Clutch slipping under acceleration...

Quite a inseresting topic, to which there's never given a definitive answer.

You hear, "you cant ride a bike with a dry clutch like a bike with a wet clutch", "Left against the lever (zero free play) causes problems" quite often.

How much free play should it have at the lever, you dont really get any free play at the lever as such, its always resting on the

hydraulic acttuator. How much pressure on this, causes the clutch to slip? how do you know when theres no pressure on it??

Which begs the question, how exactly are you supposed to ride a bike with a dry clutch?

Most cars have dry clutches, and go on to 80,90, 100k on the original clutch, and there slipped daily.

Unless your dumping the clutch and launching yourself off the start line, drive, lights etc like a drag racer, there is no other way, you have to slip t

the clutch.

Most bikes have wet clutches, and there slipped with no problems. Again, unless your dumping it drag style, you have to slip the clutch.

Now i know the Ducattl is the exeption with a dry multiplate clutch, but again its slipped to obtain a smooth drive.


So how exactly do you ride a bike with a dry clutch?
 
Its been hot looking at the blueing ,so best to replace and check the other stuff mentioned on re build,
 
Santa-2512 said:
How much free play should it have at the lever, you dont really get any free play at the lever as such.


So how exactly do you ride a bike with a dry clutch?
Click to expand...

You’re confusing a cable operated clutch, which must have free play, with an hydraulic clutch, which isn’t adjustable. And look at the clutch friction plate of a car compared to the bmw motorcycle friction plate. Damper springs, thickness !! You can ride a bmw clutch as much as like through traffic etc, but you won’t get a long life out of it, why ? Because it’s the same as riding on your brakes, the material wears out. You can’t argue with the laws of physics. I use my bmw clutch like a switch, only touch it to change gear. Impossible to do 100% of the time as I live in London, but i do my best.
 
NicD said:
The problem with internet interactions is that it's hard to know when something is a bit of a larf or when it really is rude. But it's more fun to have a few amusing posts

Other question I would have is the history of the bike - is this something that you have owned for a while, or is it quite new? How was it ridden? Lots of town miles and clutch slipping? Left in a garage for a few years? Might make a difference to know.
Click to expand...

On here it's fair to assume a tongue in cheek larf is going on. Though there are some miserable gits who fail to understand irony or even something said that was a bit daft.

The OP's clutch has slipped far too much and it really is fekked. It's likely the master cylinder fluid level was too high and/or as Steppers says too much heavy traffic crawling. But probably you will never know.

Having done a couple of rides into London on the Beemer I would not do it again from choice. Far too much like hard work and the engine got horribly hot, not to mention the clutch.
 
Nobody has yet suggested handguards baulking full release of clutch lever.

It's worth checking if only to eliminate a potential cause.
 
TonkaTruckSte said:
R1200GS 2006. 40,000 miles

Wonder if anyone can help, my clutch has started slipping under above average acceleration.
I've removed the clutch to inspect, however there is plenty of life left in the clutch. :confused:

57502950-827276244311303-2397572141877821440-n.jpg


Clutch was dry, no signs of oil... I'm presuming pressure plate failure? or could this be an actuation slave cylinder issue?

Edit: The clutch lever was not hitting the hand guard.
Click to expand...

Greg Masters said:
Nobody has yet suggested handguards baulking full release of clutch lever.

It's worth checking if only to eliminate a potential cause.
Click to expand...

Last line of the opening post, do you frequent specsavers yet?
 
Lever and the fluid where all checked prior to removing the clutch. I did my homework prior to removing the clutch :friday

New clutch, pressure plate, cover plate etc all ordered from Motorworks.
 
Mine started slipping occasionally under hard acceleration in 5th/6th around 10k miles (2008 GSA). It meant that all overtakes needed a little extra planning and space to complete just in case. Fluid level was correct. By 18k I bought a new clutch for £400 and split the bike with nothing obvious found. The new clutch also began slipping soon after.

I then replaced the OE clutch fluid for magura royal blood and the unwanted slipping stopped and has never returned.
 
If you replace the clutch and want to keep the bike. Go all out and get the Touratech ceramic clutch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mondrage said:
If you replace the clutch and want to keep the bike. Go all out and get the Touratech ceramic clutch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yeah - but. No - but...

The snag is a more grippy friction plate causes more wear on the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces. You might get away with two pressure plates per friction plate and flywheels cost HOW MUCH!!!
 
SORTED. Clutch replaced and working faultlessly! Thank you to the people who genuinely tried to help.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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