2015 gs adventure handlebars

Jamows

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I have dropped a bollock and bought a gsa but just found out the bars are too wide to get down the side of the house. Any ideas on how to make it a few inches narrower ?..
 
Take a row of bricks out
 
I have dropped a bollock and bought a gsa but just found out the bars are too wide to get down the side of the house. Any ideas on how to make it a few inches narrower ?..

Not sure if I can help here...... I think the cost will be prohibitive tbh




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How about some form of front wheel dolly that has castors and allows the front wheel to be turned ?
 
How about some form of front wheel dolly that has castors and allows the front wheel to be turned ?

I was going to suggest something similar. If the path down the side of your house is nice and flat, or can be made so, then you could put the bike on the centre stand one of these with the bars turned sideways and then push it:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N7MH3I4/?coliid=I37IBXOFR7HJXV&colid=2U8OPBSUJI9MT&psc=1

61w1WIwNQvL._SL1200_.jpg
 
I'm about to show my lack of engineering qualifications!:hammer

Why couldn't you cut out a section in the middle between the clamps and put in or over a sleeve for the required strength?
 
If it was filleted and welded properly I suspect it would be strong enough but, for me, the trolley dolly is the answer????


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I'm about to show my lack of engineering qualifications!:hammer

Why couldn't you cut out a section in the middle between the clamps and put in or over a sleeve for the required strength?

There isn't much straight bar outside the clamps before it starts curving and also starts tapering down in size. This means you might only lose 10 mm each side, perhaps up to 15 at a push before the clamps would not have sufficient straight bar remaining to clamp on.

The other approach, to avoid an ugly join and possible weak point in the middle, could be to move the reservoirs and levers plus switch blocks and grips further inboard allowing you to cut some bar off of each end, but again I think you are limited in how much, this time because you can only move the fluid reservoirs a limited amount towards the middle before the connectors for the pipes hit the curve of the handlebars. I know this because I have moved mine inboard to allow a little more slack and avoid re-routing the pipes when installing my risers. I haven't moved my switch blocks and grips, but if you did you would have to drill new holes in the bar ends for the screws that lock them into position.

Another option might be to use the bars from a different BMW bike - maybe something the R1200R bars would fit but be narrower?
 
I was going to suggest something similar. If the path down the side of your house is nice and flat, or can be made so, then you could put the bike on the centre stand one of these with the bars turned sideways and then push it:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N7MH3I4/?coliid=I37IBXOFR7HJXV&colid=2U8OPBSUJI9MT&psc=1

61w1WIwNQvL._SL1200_.jpg
Just a heads up, I bought one of these so that I could push my GS tight up against the garage wall. The dolly in the picture is too small for the GS centre stand. I had to get the grinder out to make it fit. I then found out that trying to push the bike in a straight line whilst keeping the front wheel off the floor was a difficult manoeuvre, as you have to really push down on the back of the bike to lift the front wheel. If the front wheel drops and touches the ground the bike turns. And finally, the slightest uneven surface or piece of gravel will jam the wheels.

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Just looked in a little more detail at the above centre-stand dolly on Amazon. Says max load bearing weight is 100 kg. That’s not going to cut it on a GS!


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Have you tried taking the hand guards off, there is a big bar end spacer each side,
If that enough reduce the spacers or fit bark busters,
 


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