I'm just wondering if there are any other preventative maintenance jobs that will be much easier now that the rear shock is removed? Thanks.
2008 GS rear shock removed... any other jobs I should do whilst it's out?
- Thread starter landmarkjohn
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NicD
Registered user
I had a final drive rebuild last year and took the opportunity to remove swingarm. Both swingarm bearings were dead as they are sealed one side only. Driveshaft cush drive was split and gearbox end UJ had a tight spot. Need to grease driveshaft splines too. And can check the FD for play in pinion.
It's a twin cam I've got and when the rear shock is off I've got good access to the clutch slave cylinder.
If yours is the same it would be a good time to change the clutch fluid, you can unbolt the slave cylinder and push the piston right back to expel all the old fluid.
Make sure you refill it with the proper fluid, it's not normal brake/clutch fluid.
If yours is the same it would be a good time to change the clutch fluid, you can unbolt the slave cylinder and push the piston right back to expel all the old fluid.
Make sure you refill it with the proper fluid, it's not normal brake/clutch fluid.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Fit new swing arm bearings and properly grease the paralever bearings under the final drive casing.
If the slave cylinder is not leaking and the master is not sucking air through the seals, there is no need to change the hydraulic oil. It won't deteriorate like brake fluid. LHM fluid as used in Citroen hydraulics is the same stuff.
You don't need a spacial socket to set the swing arm bearings. Just set the correct torque and mark the end with white paint. Then you'll then know if it moves when you tighten the lock ring. You can remove the RHS with an M6 cap screw and a forked end >90 degree crowbar. Protect the frame paint and carefully lever the bolt straight out. The book says use a side hammer but there's really no need as long as you pull it straight out.
If the slave cylinder is not leaking and the master is not sucking air through the seals, there is no need to change the hydraulic oil. It won't deteriorate like brake fluid. LHM fluid as used in Citroen hydraulics is the same stuff.
You don't need a spacial socket to set the swing arm bearings. Just set the correct torque and mark the end with white paint. Then you'll then know if it moves when you tighten the lock ring. You can remove the RHS with an M6 cap screw and a forked end >90 degree crowbar. Protect the frame paint and carefully lever the bolt straight out. The book says use a side hammer but there's really no need as long as you pull it straight out.
Thanks all, good info. Using the Haynes spanner scale 1-5 of difficulty how hard is it to do the swing arm bearings? Anyone got the bearing number or a link? When I look using BMW part number they are coming up about £26 each before shipping. Thanks.
NicD
Registered user
The bearings aren't inteference fit so removal and fitting is not hard. There are threads on this - you can drift out from the rear or use a bearing puller. I paid £22 from local dealer per bearing as they had stock and I wanted to refit and I didn't note the bearing number. You might find elsewhere on here? Removing the driveshaft isn't hard and, actually, while I mention that, you should check the rubber gaiter at gearbox as this commonly splits in the bellows valleys. The BMW part is much better quality than the Motorworks one. Good opty to replace that if you need to. As bearing removal goes, the swingarm ones are pretty simple, but you need to judge confidence with that kind of thing.
Bendy toy
Registered user
The BMW swing arm taper rollers are specials with seals You can get them from BMW or (erm) BMW.
Bearing size is listed on http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do 17 x 40 x 13.25mm. The BMW bearings are sealed taper rollers. You cannot get a standard sealed taper in that size. However you can get a sealed 17 x 40 x 12 in angular contact ball bearing. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7203-B-2...701660&hash=item5653fc5435:g:JxIAAOSwoddaWd1x You would need a 0.6mm shim on the right hand side to centre the swing arm. The left side is adjusted to tension the bearing.
For rocking action bearings, I pop off the seals and pack full with grease. This is a bad idea for wheel bearings (50% fill req'd) but swing arms etc seem to last better that way.
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