Bought one

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steadysteve

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Picked this up last week from Rite Bike in Bradford.
2018 model on a private plate with only 9 miles on the clock. Somebody spent a load of cash and then didn't use the bike. I think it must have been a pre-registration bike because it has 2 previous owners on the V5. Apparently they get loads of bikes with hardly any miles on them-- folks buying them but not using them. Their loss , somebody else's gain.
Anyway, I got fed up of trailering my ktm350 around and decided to get something that could do road miles more easily and not eat chunks out of the service intervals.

A few pics - the wee beastie, one waiting in the wings while the KTM goes to its new owner and one up in North Yorkshire today on a first run out. Oh and some boxes of 'stuff' haven't had chance to open them yet.
Cracking little bike-- very neutral handling, on proper tyres and feels like decent enough quality.
I did 190 miles today on a single tank and it's showing 9 miles range remaining. 76 mpg according to the computer. 6000 rev limit (60 mph) up to 375 miles but it still makes good progress.

I've bought a load of RallyRaid stuff to go on it and will post pics of progress. Engine guard, stage 2 suspension upgrade, Rental bars and Bark busters, auxiliary socket plate.
Going to see how it goes with those bits added before spending any more dosh on RR spoked wheels..
 

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I need to decide on which tyres to go for-- another inmate on here suggested Anakee Wild but they look like they might clog up quickly. I need to travel a fair way on the road to reach the trails so I need something to handle road mileage but still grip well off-road. I have to travel at least 35 miles to the nearest trails and 60-70 miles to get into the North Yorkshire trails.

I don't really want to sacrifice off-road road grip ( I can fall off easily enough without the tyres letting me down...) but need something half decent on the road. Any recommendations appreciated.
 
Engine guard fitted.

Made a start on this and fitted the engine guard today. It's an easy enough job, just nuts and bolts really-- a bit of care needed to wiggle it round the engine cases to avoid scratching but it can be done . Covered the exposed bits with gaffer tape just in case.
The Rally raid instructions are clear and well written with decent pictures, unlike some.
Disappointed that the sump plug can't be removed without unbolting the guard though. It might pivot down far enough to change the oil and filter but it would mean removing main engine mount bolts every time.

A few pics.. bits on the bench all present and correct. First job is to remove the BMW plastic guard. Four bolts , easy peasy.

Next, remove the top engine mounts each side and attach RR brackets. Offside is tucked away behind the coolant hose but the hose is soft enough to push aside without removing.

Next job is to loosely attach guard before attaching the rear of the guard to the centre stand mounting points.

RR supply two tiny stainless pieces to tidy the exposed engine casings. Nice touch-- the BMW one wraps around at this point and hides the machined surfaces.

Next job is the suspension ,front and rear..
 

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Job done.

Nice close fit and everything lined up properly. It took about an hour and a half start to finish , shuffling about on the garage floor.
Last pic of it after torquing everything down.
 

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A very nice machine, Those Rite bike guys are OK.
We bought a near new Ninja off them.
 
A very nice machine, Those Rite bike guys are OK.
We bought a near new Ninja off them.

Yeah ,easy to deal with, no messing. Free Tea and biscuits.
Not sure if its the same outfit that have Webuyanybike.com but there was two of their vans in the yard at the back.

On second thoughts it won't be necessary to drop the full guard to change the oil-- just take the four little M6's out of the top brackets and pivot it down. This tight Yorkshireman was more concerned with extra bmw labour costs for its first service.:augie
 
Suspension done.

Set to and fitted the suspension today, front and rear.
Rear first--easy enough, just one side panel and the mudsling thing to unbolt. It's nice working on a new bike with no seized fasteners. Obviously just the one bolt top and bottom to wind out.
A few pics , hopefully in the right order.

There doesn't seem to be much clearance between the suspension reservoir on the offside and the rear brake fluid reservoir-- looks like the two will come onto contact on full compression. Maybe I'm being paranoid?
I suppose there isn't much movement on the suspension unit so close to the pivot point.. The brake fluid reservoir is tucked away behind the little side panel, just out of sight.
 

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That garage door frame needs a dose of looking at......
 
Front next..

The front is a bit more involved-- mudguard off, wheel out, caliper off, abs sensor off.
Right leg out first and follow the instructions. New spring in one side only, spacer on the damper rod and some new oil, 10w synthetic. It's a bit fiddly compressing the spring and getting the top spacer nut in place because the damper rod wants to slide down all the time but not particularly hard. Once that's in place there's a new top cap to screw in. RR supply the pin spanner and the other ones needed to tighten or counterhold the spacers.
The other side is simply a spacer on the top of the damper rod and new top cap.

The new oil has to be a certain volume or a set level from the top--easy enough, just keep measuring until the ruler comes out with oil on the end.
 

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Front end finished

Last few of the finished article-- new caps and all nailed back together.
It doesn't feel a lot firmer than standard-- hopefully it will be firmer on the rough stuff.
 

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Handlebars next.

Renthal bars, risers and Barkbusters to go on next.
Fairly straightforward , although the bars needed a bit of fettling: the BMW switchgear has a little peg inside which locates into a hole in the original bars....the holes aren't pre-drilled on the Renthal ones.
Pita trying to hold the bits together and ensure the hole is in the right place to get the switchgear orientated properly.
The switch cluster, when tightened, doesn't grip the bars to any extent so the peg is vital to hold them in place laterally and to stop the cluster spinning round on the bar. The throttle side also serves a dual-purpose and holds the twist grip in place. There is no grub screw holding the throttle tube/grip in place like on the 1200 GS.

A few pics, lots of shiny bits. The RR stuff is all nicely machined and finished, no rough edges.
Second pic with switchgear hanging off. Just one fluid reservoir to keep upright on this bike..clutch is cable operated.
3rd pic , bars and risers fastened down.
 

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Barkbusters next..

Left handgrip needed removing off the BMW bars first-- tried peeling it off, twisting it off, no joy.
Stuck it in a jug of hot water, had a cup of tea while it warmed through and softened the glue and off it popped. Now I know what that silly little half-sink in the kitchen is for...

Barkbusters went on easily enough, just a bit fiddly because the brake and clutch levers are longer than moto-x bikes.
Third pic shows the clearance between the tank and switchgear-- a useful increase. The BMW ones were tight against the tank with only a few mm clearance.
Also fitted a plate to mount auxiliary sockets onto. The mount points are also compatible with satnav mounts so hopefully the bmw nav cradle I bought from dommiek, of this parish, will fit straight on.
 

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Pelicase or old roadkill touratech box on the rack?

Executive decision to be made-- nail a little pelicase on the rear rack or use an old touratech box that i had previously cut down to make it smaller.
Offered them both up and decided on the pelicase.
TT one just a bit too big I think. It fits well on my 1200 LC , while the pelicase was going spare.
Two of the holes lined up so that was a bonus.

Next job is to get the bodywork off and fun some wires through for the aux sockets.

New tyres to fit when oponeo get their arse into gear and deliver them...
 

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Anakee Wilds fitted

New tyres fitted today. These were recommended by a member on here and I also got loads of suggestions from TRF members. After watching a load of YouTube clips I narrowed it down to the Wilds or TKC 80's. The TKC may have more grip offroad but the clincher was the big difference in stopping distances on tarmac.

Couple of tweaks made as well-- gear lever too low for off-road boots to get underneath so I lifted the lever slightly by one spline on the shaft.
Also made a fatfoot for the sidestand to stop it sinking out of sight offroad.
Really happy with the bike, the only reservation being the slightly low ground clearance and the exhaust sticking out so far, making it vulnerable if it falls over:augie
 

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Looks great. I've watch a bit about fitting the Rally Raid kit to these.

Are you not going for the wheels as well?
 
Looks great. I've watch a bit about fitting the Rally Raid kit to these.

Are you not going for the wheels as well?

Might do but i want to see how i get on with the bike first. Another grand, more for tubeles wheels:eek:, so i'll wait a wee while. I added them to the basket initially and the total was around £2800 so i started taking bits off again:D

Just had the bodywork off to run some wires to the front for aux sockets.
 
I'm going to point my mate to this thread as he's interested in possibly getting one in the future. :thumby:
 
More tinkering

Done a bit more to the baby gs: fitted a standard cig lighter and twin usb to the rally raid plate mounted on the handlebar clamp. These are direct to the battery using the wires previously routed under the bodywork, fused obviously.

Removed the headlight to release the two auxiliary wires which are part of the loom,( and therefore ignition controlled), and connected one to an old BMW din socket (removed from an old RT-p project bike) which I bracketed to the left side of the cockpit to plug the sat nav cradle into.
Would like to hardwire the cradle but at least this way it can be unplugged to allow the socket to be used for other stuff.

So, that's two usb sockets, one din socket, one standard cig lighter....just need a 13amp three pin plug to complete the set.

Also fitted a small wind deflector to the screen, as mentioned in the eBay thread on here.

The bike is great fun on the road with the bar risers making the riding position very similar to the 1200GS. Anakee Wilds are very good on the road-- a bit slow to turn in but once you adjust your riding style to suit they are brilliant.
Only had a couple of off-road jollies-- second time was very wet and the Wilds were absolutely rubbish, sliding all over and filling the tread with mud. Dropped it a couple of times but it seems to be a tough little thing, however that exhaust is very exposed. I was tempted by the Rally Raid exhaust but if is almost as exposed as the OE one if the pictures are anything to go by....certainly not £400+ better.
 

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