I can’t bleed rear brake

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Northern Monkey

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2006 R1200rt abs non servo

I replaced the rear master cylinder as the pedal kept going soft.

Having replaced the master I tried bleeding the usual way - large syringe and ‘sucking’ fluid through

But no amount of sucking is making a jot of difference.

I’ve ordered a pressurised bleed kit device but it’s not arrived yet.

Is there something about the linked brakes/abs that precludes it from the normal bleed method ?

Cheers


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Procedure is for the servo brakes isn’t it?

Possible reason for not being able to bleed is that the piston is too far into the cylinder and the inlet port is sealed off. Try backing the adjuster off to withdraw the piston slightly and see if that helps.

Correct adjustment of the operating linkage is safety critical but I’m not aware of any procedure for setting it up.

I would urge you to get it checked by a reputable indy or a main dealer.
 
Procedure is for the servo brakes isn’t it?

Possible reason for not being able to bleed is that the piston is too far into the cylinder and the inlet port is sealed off. Try backing the adjuster off to withdraw the piston slightly and see if that helps.

Correct adjustment of the operating linkage is safety critical but I’m not aware of any procedure for setting it up.

I would urge you to get it checked by a reputable indy or a main dealer.

Procedure would give an idea if he has missed something...........;)
 
Yours is something Evolution 5 or or 6 of Integral braking ABS II was a good but heavy system used on 1100 GS RS RT etc and Early 1150GS and K bikes of a round that era

You need a GS911 and a laptop to this correctly now I recall

You can do the master cylinder to unit by slackening the brake nut from the master cylinder to the ABS unit and wiggling the pipe to allow air out whilst you pump the pedal

And you can then go on to do the after ABS unit in a traditional, get pressure, Hold pressure and Release nipple quickly while maintaining pressure on pedal and hopefully fluid and bubbles should blow out that little bit of clear pipe you have dangling into a jar
Close the nipple and release the lever and do it again

But to be 100 percent you will likely need to use the bleed program on a GS 911 or similar??

PS Spray the area that might be affected from Brake fluid splashes with GT85 or Back to black or dare I say the much hated WD40< but keep this schit off rubber!!

And if you have any on the floor a bucket of hot soapy water will remove it, Its harmful for animals and Hooomans too
 
Yours is something Evolution 5 or or 6 of Integral braking ABS II was a good but heavy system used on 1100 GS RS RT etc and Early 1150GS and K bikes of a round that

Sorry I must have been mistaken - it’s the abs version post servo , whatever that is


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Sorry I must have been mistaken - it’s the abs version post servo , whatever that is

Not a problem I should have read the post more slowly

Its something like Evo V (five) or Evo VI (Six) of the Integral braking systems

Evo I being the first Servo versions ones fitted to the likes of the K1200LT and the others of that time
 
You’d be better off deleting this post and all the misinformation that’s been given and starting a new thread with the words NON ABS very prominent.
 
I just use a one way valve in the bleed pipe that finishes in a jam jar of brake fluid. Keep pumping and filling at the top until no bubbles at the bottom, then tighten the bleed nipple, top up the reservoir and that's it.
 
I replaced the rear master cylinder on an ABS bike. The old master had seized causing brake to lock on. Bleeding the fluid with new master cylinder was the same as any other brake. Keep the pot topped up and pump it through.
 
Thanks - must have had a big air lock in there somewhere- had to use syringe to pump fluid from rigid pipe (disconnected ) from master to the caliper ( to put fluid through all pipes and through the abs unit) then connected up and bled through normally after that.

Thanks for your help and sorry for all the confusion early on.





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