2018 KTM 790 Adventure

...and presumably then change the charging system on the bike?

Ye of little faith. Various websites ...

Please note that only suitable battery chargers are used, such as the JMP 800, JMP 4000 or the corresponding workshop equipment. Please ensure that a compatible charger is used as a wrong charger will invalidate the 2 year warranty. For fast charging, we recommend the JMP 30000 workshop unit. With this a lithium-ion battery can be charged up to 90% within 6 minutes. For the maximum recommended charging currents please refer to the technical data below. In no case must chargers be use that have a de-sulphate mode for deeply discharged batteries (i.e showing 10 volts or less) These chargers use an output of more than 14.9 volts before they begin the actual charging cycle. The maximum charging voltage of 14.9 volts must not be exceeded in any case, as in extreme circumstances there can be a danger of explosion.

*PLEASE NOTE IT IS NECESSARY TO USE ONLY BATTERY CHARGERS SUITABLE FOR LITHIUM ION BATTERIES WITH THIS PRODUCT. SOME TRADITIONAL LEAD ACID CHARGES CAN IRREPARABLY DAMAGE LITHIUM BATTERIES. PLEASE REFER TO YOUR CHARGER MANUAL OR SEE OUR RANGE OF LITHIUM SPECIFIC CHARGERS.

Note that Lithium batteries can be difficult to revive if they are allowed to go totally flat so they are not suitable for total loss systems etc. Lithium batteries have different charging requirements to conventional batteries. Some conventional chargers will charge lithium batteries effectively and safely but there are specific compatibility issues such as maximum charge rate (Amps), charge capacity (Amp hours) and voltage. Check the specification of your charger and battery to avoid damage to the battery and safety issues. Overcharging or charging the lithium batteries too quickly can cause them to swell up and they can burst. If you are not sure that your conventional charger fulfils these requirements for your lithium battery, we have a choice of either the JMP4000 CANBUS lithium battery charger ACA90002 or the Ctek Lithium XS charger ACA66504 , which are suitable for most lithium batteries including all JMT and Aliant lithium batteries that we sell.
 
Last night at the local bike meet one of the R models was parked up. I very much fancy it. This bike just looks right. It will have to be an additional bike not replacing one of the BMs.
 
Rode to Shropshire, met up with a holidaying pal, we did 74 miles of mixed trails/lanes, rode home again. This is what this bike is all about for me.

Sure, there are better road bikes. More agile off-road machines too. But I don't think any off-the-shelf bike can do what the 790 does (without a Chris Birch type riding) with an experienced but average rider. What a day today! Fab.

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Rode to Shropshire, met up with a holidaying pal, we did 74 miles of mixed trails/lanes, rode home again. This is what this bike is all about for me.

Sure, there are better road bikes. More agile off-road machines too. But I don't think any off-the-shelf bike can do what the 790 does (without a Chris Birch type riding) with an experienced but average rider. What a day today! Fab.

What is the aux lighting you’ve fitted ?
 
These are the lights: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/741B-15W-Motorcycle-Headlights-Bright-Spotlights-6LED-Motorcycles-Work-Lights/173695102399?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Occasionally they turn up from a UK seller. As I've said on here before, they're a ball joint type light, so you can angle them where you want. Loads of places (usually) you can mount them and when they break (1 so far) they're cheap as chips to replace. Light output is ANNOYINGLY good. I'll post a pic later to show how I've mounted them.
 
Interesting to see on one of the early 'spy' shots the bash plate has the extra central cover. Surely this means they've left off fitting it on production models for a useful reason??

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Interesting to see on one of the early 'spy' shots the bash plate has the extra central cover. Surely this means they've left off fitting it on production models for a useful reason??

I think they left it off to save time for the owners that are changing the stupid peep peep horn for one audible to humans.
 
Seeing as the 790 Adventure appears not to have an immobiliser fitted I am uncertain about what to do about security. KTM's PowerParts alarm together with the £43 mounting kit costs about £330. Not sure if that would include fitting, but in order to be Thatcham approved it needs to be either fitted by a professional or certified afterwards.

KTM technical blurb...
Plug & play system – wiring harness ready for fitting
Fail-safe, dual-circuit immobilizer
Integrated microchip motion sensor
Stowage compartment under seat protected additionally with a reed switch
Two watertight, anti-scan radio transmitters with rolling code
Note:
An additional mounting kit is required for installation
Thatcham homologated (strictest European test method)

The alarm body and remotes looks identical to the £99 Meta DefconT, see https://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/a...iewProd&productId=87&_a=product&product_id=87

One of the guys on the Facebook group has fitted this £99 alarm apparently with no problems, see https://www.facebook.com/groups/1824483411197787/permalink/2160968504215941/

But I'm concerned that this alarm is described as a Thatcham 2 to Thatcham 1 upgrade so does it matter that this kit assumes the bike already has an immobiliser?

I also don't understand what the purpose is of the KTM-specific version which costs £125-£150, see https://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/a...wProd&productId=473&_a=product&product_id=473
 

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KTM alarms and immobilisers in my experience were rubbish, and an utter PITA.

Usually parking up for fuel entailed a blip blip blip feck b*ll*x alarm sound blip blip.

So I now use a disc lock when I stop and disc lock and chain when I park for any time.

There’s always at least a pound of butter in the fridge as well. (On the understanding that it’s as much use as an alarm).

Pragmasis kit is great and well priced.


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Seeing as the 790 Adventure appears not to have an immobiliser fitted I am uncertain about what to do about security. KTM's PowerParts alarm together with the £43 mounting kit costs about £330. Not sure if that would include fitting, but in order to be Thatcham approved it needs to be either fitted by a professional or certified afterwards.

KTM technical blurb...
Plug & play system – wiring harness ready for fitting
Fail-safe, dual-circuit immobilizer
Integrated microchip motion sensor
Stowage compartment under seat protected additionally with a reed switch
Two watertight, anti-scan radio transmitters with rolling code
Note:
An additional mounting kit is required for installation
Thatcham homologated (strictest European test method)

The alarm body and remotes looks identical to the £99 Meta DefconT, see https://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/a...iewProd&productId=87&_a=product&product_id=87

One of the guys on the Facebook group has fitted this £99 alarm apparently with no problems, see https://www.facebook.com/groups/1824483411197787/permalink/2160968504215941/

But I'm concerned that this alarm is described as a Thatcham 2 to Thatcham 1 upgrade so does it matter that this kit assumes the bike already has an immobiliser?

I also don't understand what the purpose is of the KTM-specific version which costs £125-£150, see https://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/a...wProd&productId=473&_a=product&product_id=473

But in the real world what use is an alarm ?

Unlike most biker mates on here, if I had an alarm on my bike and it went off in the middle of the night when parked up on a trip, I’m buggered if I’m going to to challenge some pikey or whoever is nicking it.......
 
But in the real world what use is an alarm ?

Unlike most biker mates on here, if I had an alarm on my bike and it went off in the middle of the night when parked up on a trip, I’m buggered if I’m going to to challenge some pikey or whoever is nicking it.......

An alarm is only any use when you are in ear shot as passers by don't give a toss generally, it may deter "lesser" thieves and hoodies, then again so will a disc lock as they have to make a load of noise removing it and have the tools to do so on them.

An alarm does not stop the "ped push" technique which I think is the favoured choice of the hoodie, the pros will lift it in a van pretty quickly and be on their way before you have put your slippers on.

In my experience of alarms they are a PITA and more likely to stop you going somewhere than prevent a thief having your bike away. My experience is limited due to the aggro of one my sister had fitted to a bike that regularly woke everyone up until we figured it did not like the battery tender - and without the battery tender it would shag the battery in no time.

I have recently obtained an alarmed disc lock on the basis it makes a bit of noise, stops the ped push and will at least take them a few seconds to grind through, probably enough to put most thieves off, plus I avoid parking the bike anywhere remotely dodgy, even on Holiday I avoid towns as much as possible and if I do want / need to stay in a town I make sure it has off road parking.
 
AQUA LEAK!

Looks like the thermostat housing and or seal.

Behind rad level with rocker cover(ish).

IMG_2457.jpg
IMG_2459.jpg


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AQUA LEAK!

Looks like the thermostat housing and or seal.

Behind rad level with rocker cover(ish).


When I had the serviced last week they told me there are several bolts that they had been told to check the torque setting.

Here’s hoping it’s a simple fix.

How many miles have you done now ?
 
When I had the serviced last week they told me there are several bolts that they had been told to check the torque setting.

Here’s hoping it’s a simple fix.

How many miles have you done now ?

Should be straight forward. Dropped to dealer just now so hoping they’ll find some time to sort it. Probably a new housing and seal and maybe a new hose for good measure. Simples.

While it’s apart I’m going to wrap the exhaust manifolds to limit any heat issues with that front plate fitted.

I’ve ordered a sheet of 3mm polypropylene to mould and reinforce the existing bash plate.

Then it’s off to Hilltop for the usual fake tuning

855 miles odo.


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Should be straight forward. Dropped to dealer just now so hoping they’ll find some time to sort it. Probably a new housing and seal and maybe a new hose for good measure. Simples.

While it’s apart I’m going to wrap the exhaust manifolds to limit any heat issues with that front plate fitted.

I’ve ordered a sheet of 3mm polypropylene to mould and reinforce the existing bash plate.

Then it’s off to Hilltop for the usual fake tuning

855 miles odo.


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‘Fake’ tuning .. mine ran better at slower speeds after servicing. Not sure why .
 
‘Fake’ tuning .. mine ran better at slower speeds after servicing. Not sure why .

Check they haven’t set the throttle response to “off-road” setting....it’s super smooth, but too lazy for road use really.


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While it’s apart I’m going to wrap the exhaust manifolds to limit any heat issues with that front plate fitted.

Been reading up on this a lot lately, find a lot of info about it ruining headers / manifolds, but most of ti is from the car world and referring to mild steel, hoping it will be OK on stainless as I want to wrap the 1290 CAT as I am sure that is what burns my right leg - would remove it for winter anyway as then it is a bonus! Also gives me a chance to check to see if it is ruining the exhaust.
 
Before you just go wrapping the exhaust are you sure it is compatible.

Some exhausts are constructed in such a way that they aid cooling the head slightly in that they conduct the heat away which is then immediately ‘air cooled’. If you wrap the exhaust then this heat dissipation is prevented and hence the head / exhaust valves get ‘cooked’

Just saying
 


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