Brake pad wear at the rear...

EVskij said:
Those pads are very strange as they are : A-black, B- no wear groves.

Pads I have in my GSA are on a copper? coloured backing plates with rear wheel site having an extra lining on the back face and a stainless steel backing plate.

Are those genuine BMW parts? Seem like they are but don’t look it....


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They are genuine pads, not from a 1200lc, point is that original parts fail sometimes, more likely to de-laminate the closer they get to wear limit, I was very lucky with these, half way down a french alp and the next dab of rear brake would have been metal to metal, it doesn't matter what model your bike is, the thinner the pad material gets the more likely to de-laminate, and of course much greater heat transfer
 
Easyrider5258 (Mark) said:
They are genuine pads, not from a 1200lc, point is that original parts fail sometimes, more likely to de-laminate the closer they get to wear limit, I was very lucky with these, half way down a french alp and the next dab of rear brake would have been metal to metal, it doesn't matter what model your bike is, the thinner the pad material gets the more likely to de-laminate, and of course much greater heat transfer
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Ahh I see, I thought yours are from LC.....

Regarding de-lamination, heat transfer etc..... point taken. New pads will be coming with me when going away on my holidays.


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The dealer says this, the dealer says that....
Don't you guys routinely glance over safety critical parts yourselves every now & again?

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Phil-H said:
The dealer says this, the dealer says that....
Don't you guys routinely glance over safety critical parts yourselves every now & again?

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I do, as my initial post suggested, I am only pointing out what I finding and making a point that my bike isn’t desperate for new pads as dealer was adamant it would need. Dealer will make money from parts and if they can claim that you need it and put fear in to you, then they will replace them even if parts are still perfectly serviceable. That is my point.

So it is worth checking yourself, considering that to pull pads out on all 3 callipers, you need a T30 key/wrench, long nose pliers, a brass wire brush or similar, GT-85 or WD-40 to clean up callipers and old copper slip from the back of the pads, a rag, some copper slip and 30 minutes of your time.

EV


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Can't you do a pad inspection without removing them?

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I recently took my BMW car to an independent workshop for a service after being quoted stupid money by my local dealer.
The indie has the full BMW computer and showed me what he strongly suspects our local dealer does.... He plugged the car in and set the computer to conduct a download from the cars ecu/brain. A long lists of stats come back including brake wear
He told me that the wheels had not been off my car for years even though it had a full BMW service history.

He suspects they don't even physically look at the brakes and just quote to the customer that the brakes are at a certain wear point based on the computer. The customer obviously assumes that his/her car has had a good inspection (as they have been bloody charged for one).

I wonder if the same is true on bikes.............? This might explain inaccurate advice on brake wear rates.
 
Phil-H said:
Can't you do a pad inspection without removing them?

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You can, a bit difficult to see on the rear set, but it is worth taking them out and giving things a clean. Remember, brake dust is corrosive to some degree.


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JerseyNeil said:
I recently took my BMW car to an independent workshop for a service after being quoted stupid money by my local dealer.
The indie has the full BMW computer and showed me what he strongly suspects our local dealer does.... He plugged the car in and set the computer to conduct a download from the cars ecu/brain. A long lists of stats come back including brake wear
He told me that the wheels had not been off my car for years even though it had a full BMW service history.

He suspects they don't even physically look at the brakes and just quote to the customer that the brakes are at a certain wear point based on the computer. The customer obviously assumes that his/her car has had a good inspection (as they have been bloody charged for one).

I wonder if the same is true on bikes.............? This might explain inaccurate advice on brake wear rates.
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Bikes having heal of allot electronics nowadays, it wouldn’t surprise me if same or similar practise being used.


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EVskij said:
Obviously has.... but would you go with OEM or alternatives?


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I ordered a set of what I considered to be the correct material & spec from Ebay, they were listed as Brembo & the instruction sheet said brembo, they looked identical when I dropped the originals. I think they were approx £35
 
While you are checking the rear brake pads, measure the disc thickness. If my experience is anything to go by the rear disc wears quickly. It may need a new disc by the next service or brake pads change so I have been told. About £100 from motorworks. Don't know what the wear limits are.
 
tanneman said:
While you are checking the rear brake pads, measure the disc thickness. If my experience is anything to go by the rear disc wears quickly. It may need a new disc by the next service or brake pads change so I have been told. About £100 from motorworks. Don't know what the wear limits are.
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Good to know thank you.


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disc thickness from the manual




Brakes
Front wheel
Type of front brake Hydraulically actuated twin-disc brake with 4-pis-
ton radial monobloc calipers and floating brake
discs
Brake-pad material, front Sintered metal
Brake disc thickness, front min 4 mm, Wear limit
Play of brake controls (Front brake) approx. 1.85 mm, at pistonType of rear brake Hydraulically actuated disc brake with 2-piston
floating caliper and fixed disc
Brake-pad material, rear Organic material
Brake disc thickness, rear min 4.5 mm, Wear limit
Blow-by clearance of the footbrake lever 1 mm, between frame and footbrake lever
 
This is getting silly now. EBC ceramic pads lasted just over 3,000 miles and I’ve purposely not used the rear brake pedal. Worn almost to the metal.


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This is getting silly now. EBC ceramic pads lasted just over 3,000 miles and I’ve purposely not used the rear brake pedal. Worn almost to the metal.

they're linked with front brakes are they not?
maybe bias is wrong in some way?



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vRSG60 said:
This is getting silly now. EBC ceramic pads lasted just over 3,000 miles and I’ve purposely not used the rear brake pedal. Worn almost to the metal.


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How much material is on them as they don't have with much to begin with?
 
Next to nothing. I think they are 3mm brake material thickness when new. These are nearly down to the metal.
 
gazkitchen said:
This is getting silly now. EBC ceramic pads lasted just over 3,000 miles and I’ve purposely not used the rear brake pedal. Worn almost to the metal.

they're linked with front brakes are they not?
maybe bias is wrong in some way?



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[/QUOTE]

They are designed for the rear to come on first.
If you do a lot of comfort braking and/or commuting it does tend to gobble up rear pads, you may well be pulling the front brake lever but is only activating the rear.
 
The reason I believe they wear out so quick is its second nature to trail rear brake in when rattling on in corners and this linked braking is already doing it for you so the experienced rider cant tell what already being used which then adds up to twice the pressure on the rear ( its handy if you haven't a clue how to ride ) wish you could turn it off !! its good if you don't have a right leg . Why don't they allow you to adjust preload and damping on each individual shocker with all this wizztrickery available . They've gone key less because half of them are clueless .
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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