Rough running issue - Still not bloody sorted.....

Will ask my mate to measure his headers to see what he has, he has the same model & year so should give me a decent comparison.

@ Santa-2512

Thanks for the info mate, I think I will need header measurements to compare like for like otherwise this may skewith the comparison???

Will keep you all updated as I go.
 
I bought a long deep plug socket for a new BMW Mini engine via eBay that fits the newer twin cam GS engines. The wall thickness makes it a tight fit.
For my old ‘08 single cam still I have the box spanner from my old ‘04 bikes toolkit which I kept when I traded it (‘cos BMW bean counters reduced the OE toolkit on later bikes).
 
MWH said:
Probably a booster plug. May be worth removing it and seeing what happens. I think they just tell the ecu it's 20°c colder or something similar. Read in a thread on here the fuel injection system can adapt them out. Fingers cross you find the problem! And it's a cheap fix!
Click to expand...

if the adaptions could remove the fuel enrichment BMW decided the bike needs (for cold weather) it would be an interesting piece of engineering and money well spent developing and programming a cold start map that the bike then ignores
 
Had a bit of a play earlier with the GS911 and found that most of the dual parameters were the same i.e.

Lambda control factor 1- 0.99 2- 1.00
Lambda sensor heating 1 & 2 both off and on at roughly the same time.

Multiplicative trim bank 1 - 1.12 2 - 1.03

Addidtive trim bank 1 - 3.89% bank 2 - 0.98%

Cylinder head temps 1 - 142.5 2 - 142.5 so both cylinder temps the same but exhaust gases RHS roughly half that of the LHS.
 
Laser thermometer readings can vary enormously as they are based on surface reflectivity. I use them sometimes at work but have to use common sense and move the sensing point until it reads close to what is expected.

I would be tempted to clean both header pipes then try again with the laser job, or pick a different measuring spot just in case the readings are being skewed, eg next to the lambda probe pockets.
 
Pukmeister said:
Laser thermometer readings can vary enormously as they are based on surface reflectivity. I use them sometimes at work but have to use common sense and move the sensing point until it reads close to what is expected.

.
Click to expand...

good point a thermocouple on each spark plug washer would be far more sensible
 
botus said:
good point a thermocouple on each spark plug washer would be far more sensible
Click to expand...

Check all throttle cables move freely ?


Remove the spoofer lead, use GS911 to check all sensors, the spoofer lead will pull up air intake sensor fault, so remove spoofer lead and check sensors espacially air intake sensor, the start engine and read real time values, look at cylinder head temperatures, look at lamda readings, the one thing you havent done? remove throttle bodies, inspect and clean, i bet one side is running very rich and other is lean, butterfly valve sticking slighly with gunk residue from evaporated fuel (ethanol), clean with carb cleaner spray and microfibre cloth, hold throttle body up to the light and look for any gaps when butterfly valve closed, ethanol dissolves the brass butterfly valve resulting in holes that let more air in, a weak mixture causes overheating / pinking and holed pistons eventally. else a faulty injector.
see https://www.carbibles.com/symptoms-of-a-bad-throttle-body/ or a vacuum leak around throttle bodies, check by spraying with wd40 or gt85 with engine running, if a air leak then engine note and revs will change where leak is or it will stop engine running.

see https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/carbon-deposits-cleaning-up-whats-left-behind/ always run bike on shell v power !!!

see https://muddywatersmx.net/2015/08/03/i-have-ethanol-free-gas/

my advice,

my bet is the throttle bodies are the problem.

valves checked and adjusted correctly.
gs911 check all sensors and readings
remove throttle bodies and clean out and inspect
get a carbtune manometer
gs911 lock idle and do syncronisation.
if cannot synch throttle bodies you have either: air leak or faulty lamda sensors.
remove lamda sensors and inspect, make sure not sooted up ( a small blowlamp to heat exhaust near sensor makes for easy removal)
start engine check for air leaks around rubber boots (wd40 or gt85 spray)
if you cannot synch throttle bodies the fault may lie with cable routing / sticking or worn out throttle bodies.
 
Many thanks for the links & advice, compression test on Saturday followed by the throttle body removals, inspection and clean. I seemed to have addressed most other issues than the throttle bodies, electrical wiring and injector spray pattern.

I will give it a go and see what happens.
 
Have the same problem
Changed tps with Hella
Changed 2 central coil with beru
Much better but something i dont like
I will change and the secondary coils

Today i saw some values i dont like at the motoscan..
The cylinder 1 has different values on lambda sensor and Knock sensor

Maybe from secondary coils?or something else
344e141b93e6ba9b79c32d38dbd62875.jpg
5ddf7ea27c7cc83f2b22df71c5f5c354.jpg


Στάλθηκε από το JSN-L21 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
 
So I carried out a compression test on both cylinders, both were the same at 120psi.

I then took off and cleaned both throttle assemblies, not much crud in the chambers, in fact hardly any.
One chamber had the butterfly valve partly worn so I could see a little daylight around the bottom half of the valve but again not major.
I cleaned and tested the injectors and they also seemed to work fine when I turned the engine over.
I then reassembled and it was the best it has ever been..........For all of 95 miles.

It has now reverted back to as it was previously after a total of around 160 miles since I cleaned the throttle bodies, in fact after being the best it has ever been the last 20 miles have by far been the worst.

I now think fuck it and will employ the services of a good mechanic.....Does anyone know a good mechanic based either Essex or around the London area?????

Many thanks :surrender
 
commandoallan said:
So I carried out a compression test on both cylinders, both were the same at 120psi.

I then took off and cleaned both throttle assemblies, not much crud in the chambers, in fact hardly any.
One chamber had the butterfly valve partly worn so I could see a little daylight around the bottom half of the valve but again not major.
I cleaned and tested the injectors and they also seemed to work fine when I turned the engine over.
I then reassembled and it was the best it has ever been..........For all of 95 miles.

It has now reverted back to as it was previously after a total of around 160 miles since I cleaned the throttle bodies, in fact after being the best it has ever been the last 20 miles have by far been the worst.

I now think fuck it and will employ the services of a good mechanic.....Does anyone know a good mechanic based either Essex or around the London area?????

Many thanks :surrender
Click to expand...
Steptoe, but I never said it ok !

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
If you have genuine wear on a throttle butterfly this will cause imbalance between the cylinders, hopefully its just a case of the throttle stop or cable slack being wrong.

Again, Steptoe should be worth speaking to, he's a curmudgeonly old bugger but bloody good with boxer twins. :D

Keep us updated with how you get on.
 
Kenny Rodkiss said:
My scan shows equal left and right.
IMG-20190701-165417.jpg
Click to expand...
And a lot more volts in the idle?mine in the idle gives 16v the one and 12 the other cylinder.. yours is 48;;;do you think might be broken Knock sensor?

Στάλθηκε από το JSN-L21 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
 
Lots of identical data there for banks 1 & 2. Is the engine running and showing useful real time data ......?

No it isn't, RPM shows zero. ;)
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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