Battery/electrical issue?

Thanks for the info internaught, I didn't know about the Hicap kit from motorworks but it makes sense.

I shall make up a set of leads to run in parallel with my existing leads this winter using some OFC cable and crimped eyes at work. £68.50 versus no cost and five minutes of cutting and crimping.
 
It puzzles the life out of me does all this. The differences in the bikes, batteries, leads, starters etc etc.
My bike, a 2011 TC with just short of 70k up of which i've added 50k in about 4 years and in that time it's
never failed to start no matter the weather and in temperatures ranging from -10 to + 45C,
When i bought the bike i put a Motobatt on it that had seen service on my previous bike so it's now done well
over 50k and is over 4 years old; still going strong and fires the GS up even after being stood for a couple of weeks.
I have never touched the starter, never needed to, not got any special leads, connectors or anything, just the standard set up.
The only dodge the bike has when starting is (it's always done this) the engine turns then stops momentarily only to turn again and fire up;
a bit disconcerting at times but as i said, it's never failed. When my Motobatt fails (which it no doubt will) there will be another going on.

In my view, if everything is right, and working as it should, there is no need of special leads, connectors or anything as hundreds of thousands
of these bikes get along very well without them.

As i said, it's a puzzle :nenau

To the OP, the current drain isn't good and will take the battery down. Something you said earlier about the current drain starting at a certain level
only to drop back to a lower level brought to mind the possibility of a leaking capacitor somewhere on a circuit board. Just a thought.
 
Well, the problem may be sorted. :)

When I bought the RT, the previous owner had disconnected the front aux socket, removed the connector and used the cables to power a supply to his phone for use as a satnav - he'd extended the cables up to the top of the instruments. I simply reattached the connector to that wiring and plugged it back in to the front socket. But....closer examination of the wiring, after removing a lot of cloth loom tape, showed some very iffy soldering on the extensions. I removed those, leaving just the original cables, which for the time being I've taped up out of the way, so the front aux is now dead.

Result? No noticeable drain over the last couple of days (battery shows 12.67v after standing for 48hrs), whereas previously it would have dropped considerably overnight.

Interestingly, the rear aux socket is still live all the time, it never switches off - but if it's not causing a drain, I'm not bothered.

Pete
 
Well, the problem may be sorted. :)

When I bought the RT, the previous owner had disconnected the front aux socket, removed the connector and used the cables to power a supply to his phone for use as a satnav - he'd extended the cables up to the top of the instruments. I simply reattached the connector to that wiring and plugged it back in to the front socket. But....closer examination of the wiring, after removing a lot of cloth loom tape, showed some very iffy soldering on the extensions. I removed those, leaving just the original cables, which for the time being I've taped up out of the way, so the front aux is now dead.

Result? No noticeable drain over the last couple of days (battery shows 12.67v after standing for 48hrs), whereas previously it would have dropped considerably overnight.

Interestingly, the rear aux socket is still live all the time, it never switches off - but if it's not causing a drain, I'm not bothered.

Pete

Nip down to your local dealer and pick up a canbus conector loom about £10 Wire it to the front wires and see if you get a current draw with nothing connected.

I suspect you wont. Then plug in a nav or phone and see if the canbus shuts it down after a couple of minutes
 
I fitted a cheap digiital voltmeter to my bike so I could watch for battery issues. It wont be especially accurate but it will indicate any changing trends as the bike is used. The canbus switches off after about 30 seconds.
 
It puzzles the life out of me does all this. The differences in the bikes, batteries, leads, starters etc etc.
My bike, a 2011 TC with just short of 70k up of which i've added 50k in about 4 years and in that time it's
never failed to start no matter the weather and in temperatures ranging from -10 to + 45C,
When i bought the bike i put a Motobatt on it that had seen service on my previous bike so it's now done well
over 50k and is over 4 years old; still going strong and fires the GS up even after being stood for a couple of weeks.
I have never touched the starter, never needed to, not got any special leads, connectors or anything, just the standard set up.
The only dodge the bike has when starting is (it's always done this) the engine turns then stops momentarily only to turn again and fire up;
a bit disconcerting at times but as i said, it's never failed. When my Motobatt fails (which it no doubt will) there will be another going on.

In my view, if everything is right, and working as it should, there is no need of special leads, connectors or anything as hundreds of thousands
of these bikes get along very well without them.

As i said, it's a puzzle :nenau

To the OP, the current drain isn't good and will take the battery down. Something you said earlier about the current drain starting at a certain level
only to drop back to a lower level brought to mind the possibility of a leaking capacitor somewhere on a circuit board. Just a thought.

I'm in agreement with the above, I bought my gsa in July of 2008, it had done just 6,000 miles at that point, it had an oddyssee battery fitted already.
Since I've owned the bike I've never disconnected the battery, its been left months over the winter without being on a charger and always started without a problem. It has now done 96.000 miles and still never lets me down,
Ps original clutch starter motor and alternator too.
 
When my original starter failed the clue was not enough volts drop while cranking. It could have been a high resistance lead but I'm sure that would also use power. Jump leads to the car battery with a patch lead direct to the starter positive proved the motor was faulty.

Sadly, the Motorworks service exchange motor failed in less than a year. The one way clutch was slipping and you can't buy them in UK.
 
I'm not saying that the following video is relevant in this case However it may help someone with a mysterious current drain
 
I'm not saying that the following video is relevant in this case However it may help someone with a mysterious current drain In this case a reg/rec was the culprit

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ov9T3abKgiw" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


:beerjug:
 
Had several of those Honda workshop manuals - well handy -and very indepth for troubleshooting

They used to be about £20 to buy from the dealers , then they got greedy.

I wanted one for the baby V, £100+ ex vat ....

I bought a haynes equivalent .
 
Had several of those Honda workshop manuals - well handy -and very indepth for troubleshooting

They used to be about £20 to buy from the dealers , then they got greedy.

I wanted one for the baby V, £100+ ex vat ....

I bought a haynes equivalent .
Had similar attempt from VW dealer, until I pointed out, you don't pay vat on printed materiel.

But it isn't a book, it's a part they argued, see it even has a sticker with a number.

This went on for several minutes, and having become bored, I said fine. Oh hood you're going to pay it.

No says I, I've just emailed HMRC a fraud complaint, trying to charging vat on zero rated goods.

I subsequently bought the same manuals from Georgia, including shipping at $52.



Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
Had several of those Honda workshop manuals - well handy -and very indepth for troubleshooting

They used to be about £20 to buy from the dealers , then they got greedy.

I wanted one for the baby V, £100+ ex vat ....

I bought a haynes equivalent .

A contradiction in terms if there ever was one. :)
 
To keep it simple and short,

The bike dosent go fully dead when switched off -

There will be a number of circuits that will draw current from the battery when the bike is in sleep mode

it there is batter/electrical issue than there will be fault in battery or circuit or wiring. most basic problem can be of battery.
just replace it and see whether the problem gets resolved or not.
here I have foundthis guide it will help you to select o good quality battery.
 
To keep it simple and short,

The bike dosent go fully dead when switched off -

There will be a number of circuits that will draw current from the battery when the bike is in sleep mode

it there is batter/electrical issue than there will be fault in battery or circuit or wiring. most basic problem can be of battery.
just replace it and see whether the problem gets resolved or not.
here I have foundthis guide it will help you to select o good quality battery.

Ogada, did you check the age of this thread?
 


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