Non-Servo ABS Variant Coding

AlexG

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I think I already know the answer to the following, but posting on the off-chance I am wrong...

So ABS nadgered up I have just fitted a secondhand replacement from a later bike (same part number), bled it OK using GS-911, but it is throwing a variant coding error, I assumed I would be able to change it using the GS-911, but there is nothing obvious.

Is going to BMW really the only option for re-coding? Internet search indicates it is.

I am about as far away as possible from a BMW dealer and MoT has expired so not really keen to rely on this option.

It looks like I can swap the electronic module across from the original unit to the replacement, which I assume will resolve the issue, but I would prefer not to split the 'new' unit if avoidable, hence the question.
 
There's a few guys got the dealer set up.
Where in the country are you ?

It's not a big job to split the ecu off the modular.
I would be doing that rather than visiting the dealer.
 
I'm North Devon.

I have already removed the ECU from the original ABS module.

I was just wondering if there is a shortcut to avoid removing everything all over again (bit of a doh moment to be fair, I considered swapping the ECU over at the start of the job, but decided leaving the assembly alone was the better option).
 
I bit the bullet and got on with swapping the ECU to the replacement unit, bled fine and no faults with ignition on, though tank etc is still off for something else so i have not actually ridden the bike yet to get up to the 'ABS on' speed.
 
Just in case anyone ends up reading this thread in the future...swapping the ecu from the original ABS module to one from a later bike works fine, for example my bike is a 2007, the replacement ABS module is from a 2012 (the part numbers for the complete assemblies is the same on RealOEM).

No fault codes or warning light and the rear circuit can be felt operating with a stamp on the brake pedal.

To remove the ECU from the ABS module undo the 4 T20 set screws and pull the ECU off the hydraulic bit, it has some sliding fittings inside so it has to remain square while being slid off. Mine was pretty manky and the screw heads fairly rusty, but the assembly separated really easily by hand.

Fitting is simply the reverse, i used instinct for torque.
 


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