Top Dead Centre Tool - 2017 R1200GS Adventure

Tomorrow it'll get stripped down further, getting ready for the Ohlins kit... which should be delivered this week..
 
Smogbob said:
bet you swap back in a week
Click to expand...

I very much doubt that.

ESA is great when it works. But the standard BMW shocks get tired very quickly. Mine are starting to fail now after only 14,000 miles from new.

Cavitation & heat buildup is ruining the ride. I think my front shock has dumped all its oil anyways, hardly any damping from the front end now.

Will be glad to get a proper set of dampers fitted
 
Warlord said:
I very much doubt that.

ESA is great when it works. But the standard BMW shocks get tired very quickly. Mine are starting to fail now after only 14,000 miles from new.

Cavitation & heat buildup is ruining the ride. I think my front shock has dumped all its oil anyways, hardly any damping from the front end now.

Will be glad to get a proper set of dampers fitted
Click to expand...

Get them changed by warranty first, and then stick your Ohlins on, that way you have a brand new set if you sell your bike.
 
Smogbob said:
Get them changed by warranty first, and then stick your Ohlins on, that way you have a brand new set if you sell your bike.
Click to expand...

Yes I thought about that, but I honestly can't be doing with the hassle of waiting, then BMW insisting to refit the new ESA replacements, calibrating it all, for me to then rip it all out again days later. They'll only replace the front anyways, not everything.

Honestly, I'd rather send my old ESA stuff to Firefox Racing and have them rebuild it properly.

My bike then only has to put up with being taken apart once.
 
Warlord said:
Yes I thought about that, but I honestly can't be doing with the hassle of waiting, then BMW insisting to refit the new ESA replacements, calibrating it all, for me to then rip it all out again days later. They'll only replace the front anyways, not everything.

Honestly, I'd rather send my old ESA stuff to Firefox Racing and have them rebuild it properly.

My bike then only has to put up with being taken apart once.
Click to expand...

Valid point.............:D
 
You’ll love the Ohlins, the difference is noticeable within the first mile.
 
Warlord said:
What wasn't made clear to me was how the TDC Lockout Tool is used.

Working on the left hand side cylinder, the TDC Lockout Tool needs to use pin 'A'

Working on the right hand side cylinder, the TDC Lockout Tool needs to be reinserted to use pin 'B'

This then correctly aligns and secures both sides at the correct position for valve checking etc.
Click to expand...

Just to make a point clear...there is NO use of the "B" pin during valve timing checks on WetHeads!

If you did install the "B" pin, which is only 6mm in diameter, into the 8mm slot in the outer edge of the alternator rotor, then all of your adjustments for the RH cylinder are off.
 
Boxflyer said:
Just to make a point clear...there is NO use of the "B" pin during valve timing checks on WetHeads!

If you did install the "B" pin, which is only 6mm in diameter, into the 8mm slot in the outer edge of the alternator rotor, then all of your adjustments for the RH cylinder are off.
Click to expand...

So this is what I did.

On Left Cylinder I rotated 6th gear around until the two lazer etched bar codes were opposite to each other. Inserted the TDC lockout pin 'A' into the Access Hole. CLICK.

Then I did the valve checks and cam alignment adjustments with the tensioner tool and alignment tool. Then removed the lockout pin.

On Right Cylinder I noted the lazer etched bar codes were now not opposite each other, so I rotated 6th gear around until the two lazer etched bar codes were opposite each other.

At this point I noted that the 6mm pin hole was now in alignment with the Access Hole. So I refitted the TDC Tool side 'B' which locked it out.

Then I did the valve checks and cam alignment adjustments with the tensioner tool and alignment tool. Then removed the lockout pin.

So where did I go wrong :D
 
Oh bollocks :D

You know when you read something back and you think... hmmm

Ok, the right hand cylinder will be redone this morning. :D
 
According to my DVD, the 8mm pin is for TDC, both cylinders, and 6mm for BDC.

This makes sense, as the very same hole is used for both cylinders. The only difference between the left and right cylinder check is that the crank has been rotated 360 degrees.
 
knutk said:
According to my DVD, the 8mm pin is for TDC, both cylinders, and 6mm for BDC.

This makes sense, as the very same hole is used for both cylinders. The only difference between the left and right cylinder check is that the crank has been rotated 360 degrees.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's me and my brain fart.

Just re-done the right hand cylinder using TDC 8mm and pre-tensioner tool and the alignment jig went straight on.

So I got lucky as no re-adjustment was needed :D
 
Another question..

The bolt on the end of the Cam Shafts.... in the video you say torque it to 56Nm

But in my Haynes Manual it says...Camshaft Driven Gear Bolts... 65Nm

Can you confirm which is correct?
 
In the Description just below the video, I've made a BOLD note about my error in the video. Yes, the bolts are supposed to be torqued to 65Nm, not 56Nm as I say. This is also listed correctly in the Torque Sheet in the Description also.
 
Boxflyer said:
In the Description just below the video, I've made a BOLD note about my error in the video. Yes, the bolts are supposed to be torqued to 65Nm, not 56Nm as I say. This is also listed correctly in the Torque Sheet in the Description also.
Click to expand...

Ok great, that's what I've done... torqued to 65Nm

Just to note... If people click the link to your video's and it plays the video on this forum, you won't see your Description Notes or Comments, only the video itself.

It's only if you launch YouTube App outside of this forum that you'll get to see the amendment notes (if you bother to read them).

It might be worth adding this into the video itself as a Note on the screen so people can see it.

:D
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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