RDC pressure sensor battery replacement - suggestions

NicD

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https://ibb.co/r0Zj2mr

Battery with tabs spot welded on. Also a Varta as I didn't want a cheap one as per most ebay listings for 2032s with tabs

For removal of battery, do not follow N van den Berg's doc. Break spot welds on existing positive first, remove resin from behind tab, then bend tab up. Remove resin from around battery after doing this - it ensures battery held firmly in place while spot welds broken. Then lever battery up by positive tab as negative tab is at 180 degrees to positive. Lift battery as little as possible to put as little pressure as possible on negative tab. Break spot welds. There are two spot welds top and bottom.

For soldering new batt, I found easiest with tabs on new battery pointing away from sensor tab, and then folded back on itself.
 
NicD said:
https://ibb.co/r0Zj2mr

Battery with tabs spot welded on. Also a Varta as I didn't want a cheap one as per most ebay listings for 2032s with tabs

For removal of battery, do not follow N van den Berg's doc. Break spot welds on existing positive first, remove resin from behind tab, then bend tab up. Remove resin from around battery after doing this - it ensures battery held firmly in place while spot welds broken. Then lever battery up by positive tab as negative tab is at 180 degrees to positive. Lift battery as little as possible to put as little pressure as possible on negative tab. Break spot welds. There are two spot welds top and bottom.

For soldering new batt, I found easiest with tabs on new battery pointing away from sensor tab, and then folded back on itself.
Click to expand...
I've replace the battery without soldering excess heat can only damage the battery if you shape the terminals before sliding new battery it will be fine and I seal all of that with black gasket maker silicone.
takes about 30min including tyre installation
I was finding very difficult to solder to the battery without overheating It was using flux silver solder and professional solder station and it still didn't hold properly and next pne I've done was without the soldering gently cut around the battery with the stanley knife and new battery fits tight in the same spot ...
But that's how I do it ...

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
Denz0 said:
I've replace the battery without soldering excess heat can only damage the battery if you shape the terminals before sliding new battery it will be fine and I seal all of that with black gasket maker silicone.
takes about 30min including tyre installation
I was finding very difficult to solder to the battery without overheating It was using flux silver solder and professional solder station and it still didn't hold properly and next pne I've done was without the soldering gently cut around the battery with the stanley knife and new battery fits tight in the same spot ...
But that's how I do it ...
Click to expand...

Solution is battery with spot-welded tabs as per my photo. Easy to solder with minimal heat transfer to battery or circuit board. For positive RDC unit tab I sandwiched it between the bent over ends of the battery tab with solder both sides. Held iron to top piece for a few seconds to heat both layers of solder. Firm conneciton made. If you can sodler it safely there is no need to rely on contact being maintained by the elasticity of the unit's tab and/or the silicone/glue.

In any case, each to his own. I am just recording my thoughts, particularly as I think the insturcitons in the pdf doc I downloaded to read are not ideal.
 
I didn’t weld the negative. Just bent it so it would always provide pressure.
I did weld the positive.
When I removed the battery I did it in a way that the new would be snug and held in place by the resin.

Then used a silicon gun to seal it.
I’ve done this in my current 6 sensors.
4 for the GS (two sets of wheels) and I retrofitted my K12R.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My RDC sensors read differently from two pressure gauges I have that I think are accurate. Same for others?
 
still got my "cast" winter wheels on the bike, both sensors read 2psi high against a known accurate gauge, which I consider to be good enough.
 
Thanks. Not great that it's normal, but good to know not sign of a problem. Have just switched to psi from bar so never paid too much attention as i always set in psi
 
It Just feels that way.
Cast wheels for when the salt is on the roads.
Spoked wheels corrode with the dissimilar metals Ally rim and stainless spokes + salt :yikes
 
NicD said:
https://ibb.co/r0Zj2mr

Battery with tabs spot welded on. Also a Varta as I didn't want a cheap one as per most ebay listings for 2032s with tabs

For removal of battery, do not follow N van den Berg's doc. Break spot welds on existing positive first, remove resin from behind tab, then bend tab up. Remove resin from around battery after doing this - it ensures battery held firmly in place while spot welds broken. Then lever battery up by positive tab as negative tab is at 180 degrees to positive. Lift battery as little as possible to put as little pressure as possible on negative tab. Break spot welds. There are two spot welds top and bottom.

For soldering new batt, I found easiest with tabs on new battery pointing away from sensor tab, and then folded back on itself.
Click to expand...

Hi, where did you buy the batteries from? I can only find the standard 2032.
 
 
Thanks guys, I'll check them out.

The 100 quid ones are normally when they are out of stock they just put price to silly level to stop anyone pressing buy.
 
For what it's worth, and this may be because my soldering skills are not so good, I found the long tabs helpful in attaching the new battery. I have no doubt others could do a better job than me with short tabs, but just mentioning in case the info is of use
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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