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You are not alone and I am from the UK..........living overseas for 33 years
They will find you one day.... we've got interpol now you know....
Got Shaft Rot.... again WTF
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They will find you one day.... we've got interpol now you know....
Deleted account 191119001
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Ha ha if they found me they would give me back straight away, I have a good hiding place, my street is full of Police and and army..........
I wonder if they ever replace the actual saft or did they just replace the shaft outer housing and kept original shaft in there?
Got the dreaded Shaft Rot again..... WTF
Following this thread.. https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showt...-Inside-Out-Pics?highlight=rusting+inside+out
Got a BMW Warranty Claim and had a new Shaft and New Final Drive under Warranty.... only 6 months ago !!
Doing a deep clean today and the photo's speak for themselves.
I know my final drive was replaced because my old one had scratches on the paintwork, the new one was clean as a whistle (on the outside).
Is it just me ??
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I opened up the final drive and had a look.
Glad I did now as well.....
Every year around Springtime, I clean and service all my bikes.
The GSA is getting a stripdown this year as it's having new suspension next week. I took the shaft out, as part of all the work... just to see what was going on in there.
If you're not going to keep the bike longer than two years I wouldn't bother....
Fair enough, I appreciate the reply. I guess in the final drive change the Motorrad centres dont even bother looking?
That’s the beauty of a chain. If it looks a bit dirty, then clean and grease it. Takes all of 15 mins.
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No they're not interested in the shaft drive or rubber gator condition unless you tell them to check and take photo's for you, plus demand they grease the rubber gator... and they'll charge you extra for that. Probably an hours labour plus parts... final drive fluid, caliper bolts, washer and seal, grease.
The correct grease is very expensive, so they won't use it....
Also, when you get your service Valve Clearance check done, if the valves are in specification, it's highly probable they won't bother to do a Cam Alignment Adjustment as it takes extra time. But the Cam Alignment Adjustment needs to be done as it's pretty much always out at 12,000 miles. The engines runs smoother and revs better afterwards so it's worth the extra time taken.
Agreed. Except at least a shaft drive is socially acceptable and quietly keeps its shit to itself. Unlike a chain where it'll fling it's shit over anything in range and is a mess to clean up after every party.
Ha ha .... unless it drops its oil all over the drive/carpark! Otherwise could have agreed at one time, but the modern spray grease doesn't fling off and stays as clean as a whistle
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Ha ha .... unless it drops its oil all over the drive/carpark! Otherwise could have agreed at one time, but the modern spray grease doesn't fling off and stays as clean as a whistle
Haha...
Just a friendly warning not to kill the neighbours cat, because final drive fluid smells like cat piss.... so a puddle by your back wheel needs investigating, not moggy hunting...
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To be fair though, in some ways I'm creating my own problems with the shaft drive.
If you were a 'normal' GS user (wash bike, ride in wet).... the shaft would eventually go rusty and weld itself to the final drive. So after a period of years they'll be inseperable without removal and a lot of effort.
But, other than uglyness (which you can't see) there won't be a problem for some time.
However.... the rust will be eating into the splines and shaft knuckles.... weakening it all.
Eventually the splines may sheer, leaving you with a big bill and inconvenience.
A new final drive unit and shaft drive from BMW won't be cheap.
Although eBay is your friend at that point. There plug and play fitment so it's arguably not needed.
If you have a long term ownership game plan, I'd look after it.
If you were a 'normal' GS user (wash bike, ride in wet).... the shaft would eventually go rusty and weld itself to the final drive. So after a period of years they'll be inseperable without removal and a lot of effort.
But, other than uglyness (which you can't see) there won't be a problem for some time.
However.... the rust will be eating into the splines and shaft knuckles.... weakening it all.
Eventually the splines may sheer, leaving you with a big bill and inconvenience.
A new final drive unit and shaft drive from BMW won't be cheap.
Although eBay is your friend at that point. There plug and play fitment so it's arguably not needed.
If you have a long term ownership game plan, I'd look after it.
I paid £20.00 for a 50g tube, yes expensive but less than a new shaft or worse.
When mine snapped it also took out the swing arm when it locked up - not much fun on the M25. Thankfully the Polish artic driver was fully awake as I came to a halt with a controlled* sideways slide in front of his wagon.
*Fortunately only doing around 30mph or so when it locked up - still slid a fair distance on the wet road,
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WARNING
If you have an older bike (3 plus years or more) and are curious to check your final drive condition yourself, you must be prepared to remove the whole final drive unit and shaft if it's rusted together.
IF it's rusted and the shaft can't be wiggled away from the final drive splines easily..... you run the risk, as you tilt the final drive backwards, of pulling the shaft off the gearbox splines at the top end of the shaft.
This will then be extremely difficult to reseat.
If this happens it's probably best you unbolt the final drive and pull it out with the shaft completely all as one unit. Then try to seperate the shaft from the final drive away from the bike. BUT IT'LL BE HEAVY.
Just so you're prepared to do this, before you start tinkering.
If you have an older bike (3 plus years or more) and are curious to check your final drive condition yourself, you must be prepared to remove the whole final drive unit and shaft if it's rusted together.
IF it's rusted and the shaft can't be wiggled away from the final drive splines easily..... you run the risk, as you tilt the final drive backwards, of pulling the shaft off the gearbox splines at the top end of the shaft.
This will then be extremely difficult to reseat.
If this happens it's probably best you unbolt the final drive and pull it out with the shaft completely all as one unit. Then try to seperate the shaft from the final drive away from the bike. BUT IT'LL BE HEAVY.
Just so you're prepared to do this, before you start tinkering.
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Skills Trophy Awarded:
More like panic.
Did make me think why I ride a bike when I have a nice warm (more economical) car at home...
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Deleted account 191119001
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You’ve got me bobbing me kegs now. What grease do I need for the splines?
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