Rear brake pads query.

milleplod

milleplod

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The rear pads on my servo-braked 1200 seem to be producing lots of dust. RealOEM shows the originals as being sintered - is that why there's so much dust? :confused: Can anyone recommend an alternative? Not a major issue obviously, just wondered if 'that's how they are'!

Pete
 
Yep, I do do that. I remember DrFarkoff recommending organic pads for whenever I get around to having the servo removed - would I be right in thinking organics would wear quickly with the servo brakes beink linked? One-word answers most welcome, as ever....:D
 
milleplod said:
Yep, I do do that. I remember DrFarkoff recommending organic pads for whenever I get around to having the servo removed - would I be right in thinking organics would wear quickly with the servo brakes beink linked? One-word answers most welcome, as ever....:D
Click to expand...
One word when nine will do

Organics will give slightly better initial feel but as they get hotter start to fade slightly, compared to sintered. Will you notice the difference, probably not.

You should never use hh pads on the rear if you don't have hh on the front, that really causes an imbalance.

If you do change to organic, clean the disc, both sides ! with brake cleaner and a green scotchbrite pad, kitchen ones are fine.

Or if you're feeling flush, depending upon miles done (and its thickness) you could replace the disc at the same time.

Giving the calipers a good clean, ensuring everything slides as it should, and changing the brake fluid is always worthwhile and makes a marked improvement for a couple of hours work.



Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
I've got a set of Vesrah organics from when I had my ST. I'll take your advice on cleaning first and give them a try. I've always found the servo brakes quite sharp at low speeds, which I don't like, be interesting to see if they're any different.
 
I've got ebc HH sintered pads front and rear, they miraculously are replenishing themselves in use, I think they will last forever,


Well, according to BMW they are, I was told 22 months ago that my rear pads were nearly worn out and my disc as close to minimum thickness, the bike was on!y in for a fuel strip to be fitted,
Cue 3 weeks ago when another fuel strip was fitted 20,000 miles later, I was told my discs were fine and brake pads are 40-60% worn, so half worn then, same pads and same discs. Go figure!
 
gazza12adv said:
I've got ebc HH sintered pads front and rear, they miraculously are replenishing themselves in use, I think they will last forever,


Well, according to BMW they are, I was told 22 months ago that my rear pads were nearly worn out and my disc as close to minimum thickness, the bike was on!y in for a fuel strip to be fitted,
Cue 3 weeks ago when another fuel strip was fitted 20,000 miles later, I was told my discs were fine and brake pads are 40-60% worn, so half worn then, same pads and same discs. Go figure!
Click to expand...
Praise be to the ebc God's.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
To stop the caliper pins from seizing and never having any future caliper problems it's best to "slide" the caliper along it's full movemnt once a month during winter or wet periods.

Stand facing the r/h side of the bike at the rear. Place the sole of your boot on the caliper, hold the rearsubframe/pannier rails and push your foot against the caliper.
This forces the pistons to retract and caliper body to slide the length of it's pins that attach the two halves together.

Then remember to pump the rear brake pedal to get the pads back in contact with the disc.

Job done, no need to worry about the rear brake seizing for a few weeks :D
 
Steptoe said:
To stop the caliper pins from seizing and never having any future caliper problems it's best to "slide" the caliper along it's full movemnt once a month during winter or wet periods.

Stand facing the r/h side of the bike at the rear. Place the sole of your boot on the caliper, hold the rearsubframe/pannier rails and push your foot against the caliper.
This forces the pistons to retract and caliper body to slide the length of it's pins that attach the two halves together.

Then remember to pump the rear brake pedal to get the pads back in contact with the disc.

Job done, no need to worry about the rear brake seizing for a few weeks :D
Click to expand...

Handy to know that - thanks very much. :thumb2
 
DO NOT USE BMW STANDARD ORGANIC PADS ON THE ABS REAR BRAKE.

The pads did give more feel and would be fine on none ABS bikes. But on an ABS bike, the pads were down to metal in under 4000 miles. I hardly touch the rear brake as the ABS does more than enough for my taste. It was entirely the way the bike works. They were bought from a BMW main dealer who did not warn me they would wear rapidly on and ABS bike.

Ferrodo Platinum (both ends) solved the problem of excessive pad wear but I still think the back end is over-used by the ABS system.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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