Akrapovic baffle removal Euro 3

Nick G

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Hi guys, I have a 2017 GSA with a Euro 3 Akra (removable baffles). I recently fitted Akra headers and had the bike hill topped last weekend (met some good guys up there from on here).
My baffles are still in and the bike sounds pretty good as it is. Three questions:
1. Anyone got the same set up as me with baffles out and is it much louder (don't want to be totally antisocial)
2. Any performance improvement with baffles out or is it just a sound thing?
3. I loosened one of the allen bolts holding a baffle but not knowing how long the bolt was I chickened out as I didn't want to drop it into the can in case was a short fella. Is the bolt a sensible length? (I assume I can get the baffles out with the can still fitted to the bike).
ta
Nick
 
IME, just a lot noisier without cat nor baffle. Losing one seemed ok to me, but losing both was just too noisy.
I ended up with full system and baffles in place. This also felt smoother. Baffles are easy to take out (and refit) on Euro 3 models.
Stuff a bit of paper towel down if you are worried about dropping the screws!


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Nick G said:
Hi guys, I have a 2017 GSA with a Euro 3 Akra (removable baffles). I recently fitted Akra headers and had the bike hill topped last weekend (met some good guys up there from on here).
My baffles are still in and the bike sounds pretty good as it is. Three questions:
1. Anyone got the same set up as me with baffles out and is it much louder (don't want to be totally antisocial)
2. Any performance improvement with baffles out or is it just a sound thing?
3. I loosened one of the allen bolts holding a baffle but not knowing how long the bolt was I chickened out as I didn't want to drop it into the can in case was a short fella. Is the bolt a sensible length? (I assume I can get the baffles out with the can still fitted to the bike).
ta
Nick
Click to expand...

Little grub screws are easy to take out, however if you have fat finger syndrome like me, ;), just stick a magnet behind the screw before you take it out, and it it comes off the allen key it will stick to the magnet, rather than fall down the hole.............
 
I had the full set up on Twin cam , also hilltopped. I found it was too noisy with the baffles out , and replaced them ! Easy to try with the euro 3 .Doesnt take long to remove and replace
 
I never learn...
Just put a full system on the R9T (no baffle or flap)... That's too noisy as well!
Baffle in and it's just about tolerable... And feels smoother also.

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r1happy said:
What was your final power output figure with a full system?
Click to expand...

With a full system (baffles in) on the dyna at Hilltop my bike was - Max power: 105.6bhp @8069rpm Max Torque, 74.49ft/lb @ 5438rpm
after ECU 'fiddling' - Max power: 115.59bhp @7740rpm, Max Torque 85.81ft/lb @ 5026rpm

So clearly an improvement on the figures with both power and torque at max lower down the rev range.
In 'real' terms I found the bike smoother and the pick up around 4500-5000 revs better than before. Not a dramatic improvement but on balance worthwhile.

The bike was also slightly louder following the hilltopping so I've decided to leave the baffles in as it sounds pretty good with the full system as is.
 
I'm running on a Euro 3 baffles out and it sounds mint, more so when you take the power off and it grumbles and pops :)
 
Nick G said:
With a full system (baffles in) on the dyna at Hilltop my bike was - Max power: 105.6bhp @8069rpm Max Torque, 74.49ft/lb @ 5438rpm
after ECU 'fiddling' - Max power: 115.59bhp @7740rpm, Max Torque 85.81ft/lb @ 5026rpm

So clearly an improvement on the figures with both power and torque at max lower down the rev range.
In 'real' terms I found the bike smoother and the pick up around 4500-5000 revs better than before. Not a dramatic improvement but on balance worthwhile.

The bike was also slightly louder following the hilltopping so I've decided to leave the baffles in as it sounds pretty good with the full system as is.
Click to expand...

That's interesting - seems like you needed the Hilltop mod to actually get any benefit at all from the full system, as my stock bike had before figures of 105.85 bhp at 7861 rpm, and 77.17 ft lb at 6731 rpm. My after figures were 111.27 bhp at 7656 rpm, and 84.5 ft lb at 6565 rpm.

I also noticed a change in the sound, though didn't feel it was an improvement, as after tuning it was a softer less hard edged sound under acceleration compared to before, which I didn't like as much.
 
Pardon my ignorance or mixing up of Models but does the 1200gsa not make 125 bhp and 92 torques as is? Or am I mixing up my HP and BHP,s??
 
Big Geordi said:
Pardon my ignorance or mixing up of Models but does the 1200gsa not make 125 bhp and 92 torques as is? Or am I mixing up my HP and BHP,s??
Click to expand...

At the flywheel that is what the 125 is quoted.

The poster here is quoting rear wheel figures - so with losses in gearbox and drivetrain.


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I'm running titanium akro headers and baffles out euro3 with hilltop - it is loud but not excessive and as has been said lovely growls and pops on overrun.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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