New 1250 GSA with non ESA 'standard' suspension........

on my bike... i take the pre-load right off (I'm 90KG) and that just works out fine for 30% sag....
where have you set the damping? I have mine about 9-10 clicks out when solo... (this is the knob on the bottom of the shock you get to it from under the bike)

is there any adjustent on your front?

Not sure about front adjustment. Don't think there is any? Re the pre-load, it was around 4 clicks (of about 10?) on collection. I have since tried it at 0 and also 1-3 clicks. No different. I have not tried the higher settings as I presume that will make it stiffer. Haven't been underneath yet. If there's adjustment there, there is hope! :)
 
If you have the funds - get a pair of good aftermarket shocks (Ohlins/Wilbers/Maxton etc) and bung the stock crap in a box - to bring out when you sell the bike.

Or - hang out for someone selling used shocks (of the above) - factor in an overhaul/refresh - and you shouldn’t lose money when you sell.

Will definitely look at those options if I find I need to swop out the standard kit. Given it's brand new, I will try getting it set up (better) before changing it, but I appreciate there are other options beyond BMW kit and other ESAs etc. From memory, I think ESA is about a £850 factory option, but probably more as a retro fit - and perhaps double that for fitted / set up Ohlins, etc? Hopefully, I can set this system up a bit better for starters.....
 
clicks?.. Does the side knob click??..and out of 10??... it should do 30 plus full turns??.. do you have a pic?.....anyway, turn it all the way anti-clockwise and the pre-load is off... then go under the bike on the ctr stand from the LHS... there on the bottom of the shock you will find the damping control... turn it as far as it will go clockwise, and then back it out about 9-10 clicks... should improve your ride ;)
 
clicks?.. Does the side knob click??..and out of 10??... it should do 30 plus full turns??.. do you have a pic?.....anyway, turn it all the way anti-clockwise and the pre-load is off... then go under the bike on the ctr stand from the LHS... there on the bottom of the shock you will find the damping control... turn it as far as it will go clockwise, and then back it out about 9-10 clicks... should improve your ride ;)

Thanks dude. I will do this and report back!
 
Happy ending! Thanks Beaver and others who commented on this. I have turned down the damping (via the little wheel at the bottom of the rear shock) and it is transformed! :) No doubt, not as seamless as the auto adjusting ESA which goes from 'magic carpet' to 'race track' automatically as needed (or at least via the handlebar switch) but I have tested it on bumpy back roads and fast flat roads and it is 'nice' on both. There is a lot of adjust-ability on both the large pre load wheel at the top of the rear shock and almost equally with the small damping wheel at the bottom of the shock. The latter has a noticeable 'click' for each position (approx 12). It was on 6 or 7 when I adjusted it - and is not down to 3. You can reach the top pre-load wheel from a riding position (i.e. on the 'fly') but the bottom damping wheel is an off the bike / underneath adjustment. Piece of cake. Thanks guys! :)
 
how much do you weigh?.. as i say, I'm 90KG and with the pre-load (top knob) full off, thats the correct sag for me.. only put it up when my Son gets on the back with the boxes.

the damping I have on 9-10 clicks out (you must be counting from the other way so 10 - 11 clicks out just a bit softer than I have it... )

What you will find is it will be a better ride than the ESA as commented on many times by those who have tried both ;)

Make sure you only adjust the bottom one from the LHS if its hot!. I still have the scar on my hand where I was lazy and tried to do it from the RHS on the side stand... that exhaust get very hot :blast
 
how much do you weigh?.. as i say, I'm 90KG and with the pre-load (top knob) full off, thats the correct sag for me.. only put it up when my Son gets on the back with the boxes.

the damping I have on 9-10 clicks out (you must be counting from the other way so 10 - 11 clicks out just a bit softer than I have it... )

What you will find is it will be a better ride than the ESA as commented on many times by those who have tried both ;)

Make sure you only adjust the bottom one from the LHS if its hot!. I still have the scar on my hand where I was lazy and tried to do it from the RHS on the side stand... that exhaust get very hot :blast

Approx 75 kilos. Yes, was counting 'clicks' from zero. Think I have it about right, but will fine tune it once it is run in and I start ringing it's neck a bit more around the alps with luggage etc. :) I am so relieved!!! Nearly had some buyer's remorse there on not ticking the ESA box on the order. Happy again now! (Noted on the proximity of the small wheel underneath the shock to the exhaust etc!)
 
Approx 75 kilos. Yes, was counting 'clicks' from zero. Think I have it about right, but will fine tune it once it is run in and I start ringing it's neck a bit more around the alps with luggage etc. :) I am so relieved!!! Nearly had some buyer's remorse there on not ticking the ESA box on the order. Happy again now! (Noted on the proximity of the small wheel underneath the shock to the exhaust etc!)

:clap:clap:clap:clap next oil and tyres.............:D
 
At 75 KG you may need a softer spring... see how it goes anyway... quite easy to change the rear if required...

Have you measured your sag?
 
At 75 KG you may need a softer spring... see how it goes anyway... quite easy to change the rear if required...

Have you measured your sag?

Think at 75kg he should be fine beaver, most BMW oem shocks come out at 80kg stock, aint much 5 kgs................:beerjug:
 
Dear friend, in the owner's manual there are clear instructions how to adjust the preload and rebound damping. I have a 1200 gsa model year 2018 with manual suspension. It works well under most circumstances and is very robust and durable (I have had 4 gs's altogether 200 000 kms and bmw manual suspension has never failed even on terrible russian countryside roads). However I would appreciate possibility to increase the front end compression damping a little bit.

Lähetetty minun SM-G950F laitteesta Tapatalkilla
 
The only thing to add is that the front suspension is non-adjustable. Nuts really on a £15K bike - but then they want you to buy a TE with ESA!
 
Dear friend, in the owner's manual there are clear instructions how to adjust the preload and rebound damping. I have a 1200 gsa model year 2018 with manual suspension. It works well under most circumstances and is very robust and durable (I have had 4 gs's altogether 200 000 kms and bmw manual suspension has never failed even on terrible russian countryside roads). However I would appreciate possibility to increase the front end compression damping a little bit.

Lähetetty minun SM-G950F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

Many thanks dude. I really should read the instruction manual. :) I'm actually very pleased with how it is feeling now I have adjusted the two little spinning wheels. Not as 'magic carpet' as the ESA but still 'nice'. I also fitted 'grip puppies' to the handlebar grips today, which also adds comfort. :)
 
Think at 75kg he should be fine beaver, most BMW oem shocks come out at 80kg stock, aint much 5 kgs................:beerjug:

I may be closer to 80kg.....haven't weighed myself for a while! How do I actually measure the 'sag'?
 
I may be closer to 80kg.....haven't weighed myself for a while! How do I actually measure the 'sag'?

If they are 80kg.. and I'm 90KG, with no pre-load I only just get the sag figure.

Checking sag is easy.. look at the full spec of your suspension.. my rear for example has a range of 200mm.
Taking 30% as a sag figure, this means my sag is 60mm
so with the bike on the ctr stand, take a measurement from the frame to a point on the wheel centre (say top of the axle tube)
Now with you on the bike with all your gear on, the amount it compresses the spring should reduce that measurement by 60mm

If its not seeing 60mm your spring is too hard.
If its going over 60mm turn up your pre-load until you get 60mm

2 man job as you need to balance on the bike with your feet off.. but quite easy to do
 
If you have no success setting the suspension up the way you want it you could take it to a suspension specialist to see what they think is possible using the original parts.

As has been said a suspension upgrade to something like Wilbers shocks would most likely make a huge difference and someone like Revs Racing in Halesowen would do the whole lot for you on a ride in ride out basis and depending on if you intend to keep the bike long term you could sell your originals to offset the cost, or keep them and swap them back when you sell it.

Give them a call-they are very helpful and would be able to discuss the options available- I had a lengthy chat with them when I was thinking of getting an Explorer and they certainly seemed to know there stuff. They're not cheap, but the best never is...…..

http://www.revsracing.co.uk/contactus.htm
 
If they are 80kg.. and I'm 90KG, with no pre-load I only just get the sag figure.

Checking sag is easy.. look at the full spec of your suspension.. my rear for example has a range of 200mm.
Taking 30% as a sag figure, this means my sag is 60mm
so with the bike on the ctr stand, take a measurement from the frame to a point on the wheel centre (say top of the axle tube)
Now with you on the bike with all your gear on, the amount it compresses the spring should reduce that measurement by 60mm

If its not seeing 60mm your spring is too hard.
If its going over 60mm turn up your pre-load until you get 60mm

2 man job as you need to balance on the bike with your feet off.. but quite easy to do


Thanks Beaver. So the sag adjustment is all done via the large upper pre-load wheel, not the lower damping wheel?
 


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