus will yield the same results. The Motronic "registers" itself to the TPS when you twist the throttle twice after reset. (Please keep in mind that the Motronic MA 2.4 takes 5 minutes with the fuse removed or battery disconnected to reset. For sure, two minutes wasn't long enough in tests I made.)

Every 20 mV of change is only 0.1 degrees, and so from that perspective, even if the Motronic didn't register and learn the throttle position, a 40 mV shift would only be 0.2 degrees (out of 80 degrees full scale).

If someone has altered your throttle stop screws or TPS and you want to get them back in the factory calibrated range, Zero degrees throttle is not 0.0 mV, the Lentini zero=zero is wrong and leads to a too-lean setting. At zero degrees throttle, the TPS, per the Bosch spec, should be set to 250 mV. So if you want to follow the zero=zero process, start at 250 mV.

Here is a thread on some experiments we're running now: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=895615#Post895615. There is a link in the first post of the thread to the Bosch spec.

RB
 
monkeyboy said:
I think you'll find that's not right. The TPS should be set to 0.01 at full butterfly closeure and NEVER adjusted by twisting it from then on. It should by using the screw so the throttle opening matches the voltage of .37. Ideally BOTH the TPS and the throttle stop screws are factory set of course. Plenty of examples - See here

Adjusting the TPS by twisting it is adjusting the mix as the map expects a particular amount of air (butterfly opening) at particular voltages - If you starting dicking about with that then good luck:)
Click to expand...

blueranger said:
my understanding was that this. Made the mixture richer. Thanks for the link that article looks familiar from a while back. Looks like I need to go right back and redo everything.
Click to expand...

cookie said:
and that's exactly why i would, and have done it, plenty of times.

setting it to near 380mv richens the mixture a tad, and has made several bikes nicer to ride in my direct experience.

i must have been lucky.
Click to expand...

I'm new on this board and don't want to be controversial, just helpful, so take my comments in that light. Having made about two years worth of GS-911 and LC-1 exhaust measurements on my dual-spark R1150, I can say with some certainty that any voltage around 370 mV plus/minus will yield the same results. The Motronic "registers" itself to the TPS when you twist the throttle twice after reset. (http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthrea...9453&Words=roger+04+rt&Search=true#Post881130)

Every 20 mV of change is only 0.1 degrees, and so from that perspective, even if the Motronic didn't register and learn the throttle position, a 40 mV shift would only be 0.2 degrees (out of 80 degrees full scale).

If someone has altered your throttle stop screws or TPS and you want to get them back in the factory calibrated range, Zero degrees throttle is not 0.0 mV, the Lentini zero=zero is wrong and leads to a too-lean setting. At zero degrees throttle, the TPS, per the Bosch spec, should be set to 250 mV. So if you want to follow the zero=zero process, start at 250 mV.

Here is a thread on some experiments we're running now: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=895615#Post895615. There is a link in the first post of the thread to the Bosch spec.

RB
 
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