690 running issues

mikeyboy

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Hi all,
I posted in another thread that I had bought a 2008 690 enduro,
Whilst servicing and prepping the bike I came across 2 wiring faults that would have caused a breakdown,(ign switch connector,loose fuse)
I’m having a bitabovver with the thing,
It stalls coming up to junctions,and can be a bit of a bugger to restart,it pops up the inlet and you have to feather the throttle to get it to catch.
Cold start is perfect.
It also seems to try and die as you progress from no throttle to small throttle,end result being you give it a handfull.hmmmm
I’ve had no time to look things over, but a mate suggested that the bikes can suffer from a blocked injector,
Any ideas and pointers chaps,?
Save me from the 500 pages of misery on adv rider.:D
I could probably do with some kind of diagnostic equip for it to see real time data.
Could you point me in the right direction :confused:
 
Yes, injector or it's filter if fitted. I rigged up a can of carb cleaner with wires to a battery to pulse in the injector whilst flushing which fixed mine. I was lucky to clear it by flushing in that direction .
Plus try a throttle reset.
Corroded starter solenoid etc.
Rocky B chased a similar fault which I believe eventually turned out to a.....faulty plug cap!
 
Consensus seems to be sending me in the same direction:thumb2
Any pointers on real time data without spending a stackacash?
I’m going to sell the bike as soon as I’m happy it’s sorted,
I only bought it for a weekend with the boys and I have this finished now
If anyone wants a cheepy green lane £3.5 k once I’m happy it’s ok
The 690 obviously
 

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Any prospective 690 owner would do well to read all those 500 pages :D

You really need to cover the usual faults I suggested before going further even if you can borrow a good injector.
Good luck!! :D
 
There was someone selling a cheap new ( but old stock ) injector ( Part No. 75041023144 ) on ebay last week but it's disappeared now...or have a specialist clean the one you have ? Seems like these bikes need an additional filter outside the tank as the original can let some particles through and block the injector.

I was having a bit of a problem with mine cold starting and it seemed like the ( new ) battery was struggling...all the frame and engine earth's were total shit, some didn't even have any paint removed before they were bolted on so the connections were poor..the bunched earth's behind the fairing and under the battery weren't much better. All good now though :D

I'm going to change the tank filter soon and add an additional external but those Golans are pretty pricey !

Loving that airhead scrambler :thumb2

Mike.
 
I had a love hate relationship with a 2009 690 Enduro R.
Broken wires etc.

Some of the symptoms you describe, woolly pick up, handful of throttle then....hold on tight.....stalling on stopping, popping, banging.

Check out the regulator rectifier. Mine went twice.
 
I have a 14 plate,owned for 2 1/2 yrs,never had a problem with it,
and i am not the most fastideous person when it comes to maintenance or cleaning it...
it,s always getting ditched green laning...on the best lanes in the country....Devon.....
 
Welcome to the world of early 690’s ownership.

Injector is a good place to start. At that age it shouldn’t be fitted with the tiny white/grey inline filters but worth checking. Could be at the injector or at the QD.

Fuel pump and in tank filter are also worth checking. Fuel pumps have been known to work when cold then fail as they heat up.

Another thing to try is hold the starter and then turn the key. This attempts a start before the ecu has had time to initialise. I was chasing down an issue this year and it would only start this way. Turned out to be a faulty map sensor on the throttle body. If I disconnected it, the bike would start and run.
 
I had a love hate relationship with a 2009 690 Enduro R.
Broken wires etc.

Some of the symptoms you describe, woolly pick up, handful of throttle then....hold on tight.....stalling on stopping, popping, banging.

Check out the regulator rectifier. Mine went twice.

Somewhere in the midst of those 500 pages from hell someone mentions upgrading to a Mosfet type regulator ( charges at 14.10 rather than 13.80 at idle ) and is more stable and reliable...useful if you have extra load and kit to power.

Shindengen FH008 :D. You need to cut and swap the connectors over.
 
Welcome to the world of early 690’s ownership.

Injector is a good place to start. At that age it shouldn’t be fitted with the tiny white/grey inline filters but worth checking. Could be at the injector or at the QD.

Fuel pump and in tank filter are also worth checking. Fuel pumps have been known to work when cold then fail as they heat up.

Another thing to try is hold the starter and then turn the key. This attempts a start before the ecu has had time to initialise. I was chasing down an issue this year and it would only start this way. Turned out to be a faulty map sensor on the throttle body. If I disconnected it, the bike would start and run.

Did you have to take it to KTM for their diagnostics or is there another way of checking sensors ?
 
Did you have to take it to KTM for their diagnostics or is there another way of checking sensors ?

My local dealer have been less than helpful on numerous occasions so I don’t use them. Tuneecu is a useful tool for faults but it didn’t show this. I ended up discovering it by trial and error. The 690 will happily run without either the MAP sensor or air pressure sensor (behind the fairing) connected. The ecu defaults to a known good value.
 
Not had chance to touch the bike but reading with interest.
All seems to point toward common issues,maybe,
It’s a cracking bike,however someone at Ktm wants a red hot poker up the arse for sending a dirt bike out with the turning circle of a truck.
And on that alone,I’ll get it running properly and gone.
 
Turning circle isn’t great on the early bikes. The steering stem has an eccentric mount meaning you can set the offset to 22 or 24mm. Steering angle is widest if set to 24mm. Also worth checking the steering stops are wound in as much as possible.
 
Turning circle isn’t great on the early bikes. The steering stem has an eccentric mount meaning you can set the offset to 22 or 24mm. Steering angle is widest if set to 24mm. Also worth checking the steering stops are wound in as much as possible.

I’ll check that:thumb
The stops are adjusted right in,as the forks just about kiss the frame on lock
 
The eccentric stem is to give the choice of quicker steering or more stability ie. Super moto or enduro.
My old Husabergs had similar. :)
 
have you resett the throttle ,,Start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes without touching anything. After 15 minutes, switch the engine off with the ignition key. and it should of adjusted itself to optimum performance ,also check what the map switch under the seat see what it is on , i normally ride on standard setting and switch to low for when it is muddy ,high setting is too aggressive for off road for me ,there is also a mode for poor fuel , all setting are the same above 4000rpm ,hope it helps
 


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