Ignition key loose?

King Rat

King Rat

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It isn't the wiring at the headstock, that was loosened years ago..... turn ign on and everything normal. Wriggle key and it all goes off, not turn it, just wriggle a bit in the slot. Is there a quick fix please? Or do I need a new ignition barrel with all that involves?

Could I use a flick switch for ignition instead, or is there an electrical reason it wouldn't work? I need to get back on the road. I can't carry everything on the Xco.
 
My previous 1150 had ignition failure about 10 years ago on a France trip. A local moto mechanic ran a wire to bypass the ignition and an in-line fuse was my key for the rest of the trip and several months beyond!


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Spangle said:
My previous 1150 had ignition failure about 10 years ago on a France trip. A local moto mechanic ran a wire to bypass the ignition and an in-line fuse was my key for the rest of the trip and several months beyond!


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Click to expand...

Thanks. I have a friend who is an RAF trained electronics whizz - he can sort me a flick switch system out of view. Maybe a fancy micro press button somewhere!
 
King Rat said:
It isn't the wiring at the headstock, that was loosened years ago..... turn ign on and everything normal. Wriggle key and it all goes off, not turn it, just wriggle a bit in the slot. Is there a quick fix please? Or do I need a new ignition barrel with all that involves?

Could I use a flick switch for ignition instead, or is there an electrical reason it wouldn't work? I need to get back on the road. I can't carry everything on the Xco.
Click to expand...

It's not the key or ignition barrel. It's the white plastic ignition case at the bottom of the ignition holder, it's all part of the ignition loom.

Motorworks part number ELA06103.

The white plastic part is the source of your problem. The ignition key doesn't have to be touched when replacing the ignition loom.
 

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Steptoe said:
It's not the key or ignition barrel. It's the white plastic ignition case at the bottom of the ignition holder, it's all part of the ignition loom.

Motorworks part number ELA06103.

The white plastic part is the source of your problem. The ignition key doesn't have to be touched when replacing the ignition loom.
Click to expand...

Cheers Neil... I will get the tank off and Motorworks phoned! I know what I shall be doing tonight... digging around trying to get the old one off. :beerjug:
 
King Rat said:
Cheers Neil... I will get the tank off and Motorworks phoned! I know what I shall be doing tonight... digging around trying to get the old one off. :beerjug:
Click to expand...

One end is plugged in under the tank. The other end, the white plastic part is held in place by a tiny grub screw on the r/h side of the ignition housing halfway up the body, under a small blob of (usually red) sealer, dig it out and insert a small jewelers screw driver to undo the small brass grub screw. Order a new grub screw when you order the ignition loom as its easily lost . With the grub screw out simply pull the white cap off the bottom of the ignition unit,
 
That’s exactly what you did to replace my temporary inline fuse ignition switch Neil - I remember now..!

Steptoe said:
It's not the key or ignition barrel. It's the white plastic ignition case at the bottom of the ignition holder, it's all part of the ignition loom.

Motorworks part number ELA06103.

The white plastic part is the source of your problem. The ignition key doesn't have to be touched when replacing the ignition loom.
Click to expand...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
JohnnyBoxer said:
I did tell you Steptoe would know, when you were asking on Facebook!
Click to expand...

I don't like to keep phoning him though... and as he is 200-odd miles away I can't get the bike there for him to do the work, but I do give him business when I can. He even stoops low enough to work on my bike. :beerjug:
 
It's a really easy job just make sure key is in off position when you remove the old lower half of the ignition switch, and that new switch is in same position when refitting
 
Bits have arrived, including new grub screw...... I have spent nearly 4 hours trying to get the old grub screw out! I can't see it, my eyes aren't good enough, even with my glasses on..... fumbled about in the hole with jewellers screwdriver to no avail. How do you get at it? Does the whole front end have to be dropped to allow access properly? :blast
 
Scrape the paint out of the screw head first......like Steptoe already said.
 
King Rat said:
Bits have arrived, including new grub screw...... I have spent nearly 4 hours trying to get the old grub screw out! I can't see it, my eyes aren't good enough, even with my glasses on..... fumbled about in the hole with jewellers screwdriver to no avail. How do you get at it? Does the whole front end have to be dropped to allow access properly? :blast
Click to expand...

Sounds much like me when I tried my first shag with Llyn Griffiths behind the bike shed :D
 
Timolgra said:
Scrape the paint out of the screw head first......like Steptoe already said.
Click to expand...

I have done...it is dark in that wee hole. Even if you try to illuminate it with several LEDs from not very far away. Screwdriver fouls the fork leg too - not as straightforward as it first seemed. It will have to wait now - wedding tomorrow.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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