3D printer

Mark,

Another off-topic challenge for you perhaps:

I have a K1600GT without the sound system, but it still comes with speaker grills. I would like to replace these, but ideally make them into little cubby holes like on the GSA.

Maybe one for winter when you're bored? :)
 
Your welcome mate, also the Filament they sell is really quality stuff, but believe it or not for just things to knock out kids toys and things for the garden etc, the filaments Amazons choice are cheap but do the job perfectly, little tip PLA is great for kids its bio, but disintegrates in the sun and weather, PETG is flexible and best for making bungs etc for the bike and resists oil and the sun, ABS is good hard and solid, but be careful of the fumes when printing they are toxic mate, I only print ABS in the garage and with a window open.

Great thanks!


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Small frame bungs we can do - mudguards etc I’d rather get some professional training and experience etc - I hope you understand.

If I’m the meantime you can send an stl file we can certainly fekk around with it :)

I was half teasing, but joking apart I do need a bracket making that fits under the fork bridge that I can mount to.
But yes thanks, will do.
 
O rings are the way to go AFAIC


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I think I must respectfully disagree. With the "same part flanges" you have 360 degree contact multiplied by how many flanges you have holding the bungs in place, and because they are oversize and flex they are likely to grip strongly with quite a lot of force, and continue to do so if removed and refitted. Also because they flex they take up any variations in size, paint thickness, etc, and any one of them is probably going to make a waterproof seal, but you also have redundancy with multiple seals.

With Mark's possible solution the interference fit of the ribs is what will be holding the bung in, so variations in size will be more critical, and if these ribs flex sideways even slightly, the outer surfaces will become angled and you will then have less material contacting and gripping the inside of the frame tube, unlike the ring type where the more they flex the more material is in contact to provide grip. They are also less likely to grip as well if removed and replaced. The ribs will also provide no sealing, so you have the complexity of an additional part, the O ring, but unlike the flange type, with this the sealing depends entirely on the bung remaining in hard contact with the O ring and not working its way out even slightly.
 
Mark, that printer looks fantastic. Personally I've had a lot to do with 3D printing over the years and it makes up a lot of my day job. But I am doing little bits and pieces for the bike, tools etc. Oh how I'd love to have my own printer!

I've got something I've just re- done for my TC and it might be something you could have a play with.

What's your email, I flick up an STL to you. Cheers.

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Just some feedback on the standard flange type frame plugs, just wondered if anyone else has had the following issue.
I have used these in the frame holes just under the rear of the tank, the one into which the red plug Mark is holding in this post would fit. If a tight fit, I have found that when the motor is very hot, air expansion under the plug causes it to pop off.
In one case this actually shot out while waiting at the traffic lights and hit a car in the next lane.
 
Just some feedback on the standard flange type frame plugs, just wondered if anyone else has had the following issue.
I have used these in the frame holes just under the rear of the tank, the one into which the red plug Mark is holding in this post would fit. If a tight fit, I have found that when the motor is very hot, air expansion under the plug causes it to pop off.
In one case this actually shot out while waiting at the traffic lights and hit a car in the next lane.
Interesting!

I guess the lesson from that is to put them in only when the bike is thoroughly heated up. That way when it is cooler the trapped air will contract and hold the plug even more firmly in place.

I guess the other option is to put a pinhole in it, maybe angled up from the bottom edge so that it lets air in and out but won't allow water in.
 
I think I must respectfully disagree. With the "same part flanges" you have 360 degree contact multiplied by how many flanges you have holding the bungs in place, and because they are oversize and flex they are likely to grip strongly with quite a lot of force, and continue to do so if removed and refitted. Also because they flex they take up any variations in size, paint thickness, etc, and any one of them is probably going to make a waterproof seal, but you also have redundancy with multiple seals.

With Mark's possible solution the interference fit of the ribs is what will be holding the bung in, so variations in size will be more critical, and if these ribs flex sideways even slightly, the outer surfaces will become angled and you will then have less material contacting and gripping the inside of the frame tube, unlike the ring type where the more they flex the more material is in contact to provide grip. They are also less likely to grip as well if removed and replaced. The ribs will also provide no sealing, so you have the complexity of an additional part, the O ring, but unlike the flange type, with this the sealing depends entirely on the bung remaining in hard contact with the O ring and not working its way out even slightly.

Hi Fred :) excellent post and I would normally totally agree with you (and actually still do) however in practice the seal is such on the o ring variant that I can hardly pull it out with just one hand, such is the grip. The other type to which you refer are removed far easier.

I’m very very happy to video this for you but please take my word for it.

My only concern, as raised by a subsequent post, is the one of expansion! I suspect some sort of tiny tiny vent would allow the escape of pressure...... I need to think on this.


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I also don’t want to over think this either as at the end of the day it’s just a set of hole covers!


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Mark, that printer looks fantastic. Personally I've had a lot to do with 3D printing over the years and it makes up a lot of my day job. But I am doing little bits and pieces for the bike, tools etc. Oh how I'd love to have my own printer!

I've got something I've just re- done for my TC and it might be something you could have a play with.

What's your email, I flick up an STL to you. Cheers.

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mark@cymarc.co.uk and of course I’d be pleased to help if I can!


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Hi Fred :) excellent post and I would normally totally agree with you (and actually still do) however in practice the seal is such on the o ring variant that I can hardly pull it out with just one hand, such is the grip. The other type to which you refer are removed far easier.

I’m very very happy to video this for you but please take my word for it.

My only concern, as raised by a subsequent post, is the one of expansion! I suspect some sort of tiny tiny vent would allow the escape of pressure...... I need to think on this.


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No need for a video, I'm only commenting because I found the post interesting, you have hands on experience, which trumps any amount of forum theorising! :thumb2
 
No need for a video, I'm only commenting because I found the post interesting, you have hands on experience, which trumps any amount of forum theorising! :thumb2

Well I guess so! But thanks for your input


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And this thread shows why the site is worth £12.

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Totally. The amount of support and help I get on stuff I’m clueless about (and there’s lots :) if put into monetary context far exceeds my subscription.

Didn’t mean to hijack the thread......


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Totally. The amount of support and help I get on stuff I’m clueless about (and there’s lots :) if put into monetary context far exceeds my subscription.

Didn’t mean to hijack the thread......


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It is interesting that people do actually spend the time to help and give advice.

Shows what nice individuals motorcyclists are

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You wanted ideas Mark..
What about a universal mounting plate for bullet type cameras?
I made a simple angle out of ally plate and with the right amount of filing it fits under the FOS indicator mount?


BTW keep up the great work
 
We are looking for a printer for work.. to test run mouldings prior to having the tooling made, single colour will be fine.


don't want to spend a lot and 6" cube would do us... but do want quite good finish on the samples... can anyone recommend a make / model at all if we have experts who's looked into this... Thanks :)
 
It’s got twin heads which means it can print twice as fast or print in two colours and the toughest stuff it can handle is carbon fibre reinforced material which, apparently, is stronger than ‘hard’ ABS.


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After the ribbed knobbler in the previous reply I only read as far as "It's got twin heads" before my mind immediately took this post off in a completely different direction.

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