Granny on the Steppes (Mongolia to Kyrgyzstan)

Mide

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In 2016, we shipped our bikes to Magadan in Siberia, rode the Old Summer Road section of the road of bones, and left the bikes in Ulaanbataar, Mongolia.

Ride report here: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showth...Siberia?highlight=Granny+on+the+road+of+bones

The intention was to return in the summer of 2017 to pick the bikes up and ride them closer to home.
However, we got sidetracked ride report is one of the sticky’s on here - Top of the World- trip to the Andes.

Kev had been in Mongolia before. He rode his bike from Magadan home to Dublin in 2012. At that time there was asphalt from Ulan Ude in Russia to Ulaanbataar, and from Ulaanbataar west for maybe 100km. That was it. We had heard that there was much more tarmac there now.

So, in July of this year, we flew to Ulaanbataar to pick up the bikes. We had left them in a customs warehouse, so were fairly confident they were safe. They’d been sitting there for 23 months, so both needed services, new batteries and some tlc. Kev’s 690 had had radiator issues in Magadan so he had no idea how it would have fared sitting in a warehouse through 2 harsh winters.
We also weren’t entirely sure what we had left with the bikes!

We flew out on 24th July, hoping that we’d get going in 3/4 days.
Fritz, who had been in Siberia with us but had shipped his bike home, shipped it back to ub to do this trip with us. He flew out the day after us.

We arrived in ub and went straight to Oasis guesthouse, a renowned hostel/guesthouse for overlanders. Kev had been there twice before, in 2012 and 2016.
One of the lads there with Kev in 2016, Gary, had a contact there. A local woman, Oggie, had lived in Ireland 10 year previously and had looked after Gary’s cousin’s kids.

We had contacted her before we left and she arrived into Oasis shortly after we did. She was such a huge help over the next few days, getting our bikes out of customs and helping Fritz get his bike too.

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So Kev worked on the bikes for a couple of days. My bike started first time, all it needed was a battery. What a fabulous little bike!

Kev’s needed a lot more encouragement. He got them both services and topped up with various liquids, changed the tyres as we had spares there. Then, noticed a leak in his rad:(

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Fritz arrived, got his bike through customs and back to Oasis.
The weather was atrocious. It rained and rained. While everyone at home was basking in glorious sunshine, we were being absolutely pissed on!

When the sun came out, it dried up very quickly, but then it rained again.

I have to say, I wouldn’t go back to Oasis. The staff weren’t very nice or helpful. The food wasn’t great and very overpriced. The showers were shite!and dirty! The manger was rude and unhelpful when we suggested she might have made a mistake with the price(she had-it was a mutual misunderstanding) the beds were horribly hard, and the pillows weren’t worth having. Just imo. The only plus was that we met other overlanders.

On the Saturday we left Oasis and headed east to see the Chinggis Khaan statue.
It was the first day on the bikes, it was lashing rain, and Kev had to be push started. You’d think that would’ve given a little clue as to what was to come:)

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It was only 100kms there and back to ub. Our intention had been to go east, see the statue, then come back to ub and head south towards the Gobi Desert, and maybe camp after 150kms, but the weather was so bad, the asphalt was so lumpy and bumpy, the traffic was so bad, that we got back to ub and decided to find a hotel. We got a really nice hotel, with really nice showers and reasonable pillows, and our own rooms, for less than we paid in Oasis! And free dressing gowns:)

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Good start Mide.
Looking forward to it
 
Was at your presentation in Enniskillen and it was fascinating.

Looking forward to this report :popcorn
 
Really enjoyed your last epic adventure, very much looking forward to this one. :cool: The picture of you with the Eagle reminded me of a Film my granddaughter watched with me about the first girl to become an eagle huntress.
Will keep checking in to see how you are all doing.:beerjug:

Andrew
 
Good one Mide and Kev, yes the staff at the Oasis weren't best pleased when we were there......I guess the 3 prostitutes on their premises didn't help :D
 
Good one Mide and Kev, yes the staff at the Oasis weren't best pleased when we were there......I guess the 3 prostitutes on their premises didn't help :D

There’s a story I haven’t heard yet!! 🤣
 
The next morning we got up early to get on the road as we were now a little behind where we wanted to be.

As we had pulled in the night before, Fritz’s bike had cut out and he’d pushed it into the garage. So we knew that needed to be looked at next morning.

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Turns out the ignition was blowing a fuse, so they had to rewire from the fuse box up to the ignition switch.

It took a while to figure it out so we we didn’t leave til about 11.30/12. We had to ride through ub to get to the road south. We wanted to go to the glacier field in the Yoliin Am Valley in the Gobi Desert.

We didn’t even make it out of ub before the first stop! Fritz’s fuse blew again!

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The nice man in the garage drove Fritz to get a handful of fuses at the fuse shop

We got to the road south, and had to stop at toll booth. Kev turned off the engine to talk to the girl in the booth and then the bike wouldn’t start!
So we got out a strap and I wrapped it round Fritz’s foot peg and Kev’s foot peg and Fritz tried towing him to bump start it. I’d jump on my bike, follow them and wrap the strap on and off they’d go again. The bike just wouldn’t start :(
So, we pulled over and they started stripping the bike down.

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He ended up changing the fuel pump as the one in it had jammed.
So that took up another couple of hours. We hit the road again, it was a lovely, new tarmac road so we got about 350km done before we stopped for the day. Kev could see big changes in the 6 years since he’d been here. There were more petrol stations along the way and also cafes and toilets. I use the term loosely

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And so began 2 weeks of gloopy, soupy, noodley, rubbery meaty food. The choice was pretty much the same everywhere, and it was tasteless and chewy everywhere.

Fritz brought bubbles with him, so he was a hit with the kids everywhere

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We stopped in a village called Mandalagovi. We pulled into the first hotel and went in. It was awful!! We could have a big room with loads of beds in for very cheap, but there was no shower!
Luckily, we decided to see if there were anymore hotels anywhere and found a much better one. Mind you, he didn’t tell us there was no electricity until after we’d paid! It did come back later so we were able to charge our phones and cameras. There was a shower in our room so that was a plus

We went to the restaurant for dinner that eve and, while we were there a group of German women came in. They had come from down south, they too were trying to go to the glacier field. But, the massive amounts of rain in Mongolia over the previous weeks had flooded the Gobi. The roads were impassable. There was mud to waist height in places. The flood was 120km wide! The police weren’t letting anyone pass.
So, we had to have a re think. There were hot springs out west, so we decided we’d go there.
Kev’s bike was proving difficult to start every time he turned it off. Seemed like he needed a new starter motor clutch.
We decided to call the ktm shop in ub and see if they had one in stock and if they did, we’d go to the hotsprings and then back to ub to get the bike sorted.
A local guy, with a bit of German, made the call for us. It was a little complicated, as kev gad to explain to Fritz what he needed, Fritz then had to tell the guy, who then had to relay it to the ktm guy. It was like Chinese whispers! The ktm shop said they’d ring back later and let us know.
So we set off. We were off road all day, plenty of sand and gravel and wide, wide open space. It’s hard to describe the vastness of Mongolia. We were riding through plains, that we’re flat for as far as the eye could see, for miles and miles and miles. Often there were mountains in the far distance, and you eventually get to the mountain, go through the pass and come into another ginormous plain, that went on for miles and miles and miles!

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We stopped for lunch and had missed a call from the ktm shop. Kev called back and they could fix the starter motor. We decided then that we’d head back to ub, get it fixed and then head to the hotsprings as there was no point in going west to come back easy to go west again.

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This was normal in all the villages, animals wandering around everywhere.

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The bike was also now overheating. So once he got started he couldn’t stop for any length of time. So if we had to stop to pee he had to ride in circles, then he nearly ran out of petrol cos he had to keep going and coming back

He knew then that we needed to stop at the top of a hill, so he could roll down it and bump start it in the morning. So we had our first night camping. It was one of the nicest places I’ve ever camped.

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The hill doesn’t look steep, but it really was, so kev had no problem getting the bike going the next morning. We were back in ub by 12ish that day. We found the ktm workshop which is mikes away from the ktm shop. The traffic was awful in the city and both the boys bikes were over heating and both the boys were getting their knickers in a twist�� I have no clocks, no dash, nothing at all on my bike. It might’ve been just about to explode but I’d no flashing lights so was happy out

We booked back into the same hotel we’d stayed in on sat night, and booked a massage, and went back to the wonderful Indian restaurant we had found around the corner

All the hotels left a box/pack of freebies in the room.

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The bikes were going to be ready at 11 the next day. We’d left them all there. Fritz’s was overheating and my registration plate had come off. Luckily, Fritz saw it go and went back to pick it up. I would’ve had huge problems at the Russian border without it.

Oggie came over and picked us up next day and brought us to the garage.

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It was about 4.30 before we got out of there and we headed straight into rush hour traffic. An hour later we were still in ub and the boys bikes were both overheating again, and next thing, Kev’s bike stopped again and wouldn’t start.
Ah lads, he was fit to kill Oggie was still with us and she rang the ktm guys and gave them an earful and insisted they come to us to help.
They did come out and spent about 2 hours trying to get it going. This time it was the throttle position sensor! They did their best to fix it at the side if the road but didn’t have the tools to fix it so they brought it back to the garage. We booked into a local hotel, again.
It was like we just couldn’t get out of Ulaanbataar!
Next morning, Kev went and picked the bike up. It was running perfectly, he came back a happy man

So, once again, we left ub, after a hearty breakfast.
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This time heading due west, hoping to get to the hotsprings by the evening.




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Was at your presentation in Enniskillen and it was fascinating.

Looking forward to this report :popcorn

Thank you:)

Really enjoyed your last epic adventure, very much looking forward to this one. :cool: The picture of you with the Eagle reminded me of a Film my granddaughter watched with me about the first girl to become an eagle huntress.
Will keep checking in to see how you are all doing.:beerjug:

Andrew

Thank you;) I couldn't believe how heavy the eagle was!
 
We managed to get out of Ub that day, and we haven’t been back since:)
We had a long run on tarmac today, which, while easy on the one hand, is really hard going on your ass it’s also hard going on a 230cc bike when you’re riding with bigger bikes. We were doing about 69/65 mph which is top end of what my bike can do.
It was lashing rain again.
We stopped for lunch at a big services, like any you’d find here if in Europe, only with shite food🤣
There were 3 bikes outside when we got there. We went in and got our food, nodded at the other bikers and sat down. They finished eating and came over to us. They were Japanese men, all in their 70’s or more, one of them definitely 80, riding around Mongolia.
They had family members there too, that were driving in a support vehicle.

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We carried on and the rain stopped. We got to our turn off, went through the village and again we’re in the wide open spaces. This time though, it was hilly and very green, with fir trees. You could actually mistake it for Austria or anywhere alpine.

We were following a track, but the tracks all kinda came and went and crossed and divided, so you were never really sure where you were going. But it didn’t really matter as long as you knew what direction you were heading.
We rode for ages. It was easy off-road, with the occasional rough bit to keep you on your toes!
There were so many herds of animals there.
We eventually came to a river, that looked to me to be too deep and too fast to cross. It was also late in the day.
We stopped to see what we should do, rode up and down both sides to see if the crossing was any easier anywhere else but it wasn’t. Kev decided he’d ride across. He went in and the current pushed him over. Fritz ran in and helped him get the bike out.

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We decided we’d camp there that night and either cross the river in the morning or we’d have to go back the way we came as it appeared we’d missed a bridge at the beginning after the village!

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That’s where we camped, at these trees

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Kev filtering the river water for our tea.

We got up the next day and reassessed the river. It was lower but still quite fast.
Fritz walked it and figured out the best way to go. After much debating, we picked a line, and crossed the river uneventfully, although my heart was definitely in my mouth. It’s always the same, first river crossing is flippin terrifying, and the more you do, the less scary they get. Then you do no crossings for a few days, come to a river and it’s terrifying all over again!

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Off we went again, for about 300m and there was another river, or maybe the same one, but we couldn’t cross it, it was too deep in the middle.
So, back we went, back over the same river, with much less todo this time.

We stopped to ask some locals the way.

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They pointed across the river and we knew we’d already tried that. We turned back the way we came the previous day and went back to the main road.
We parked the bikes beside the horses and went in for a bit of breakfast.

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We looked at the menu and had no idea what we were ordering!

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Probably best not knowing.

A local man with a bit of English offered to show us where the bridge was.
He had a 4x4 and we had a really hard time keeping up with him off-road!

Once we got to the bridge he told us to ride til we came to the hill with the stones on top the turn right after the forest and go over the hill. Jaysus!! Talk about vague, there were hills with stones atop them aplenty! Forests everywhere. Fritz seemed to know exactly where we were going so if he went and we followed. These were 4 photos I took turning 90 degrees between each one.

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Sure enough, we came to a hill and we turned right and after the appropriate number of kilometers we arrived at the hot springs.
There were dark clouds looming so we booked into a gur. Gur is Mongolian version of a yurt.

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It wasn’t very clean and it wasn’t very comfortable but it was better than a tent in the rain and a wet tent going back in the bag.

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The springs were disappointing to look at but nice to swim in

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There were loads of these little fellas around!

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The eagles here were just amazing. There were so many there. The sound was so unusual, every time I heard it I thought of the Disney film Mulan, and the Huns!

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This was a real tourist place, full of Japanese, Europeans, Russians. Loads of children too, French and Italian families.

We left early the next day, we had a lot of miles to get under our belt. It was mainly tarmac again today. We were riding down the road and the next thing Kev just turned right off the road onto a dirt track. He’d seen cars turning down and just followed, and wow, what a sight!

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Kev has a love of all things water, so we stopped at every lake that was even remotely on our route.

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There’s just no getting away from the washing up!

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We met some local bikers.

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They had fun with Fritzy’s machete!

We got back on the road after our cup a soup lunch, the glorious sunshine disappeared and dark clouds came overhead. One of the amazing things about Mongolia is that it’s so vast that you can see everything from miles away, even weather. There was this massive, black cloud with big fat black rain falling in front of us. There was a gap over to the left, then another cloud with big rain to the left and farther back. We were heading straight for the big one and then the road veered left away from it. We passed it by and I thought we were free and clear, but no, the road veered right again, straight into it. It was torrential, and it hurt. It was stinging my arms, I’d to lift my elbows up and out to avoid the rain pelting into my inner arms. Visibility was dreadful, there was so much water in the road, bouncing back up at us. It lasted maybe 25/30 minutes and just after it stopped we came to a village. There was a huge deluge of mud and stones across the road, there must have been a bit of a landslide. We stopped for petrol and asked about a hotel. She pointed us towards a hotel, so over we went.
We pulled up outside and asked if they had a room. They told us to bring the bikes around the back. There was bits of white everywhere, I went over to see what it was. Hailstones! As big as marbles! No wonder my arms were hurting!!

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This was the first of our dodgy hotels. We were all sharing a room. I took this photo from my bed.

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We had to carry so much stuff in and out from the bikes!

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There was no shower, anywhere. The toilet was sooooo far away. Down a corridor to the door that I took this photo out of. That’s the toilet down the back there. The steps down were lethal, steep and slippy.

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We had asked if there was food and she had nodded. We were trying to find out what was on offer, but she didn’t understand. We had a translator but it only translated individual words. No one seemed to understand the small bit of Russian we had either. So we asked for eggs and bread. She nodded again. Next thing, the husband is sent off out in the car, down the shops:)
He came back with 2 loaves of bread and a tray of eggs and gave them to us.
Then we had to try explain we needed her to cook them :)
This was dinner.

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We had it again next day for breakfast!



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The joys of motorcycling, loving it! Did Kev do a deal to take the dressing gown home? Something for Halloween to scare the kids from the front door. ;-)
 
Sorry for the delay! We’ve been in Leenane all weekend on a fabulous Gser do

After our egg breakfast, we headed off for the day. We went off road again today. Heading south. There was another lake we were hoping to see and camp at. We had a fantastic days riding, but the gps was playing up and we weren’t entirely sure where we were going. As I already said, there aren’t tracks as such, so as long as we were heading in the right direction, we were happy enough.

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And then we came to a big river!

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You can’t really see it in the pics but it was really fast flowing. Kev walked it over and back and it was just too deep. While they’d been looking at the big old truck, Kev had noticed a big inner tube, so he went off to get it. They were going to float the bikes across the river.

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Kev went over to tie the string into a tree on the other side but when he came back, we decided that it was just too risky, we had no idea what was to come. If we came to another river in another while that we couldn’t cross, we’d only have to come back again!
So, we turned around and headed back north towards the main road again.

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We’d had a really long day, with very little food, and when we stopped that evening, we were in a hotel 40kms from the hotel we’d stayed in last night!

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This hotel was in a bigger village than last night, but it wasn’t any better! We carried all our stuff upstairs again. We’d spotted a cafe on the way in, so we thought we’d go and have a bite to eat. There was a supermarket downstairs, so we went in and, because we were hungry, we bought a load of oul shite! Sweets and crisps and stuff. It was possibly better for us than some of the food we’d been eating though.
There was no shower in this hotel either and again, the toilet was far, far away. I can’t even remember the toilet, I may have blanked it from my memory🤣

We were still heading west, towards the lake, we were hoping to camp at the lake. We’d only camped 2 nights so far. The hotels were cheap, we were generally tired and hungry by the time we stopped for the day, and the weather had been pretty bad. There’s nothing worse than packing up a wet tent!

The scenery and the weather were good today

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We stopped for lunch and the children came out to play, and sing for us.

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Some pics of us on the road

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We had a long day today, about 500kms. We were really pushing for the lake.
We had stopped for petrol and a local guy came up and offered me a go on his bike.

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The last couple of hundred kms was tarmac.
I don’t really know what I was expecting at this lake. But when we got there, it was just a lake. No grass or trees or shade or shelter. It was also really windy, and very overcast. So when we stopped, we weren’t all that sure that the tents wouldn’t get blown away as, we were fairly confident that it was going to lash rain. We pulled off the road onto the beach. As it happened, we had just gone over a bit of a bridge, so we decided we’d pitch the tents under the bridge.

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We had some ready meals with us, so we tucked in.

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After the pot noodles, we made tea with water from the lake. We used the filter but it tasted awful. We presumed it was a freshwater lake seeing as we were so inland, but it tasted really salty. Later on, we were at another lake, and it was full of minerals, so we reckon that’s what this lake had too.

We had a good nights sleep and in the morning, the boys went for a swim.

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It had rained a bit in the night but it didn’t matter, the tents were still dry.

We packed up, and started another day. We’d only gone a few kilometers when the whole terrain around us became sandy. It was fabulous, so we had to go off road for a bit.

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There was a beautiful tarmac road most of the way, but we went off road a couple of times to have a look at different things!

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Sure enough, once we stopped and got off the bikes, a shepherd appeared on a bike and walked around our bikes having a good look.

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We reached Ulaangom that evening and found a nice hotel, with a shower room en suite!! So after our first shower in days, we went out on the town, as you do on a Wednesday:)

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Livin’ the dream




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