Off to Iran, at last

Belgrade

Wave if you are passing by Belgrade... And shout if you need secure parking.

Enjoy the trip, weather is cooling off in Serbia these days.

Looking forward to following this - have a great safe trip....

Spent 2 years there

1989/1990 as a project manager in Kerman.
Went to Kohemeni's funeral.
I loved my time there. It was the experience of a lifetime.
If you have time, go to visit the Persopilis.Not to be missed.
Bam was well worth a visit before the earthquake, but was totally destroyed by it.
I have attached a few photos. This is the colour the sky always seems to come out there.
Myke

geotim said:

Wave if you are passing by Belgrade... And shout if you need secure parking.

Enjoy the trip, weather is cooling off in Serbia these days.

Click to expand...

PMd you, Geotim


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Simon, good to see you are on your way. I'm envious, even though I was there a few months ago. Will follow with interest.

Day 2: From the Black Forest to the Julian Alps and Slovenia...and I lose my goat(skin):

Many have covered these roads and written about it, so I will keep it brief - especially as I was more focused on riding the taking pictures today, which took the distance covered up to 1,000 miles (550 yesterday, 450+ today).

I indulged myself with gorgeous Black Forest winding roads to start the day, making my way to Ulm after a very good breakfast - so good that it also provided an ample lunch as well! It was a beautiful, chilly morning with Autumn blue skies and fabulous views with you will just have to imagine for yourselves - as I am sure you can.

But since Slovenia beckoned, after my elevenses of a big Twix bar I hopped onto the autobahn and started to motor East and South. But before that I was devastated to discover that somewhere - probably at a fuel stop- I had lost the goatskin that I used on the seat. It had a lot of memories since I bought it in the old market in Aleppo (now devastated, I fear) when I rode there in 2008. I hope the new owner treasures the memories!

A few pictures:
Time to buy vignettes - Austria and Sloveni (at least they are half the cost of the car ones
The view from my hotel on a mountaintop outside KranjView attachment 320584
And this helps, too

And finally, a castle seen outside Villach, Austria




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Good man Simon, great to see you on the road
Will be following along, ride safe & enjoy

Day 3: From sunrise to sunset (another 500 miler):
I start the day in Northern Slovenia with this magnificent view from my balcony at the appropriately named Hotel Bellevue, just outside Kranj, North of Ljubljana



Today was about getting a move on, so after a first 10km in misty country roads and a commuter traffic jam, I jumped onto the motorway and endured a myriad of toll booths. Soon I was on the Serbian border, where the border guards were more interested in my destination (and why go there?) than any detailed documentation such as insurance green cards etc.

The was my third trip through Serbia. Immediately I got the impression of poorer road quality and poorer driving quality - within 2 Kms of the border I came upon a 2 car crash - both written off and one at least drive by a Turkish man, possibly headed back there from time abroad.

The motorway also had the odd person waiting to cross, such as a a field worker wielding a scythe - good to keep an eye out!

I ended the day in Nis in Serbia - with this sunset by the old citadel.



But few photos today, as it was many about riding South East.

Nis has its share of poor architecture reminiscent of central planning



But I score a very upscale pad complete with art work at the Art Loft in the centre of town:



Nis was renowned in antiquity as the gateway between West and East, so very appropriate for me to pass through it. It was also the birthplace of Constantine, the first Christian Emperor of Rome, and the one who established the first Eastern capital of the Roman Empire: Constantinople , now known as Istanbul.

This historical neatness led me to some musings - perhaps I should divert my path South West through Macedonia, and visit the birthplace of Alexander of Macedonia aka Alexander the Great. He had a huge influence in Persia and it would add a nice link to my trip East, even if I cannot go through to Afghanistan as he did.

Also, it's a chance to take the road from Gustivar to Lake Ohrid and on to Bitola which is supposed to be a great biking road - a chance to use the new tyres before they get completely squared off by the motorway riding.

So here is the route I am contemplating for Day 5:



More for the history buffs in my next post - and apologies to those who are more into the bikes - I will post a few bike photos soon




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About the bike:

This is not a technical update as those of you who know me also know I am a bit of a mechanical numpty. However as I am probably going to go on about historic sites it's only fair that I have some motorcycle bits in too.

It's a 2003 R1150GS with about 100,000kms on the clock - the first 12,000 from its first, German owner and the rest from me. It's been to Western Sahara, Syria, Jordan, across Turkey twice, and to Georgia and Armenia. Hoping it will keep on going for this trip!



Preparing the bike:

I had it checked over by Steptoe, our London area independent guru who keeps it serviced, and fitted new Tourances. I also went wild and fitted Rugged Roads winglets and headlamp cover, which are great and have decimated the fly population 0f the Balkans already so they must be doing the job!



Special equipment?

The right hand pannier houses the travelling Iibrary, along with a tyre compressor and the limited tools I carry (Of course the 1150 being a proper GS actually has its own toolset and puncture pair kit under the saddle!) But no point bringing much as I hate the weight and wouldn't know how to use it anyway!



For the first time, I have brought a workshop manual with me but am hoping not to have to use it during my trip - maybe I took it as an insurance policy?!

Other technical preparations?

Read a few books


And just started this one, which makes me want to keep on going to China...






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Enjoy your trip Simon, looks amazing and is definitely on my 'to do' list at some point. I'm just home from a trip to Bosnia & Montenegro but Iran will be a completely different culture experience, have a great time

Have an amazing trip...post plenty of phots too!!

Simon, making good progress. Spooky that Nis was my stop too but you've delved more into he history. Looks an interesting onward route.

I'll mention Meteora in Greece, with the wonderful monasteries, but may not fit your route.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meteora

Simon, Thanks for taking the time to send these updates and tid-bits.....funny how people around the world are watching your progress! (The miracle of modern technology, without doubt). Funnily enough, I have just purchased that Silk Roads book as I am thinking of going along a northern route to Baku (Caspian Sea ferry) and across to Almaty, because Afghanistan/Pakistan is a no-go area. I am greatly comforted by your lack of technical expertise as the main forum is a little intimidating at times!
It's also interesting that border officials at the end of the day, are often captivated by the unusual and so happy to talk and wave you through.
Will be interested in your Albania/ Macedonia re-routing.
Safe riding.

Drumacoon Lad. said:

Simon, making good progress. Spooky that Nis was my stop too but you've delved more into he history. Looks an interesting onward route.

I'll mention Meteora in Greece, with the wonderful monasteries, but may not fit your route.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meteora

Click to expand...

Jim, thanks for the suggestion. Meteora looks beautiful, and only 3 hours away...but in the wrong direction. So reluctantly I shall save it for a future visit, perhaps with Mrs B.

Am now in Bitola, will update report tonight I hope.


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Funnily enough, I have just purchased that Silk Roads book as I am thinking of going along a northern route to Baku (Caspian Sea ferry) and across to Almaty, because Afghanistan/Pakistan is a no-go area. I am greatly comforted by your lack of technical expertise as the main forum is a little intimidating at times!
It's also interesting that border officials at the end of the day, are often captivated by the unusual and so happy to talk and wave you through.
Will be interested in your Albania/ Macedonia re-routing.
Safe riding.

Click to expand...

Thanks Kitsilano - your planned trip sounds fascinating!


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I loved the people and the regime at the time I worked there

Shiraz is a must with the Persopolis

I also wanted to go and see the ruined wineries Yes Shiraz is where that grape originated from! Stories I heard of people leaving in pick ups and trailers and trucks with small seedlings wrapped in bundles as the religious fervour took over and their homes and livelihoods were destroyed!

There's also something about Esfahan (Isfahan that I am trying to recall but its over 15 years ago (when Ah Ma Dinner Jacket got into power any wish I had of going back evaporated!)

I was pretty fluent in Farsi at the time and can still recall some If you want a list of possibly useful phrases?

"Lottevan, Man mekam meram beh parvez-hayeh Kharijee!" was imprinted on my mind
(along with my "cough" spare passport and $1000 and £500 in a body belt when I travelled!!!)

It means "Please take me to the foreigners airport!"

Thanks DrF - but my travelling library includes a few phrases and will probably stretch my linguistic ability sufficiently! Have just arrived in Turkey so will try to update later this evening


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Day 4 - I wander a little, in pursuit of Alexander. {History-haters, please look away!}

As I hinted at earlier, I was going to play hookey and head for Macedonia, a bit off the direct route to Istanbul. But before leaving Nis I had to visit the famed Tower of Skulls. After being led down a non-existent back alley by my Garmin, I eventually found it but it was closed - the Nis interpretation of 9am being a little more elastic than mine.

So this is all I saw - but no doubt all the other medieval skulls inside looked similar



Next stop was Mediana, Constantine's villa 1 km down the road - but it too was closed! However, one of the mosaic restorers was a biker and he saw me standing disconsolately at the gate - so he let me in! The fraternity of bikers rocks



His lady colleague then showed me around all the mosaics and explained how they restore them - fantastic private tour.






Then by 0945 I was on my way to Macedonia - and in particular the windy road down to lake Ohrid on the Albanian border. It was a fair hike down to Gostivar where the road started to get more interesting. And because tolls are collected every few Kms on the 'autoroute', and I was paying with my credit card (the tolls were about 1 euro a pop) I amassed a whole pile of paper receipts by the time I got there.

There was some massive and ambitious road building happening in the hills above the old road so expect to see it changed. The work involves buttressing the mount aside to stop it falling down



Ohrid is 'orrid!

Actually it is very beautiful, and the damsels fair




And apparently, I learnt later, Ohrid is also the birthplace of St Cyril (inventor of the eponymous alphabet that foxes me all the time) .

But it is so touristy on a Saturday afternoon - 5 people came up to me asking if I wanted a room for the night - that after my cup of coffee, use of the cafe's wifi to book a hotel in Bitola on the Greek border, and a chat with a Spanish biker couple from Barcelona, I was on my way again.

And I was glad I did, as the road from Ohrid to Bitola was even better and lots of fun - even the gravel and freshly-laid Earth off-road section in the roadworks.

Bitola was interesting, both the Hotel Teatar where I stayed and the covered bazaar which although closed I wandered around before eating a traditional Macedonian meal nearby. The city was founded By Alexander the Great's father Philip II and I am instructed by the very didactic barmaid to visit the remnants at Heraclea the next morning.

Bitola mosque - typical Balkans scene


The bike is appropriately featured in the hotel courtyard, so I sleep the sleep of those who have ridden a very varied 1850 miles in 4 days


Tomorrow I shall head into Greece and then head toward Turkey.


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Day 5
Leaving the Balkans for Greece and Turkey

After an extensive breakfast (and lunch preparation of course) I set off from Bitola, instructed by my hostess to visit Heraclea - which I did, wending my way through black-clad old women. I realised when I got to Heraclea that all these ladies were off to the adjacent cemetery, this being Sunday.

I had the site to myself:


I will limit myself to only one mosaic

Or two...


Very soon I was entering Greece. the friendly Customs staff chatted to me about the Irish ('better than the English, and better music') and were amazed I should be headed for Iran when I could go to enjoy the delights of Italy intead.

The country roads from the border, bypassing Florina and heading for Edessa, were wonderful, windy, and deserted for much of the way.

I saw a few very tall brick chimneys like this out in the country but have no idea what they were for. I will post a photo shortly when I upload it - anyone got a suggestion?



Soon I was at Pella, the birthplace of Alexander I believe and a major centre in its time:



OK, that's enough with the mosaics, it was time to put some miles in.

Soon I discovered that Greek toll booths only accept cash so I was back to tending a purse of coins for the attendant to take the right amount from (as they all scrupulously do), so I did not have to struggle with putting gloves on and off.

I also discovered Greece has some of the most expensive fuel in Europe at over 1.40 Euro/litre - good preparation for the high price in Turkey.

The first drops of rain of my trip fell near Asprovalta, Greece - not enough to get off and put on my waterproof 'boil in the bag' suit, fortunately.

I passed the historic cities of Thessaloniki and Alexandrinoupoli but you will be delighted, dear reader,that I did not visit and photograph any more mosaics today!

The road is named Egnatius Odos (which I guess is Greek for Via Egnatius (Odos and Odyssey and all that).
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_Egnatia

Looking at the GPS I realised that
I was knocking on towards the Turkish border. Whilst it is often better to be fresh in spirit when dealing with a difficult border crossing, I have generally found it easier and quieter crossing later in the day - often surprisingly so.

And so it was in this case. In a personal record, I was through the border to Turkey and its 3 or 4 set checkpoints (passport & visa checkpoint/insurance and vehicle reg papers checkpoint/customs check and finally, checkpoint that all the checks have been checked) in under 5 minutes!

Buoyed by this I wished them all GuleGule and decided to head for Kesan, since it was fast approaching my 5pm statutory 'knock off and down tools'.

Kesan was a strategic choice because it was the junction between the road to Istanbul, and the road down to Gelibolu and the Dardanelles crossing. I had been weighing up all afternoon whether the shorter trip via Istanbul and its fierce congestion on the bridge, or the slower but scenic route by the Gelibolu ferry.

I chose a hotel from the GPS and proceeded to go around the town centre in circles whilst the GPS dithered - I think everyone out for a stroll that evening knows me now, from one of my laps!

But I settled on a very ritzy Hotel, the Cetin, where the bike got pride of place by the front door. You know it's ritzy when there is a bath robe, so I resolve to tone it down for tomorrow night's accommodation.



The day finished with kofte and ayran (a bit like lassi) and the deep sleep of the knackered, after two border crossings and two sites of antiquity in one day.



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And for the geographers here is where Kesan is


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