Africa Twin farkles list

how is everyone wiring all their farkles ? I want something to wire all my bits n pieces to :beerjug:











don't say the battery :D

BMW R1200 = Hez Ezcan

Africa Twin = Eastern Beaver PC8 with boost lead

Bandit 1250 = Straight to battery
 
are you happy with the pc8 is it easy to use ? can you have switch outlets that come on with ignition or are they all permanently live ?
:beerjug:

Yeah, I'm very happy with it. :thumb2

I think as default there's

6 x Switched Live
2 x Perminent Live

So I've got something like...

1 x Perminent = Battery Maint. Charger
1 x Perminent = Spare
1 x Switched = Front Camera
1 x Switched = Rear Camera
1 x Switched = Garmin Sat Nav
1 x Switched = Oxford Heated Grips
1 x Switched = Spare
1 x Switched = Spare

PLUS the extended Battery Booster Lead in case I need to jump start my bike from another battery, without having to access the battery tray.

:)
 
Yeah, I'm very happy with it. :thumb2

I think as default there's

6 x Switched Live
2 x Perminent Live

So I've got something like...

1 x Perminent = Battery Maint. Charger
1 x Perminent = Spare
1 x Switched = Front Camera
1 x Switched = Rear Camera
1 x Switched = Garmin Sat Nav
1 x Switched = Oxford Heated Grips
1 x Switched = Spare
1 x Switched = Spare

PLUS the extended Battery Booster Lead in case I need to jump start my bike from another battery, without having to access the battery tray.

:)

excellent that sounds perfect I wondered what the booster cable was for :blast:D:beerjug:
I want the booster cable plus
battery maint
heated jacket
sat nav
accessary charger
I might get some heated grips too
 
excellent that sounds perfect I wondered what the booster cable was for :blast:D:beerjug:

Yeah, for me this is a bloody great idea.

Riding off-road, if you're constantly restarting the bike the battery can become depleted (happened to one guy with an older bike while we were out once).

BUT on a DCT bike you can't do a rolling jump start (as you can't access the electronic DCT clutch without power).

So the ONLY option on a DCT is to jump it from someone elses battery. Which means you need access to the battery (and a Pain in the Ass to get to normally).

This Booster Lead you carry with you, and plug it into the wiring loom on the Eastern Beaver PC8 system. Then you have direct wiring straight to the battery which can handle high amps for a jump start.

Just unplug it when finished.

Great :D
 
Replaced the oe side stand with the Camel Adv Camel toe one. Such a difference in weight and presumably strength. It’s like comparing the Millennium Bridge to the Forth Bridge. :)
 

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Replaced the oe side stand with the Camel Adv Camel toe one. Such a difference in weight and presumably strength. It’s like comparing the Millennium Bridge to the Forth Bridge. :)

Great, I've got one as well. Much better.

Less likely to snap it off on a pivot turn.
 
Just wondered if the base plate of the Camel Toe side stand can get too close to the swinging arm, particularly when the bike is loaded and rear suspension compressed. Reason I ask is that some of the conventional type of extenders that fit onto the OEM side stand do mark the swinging arm despite the clearance looking ok before sitting on the bike. Could one of you guys please have a look at your bike and tell me what the clearance is when sitting on it, although it will be different for each rider weight and suspension set up, but would give me an idea, would be appreciated.
I am 14 st and the standard shocker pre-load is about 80% of maximum.
Many thanks.
 
I had a foot extender fitted to the oe stand before fitting the Camel replacement. No problems with it coming near the swingarm and funnily enough, I checked out the difference in size between the two before fitting and the foot extender was actually larger than the Cameltoe. Therefore, I foresee no problems whatever weight you are. :okay
 
Thanks Davy, it must just be the cheap Fleabay version someone gave me (probably why it was free) which has quite a thick base which causes it to touch the swing arm. Will spend the pennies and invest in the pukka item, cheers.
 
Placebo effect !

What with the rise of anger against noisy pipes this year, I decided to be a responsible motorcyclist and fit the Arrow catalytic insert to my full system. Easy fit, has cut down the pops and bangs on the overrun and made it ever so slightly quieter. Performance...can’t say I really notice any difference. At least I now have a sticker that says my system meets whatever legislation is required, so I can look forward to trips abroad with a clear conscience !!
 

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I fitted the arrow cat insert within a day of fitting the system without it the exhaust was too loud especially when accelerating, now I personally think it sounds much nicer especially as the tone has changed.

It’s not effected the performance at all.
 
I’ve just got my bike back from PLR Suspension after having the forks and rear shock rebuilt with K-Tech gubbins. What a difference !! I was kinda sceptical that I’d have wasted a shed load of £££ and not feel any real difference, but happily that wasn’t the case. Looking back now, the bike was quite harsh and now there’s a compliance whist still feeling firm. I certainly feel that it was money well spent and having the bike set up for me and how I ride is a nice treat. Sadly, there’s nothing new and shiny to see bar the rear spring and some nice stickers. :D
 

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£750…not in and out, bike had to be left for a couple of days.

I did have other options. Forks redone (seals, revalved, springs) and a Wilbers rear shock @ £1100 and then the same front mods with an Ohlins rear shock @ £1600. I went cheap !! :aidan
 
Cheers
I have a Nitron rear fitted and got new fork springs sometime ago....just need them fitting...but half expect a decent fitting place to tell me I need a new spring on the Nitron to balance stuff.
 


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