Well Scott from Port Performance emailed me today with more information on this build. Details copied below.
I've given him a link to this thread topic as I know he'll be interested in updates, and he may join in with conversation
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hi Steve,
This conversion is becoming reasonably popular and believe it or not I am responding to emails about it from all over the world.
The brake line I use is 1250mm or 50inches long.
I route it from the L/H handle bar master cylinder, which I assume you have already purchased, and down underneath the petrol tank, along the frame and to a customised fitting on the rear foot brake master cylinder. Once the tank is removed it is a simple straight forward routing.
The concerns I find when tapping the original master cylinder is as always, once you drill it and tap it, it cannot be returned to its original state. Although these are the same master cylinder that Honda uses on a lot of their vehicles and a reasonably available either new or used, as a mechanic I shiver at the thought of ruining a part beyond repair.
There is a company in the USA called HoHey Designs. A quick google search will provide you with their website. They make a fitting that serves a similar purpose on stunt bikes. I only began making my fittings because the part that HoHey makes is not available to Australian residents. This may well be the case with the UK as well. It’d be worth a look for you though. On their website, under the category of best sellers, you will find the HHD Rear Hand Brake Fitting. You will need the red one.
Warlord EDIT : added website link
http://www.hoheydesigns.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=199
Warlord EDIT : Alternative supplier link
http://thesicshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_58_213_331&products_id=1020
I usually remove the rear brake reservoir completely.
The bleeding of the system once fitting is done at the rear caliper. Be aware that the fluid level will now drop from your handlebar master cylinder.
I replace the park brake lever with a small lever and perch, supplied by a company here in Australia called MCS. Part Number LR2. With another small modification you can make it self-locking. Online stores like MXStore and Rocky Mountain have levers like this in abundance. I have also received feedback that ATV levers or push bike levers will also do the job.
I usually loop out the park brake indicator light, at the inhibitor style switch on the lever. Let’s face it, if you need a light in your dash to tell you that your park brake is on, should you really be riding a 1000cc motorcycle??
Feel free to contact me if you need anything else and if you do manage to finish the project, email me a video. I’m starting to get a good collection from all over the globe, I’d love a UK one, and you would be my first.
Stay in touch and good luck
Scott
Port Performance