Fitting electrical accessories to R80GS

Re PDM, yes, that's kind of what I thought once you take away the bells and whistles. Thanks for the info - I can never get my head around watts/amps. I've read mixed reviews on LED headlamp conversion kits - can you suggest a good one? My auxiliary lamps use 10 amps each. However, I think the 600 watt alternator may be the way to go, no doubt the original one is getting past it's best after 30 years and 98,000 miles, anyway. Cheers, Poon

On the LED lights, you might want to look at the BAMW website parts section where they have conversion kits for the round headlight version.
 
There's a good thread on advrider too about led lights so have a search there. Is the round headlight a H4 bulb? If so may be just plug and play if you have the evitek bulb so long as there's a little bit of space for the small fan and converter box.
 
I had old style 55w halogen spotlights, twin headlights and hotgrips on my Monolever 800 g/s and had no trouble with the stock system.
Everything was via relays to avoid leaving stuff switched on and also to avoid burning out the small switch contacts.

Mind you, I didn't ride about in daytime with my lights on, they bring for periods of darkness and reduced visibility.
I did, however, do a 300 mile night ride from Dover with the hotgrips on, twin headlights on, and occasional high beam with spots on, and had no trouble.
A good run like that,maybe wouldn’t flag up problems.
Good battery,high Ish revs,,,
It’s the bimbling around with high load and stop start which will show the weak link..
Think of the electrical system as two parts.
The alt should supply enough juice to power everything switched on.
That way,the stored battery power will always be sufficient to restart the motor.
If you use more than you put back in,eventually it will leave you stranded.
Chances are it won’t be on a big run.
More likely when running locally,after the bastard has lulled you into a false sense of security.
Fit a voltmeter,or ammeter.:thumb
 


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