Siezed rear calliper

Don't forget the flat up the side to give space for air to escape when its pushed into he caliper.

Mine had 3 flats on it and had a very subtle taper to it. I'll have a chat with the machinist (who I taught how to pick locks) and is an amazing fitter and turner but I may put the flats on myself to make it simpler for him to make.
 
You could have it drilled up the middle and fit a grub screw to seal it. But that's assuming the flats are there for letting air escape. We don't know their true purpose.

Also are out sure the pins are supposed to be tapered and have not worn in some way?

Would this not be a much easier option? Save the machining work for something more interesting.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/bmw-r1200...616796?hash=item3d17f01bdc:g:rM8AAOSwAoRXFfKP
 
Sorry to resurrect a 4 year old thread - but does anyone know where i could source a rear sliding pin as talked about here - I have managed to clean mine up, but it is bent out of shape and binding.
 
Thanks for the link, not the pad pins I’m looking for, but the slider pins crewed into the calliper.
I have managed to straighten the part and it is working for now, just been wondering why damaging a removable part would result in needing to replace whole calliper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You could have it drilled up the middle and fit a grub screw to seal it. But that's assuming the flats are there for letting air escape. We don't know their true purpose.

Also are out sure the pins are supposed to be tapered and have not worn in some way?

Would this not be a much easier option? Save the machining work for something more interesting.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/bmw-r1200...616796?hash=item3d17f01bdc:g:rM8AAOSwAoRXFfKP

I think the flats are there to reduce the surface area in contact to reduce the amount of inertia required to move the calliper on the pin and help prevent seizure.
 


Back
Top Bottom