Triumph Twin twinshock trials bike.

question for you

Back when this was built did they have 10 w 40 in motorcycles????

If not then what was in use then? Should be in it now :rob

I have had more than one NUMPTY think it a good idea to use Fully synth in airheads, one used that total pish Zero W 5 and another used 5W30

to say that it PISHED out every where and sounded like an out of adjustment pair of Krauser heads would be an understatement!!!!

My Advice is to go with the "period" oil viscosity :thumb (Which may well be 10W40 Becuase I iz too young! :augie )

Looking forward to more :popcorn
 
question for you

Back when this was built did they have 10 w 40 in motorcycles????

If not then what was in use then? Should be in it now :rob

I have had more than one NUMPTY think it a good idea to use Fully synth in airheads, one used that total pish Zero W 5 and another used 5W30

to say that it PISHED out every where and sounded like an out of adjustment pair of Krauser heads would be an understatement!!!!

My Advice is to go with the "period" oil viscosity :thumb (Which may well be 10W40 Becuase I iz too young! :augie )

Looking forward to more :popcorn

I have a BSA using the same frame and the oil of the day was a straight 30W, some still recommend that since there's no filter (just a strainer) and the theory is that straight oils suspend particles. However I use 20W50 in that bike, mineral of course.

I'm guessing Mark will use a spin on filter if he can find room for it :beerjug:

Anyway, hurry up I can't wait to hear it :D
 
Whilst waiting for other bits to arrive, I turned my attention to those that I had, that needed "modification". The carb is that close to the frame that a standard air filter won't fit. Taking an old, split intake boot from a TY gave me just enough angle to clear the downtube. The choke, or air valve, on the Amal was decreed redundant and removed. I blanked off the cable inlet with a bolt. The angled cable guide fitted earlier means a standard throttle cable inner is now too short, but that can be bodged with a screw on nipple. I bought a new clutch cable, longer than the kinked original, to fit trials bars. The inner was too long, so an extra adjuster was bodged on to make it work. Once I'm happy with everything, I'll get proper ones made up to length.

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With the air filter in place I can now finalise the oil feed pipe run for the rockers, and then fit the brackets for the head steady. These were cut from 2 inch angle, so could stand some prettifying at a later date.
A nice new shiny pair of Rockshocks have been under the bench since I ordered the frame.

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The yokes that should have been with the frame finally arrived, and were fitted.

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Now I can start on the pointy end. To keep the build costs down, I bought a second hand set of forks and wheels of a mate from the club. The forks were originally MZ, fitted with Montesa internals. They aren't pretty, but they work. There is room for improvement, which will be investigated further down the line. For the moment they do a good job of keeping the front end off the deck!

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The wheels are from a Triumph Tiger Cub, which I have already put new bearings and tyres on.
The fork brace was slightly narrower than required, nothing that a big hammer couldn't fix. Flattening the curvature slightly gave me the extra to make it work. Keeping to the theme of bodged cables, a TY front brake cable was almost perfect fit, if you count an inch too short as near perfect.

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My garage faces the road, so I wanted to wheel the bike around the back to try it out, but
the rear axle still hadn't arrived. I jacked the Whitehawk up and stole its rear wheel, axle and brake plate and stuck them in the back of the twin, along with an assortment of washers and spacers to get it in the right position. At least now it is mobile.
With the fuel tank fastened down another problem showed up, the tap was at the wrong angle and wouldn't turn on. Easily sorted for the moment, unfasten the tank and lift it up!
After a few kicks, a very lumpy twin grumbled into life. Adjusting the airscrew helped a little, but the freer flowing exhaust had affected the jetting. Tickover was ok, but the throtle had to be turned very gently to not stall. I was able to check that the oil was circulating, and I had a base to start from. The next days trial saw me with a list of questions for the experts.
Mark
 
Coming on nicely........:thumb2

AND...We have a couple of those poxy blue plant pots.....I didn't buy ours, I bet you didn't buy yours......;)

I love this stuff, please keep it coming......:)
 
All this work to ride in to trees,
Bushes,
Rocks,
Mud,
other competitors,
big holes and anything else that inconvieniently appears in front of you.
Anything's better than doing the bloody garden.

Thanks.

The Whitehawk is still in you possession?
 
My mate has just put some REH forks in his C15

They are a work of art and work very well
 
All this work to ride in to trees,
Bushes,
Rocks,
Mud,
other competitors,
big holes and anything else that inconvieniently appears in front of you.
Anything's better than doing the bloody garden.

Thanks.

The Whitehawk is still in you possession?

Spot on! And yes, I do still have a Whitehawk.
Mark
 
Coming on nicely........:thumb2

AND...We have a couple of those poxy blue plant pots.....I didn't buy ours, I bet you didn't buy yours......;)

I love this stuff, please keep it coming......:)

I haven't a clue where that pot came from, but Denise planted chives in it!
Mark
 
OMG - just come across this thread!
It's looking fantastic Mark - cracking job :thumb2
 
My mate has just put some REH forks in his C15

They are a work of art and work very well
I have MP forks on mine and they're shite but at least comply with strict pre 65 criteria :D

I'm very impressed Mark, you're doing a great job wI'll pop over next week for a gander :)
 
Great thread Mark taking me back to when i used to work on those engines myself, great motors.

Reference the plate on top of the gearbox cover. A situation could arise where one of the
gearchange pawls got jammed in the selector plate stopping the cover being removed and
it was one way round the problem to do what has been done to yours allowing access to push the pawl back.
The reason for the jamming was, that the pawls were retained by a split pin which could wear away and let go,
so allowing the pawl aided by it's spring to pop up through the selector plate stopping the end cover coming off to repair
the now not working gearchange mechanism.

Looking forward to further installments :thumb2
 
Great thread Mark taking me back to when i used to work on those engines myself, great motors.

Reference the plate on top of the gearbox cover. A situation could arise where one of the
gearchange pawls got jammed in the selector plate stopping the cover being removed and
it was one way round the problem to do what has been done to yours allowing access to push the pawl back.
The reason for the jamming was, that the pawls were retained by a split pin which could wear away and let go,
so allowing the pawl aided by it's spring to pop up through the selector plate stopping the end cover coming off to repair
the now not working gearchange mechanism.

Looking forward to further installments :thumb2

Fantastic Tony, that makes sense!
Cheers,
Mark
 


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