Flapper valve

Yep copperslip or similar anti seize compound will do the trick, use a small paintbrush & ignition on / off to exercise the valve while you are doing the application

Copperslip is not as good mate, the heat problem, you need Nickel it is way better it with stands 1450 C but yep ignition on to move the flap around, to get the anti seize in all the nooks and crannies possible....:beerjug:
 
I'm thinking of fitting grease nipples to the flap. Then it can take part in my regular maintenance regime.
 
Just take it off and throw it in the bin, it is pointless anyway. Took mine out and replaced it with a sleeve.

You can’t do that on the LC - it’s a single piece of headers including the flap part. Hence it’s £1200 for a replacement!


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Have a look at this smaller tube currently on eBay...

PERMATEX NICKEL Anti-Seize lubricant (14g). Made in USA.
Resists High Temps upto 2400*F/1315*C. prevents Seizing and Corrosion.

*Price: £4.00. Plus UK Mainland postage at £3.00.
 
Have a look at this smaller tube currently on eBay...

PERMATEX NICKEL Anti-Seize lubricant (14g). Made in USA.
Resists High Temps upto 2400*F/1315*C. prevents Seizing and Corrosion.

*Price: £4.00. Plus UK Mainland postage at £3.00.

Just did mine over the weekend, difficult to get it into the moving bits but tried and smeared it well in (using gloves it says it is cancerous!). They posted in a couple of days, lets see, i will report back in a year or two.

PS only two tubes left, so be quick....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PERMATEX...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
 
Mine needs doing, reported by BMW earlier this month during the 36k service. Advised to replace the whole exhaust at upwards of £1000 or leave it (their words).
What will the effect be of leaving it jammed in the open position?

Loss of back pressure needed at low revs to keep torque up = loss of low rpm torque. No difference at high rpm.
 
Loss of back pressure needed at low revs to keep torque up = loss of low rpm torque. No difference at high rpm.

The flappy vavle is for noise regs, no difference to performence. Even if you put a full system with very little back pressure it does not affect the lower end of the rev range.
 
well after reading this thread ,and i know the flapper does nowt really,but as i had some spare time i had a go at mine yesterday and yes it was seized ,anyway with the cables off and plenty lube i got it free ,all good now ,but if there is a perminent fix ,ie grease nipple or special grease i would like to see it .or how you would use the grease i dont know as it seems the pivots are captive .
 
well after reading this thread ,and i know the flapper does nowt really,but as i had some spare time i had a go at mine yesterday and yes it was seized ,anyway with the cables off and plenty lube i got it free ,all good now ,but if there is a perminent fix ,ie grease nipple or special grease i would like to see it .or how you would use the grease i dont know as it seems the pivots are captive .

well done on free-ing yours up

can I ask, how "free" did you get it? did you manage to get it to the position that the spring on top would snap it open if you manually closed the flap?

I have spent ages on mine - working it open and closed, using various oils and anti-sieze sprays - it is still quite stiff to open and close? was it ever "free" or is this as good as it gets?
 
well done on free-ing yours up

can I ask, how "free" did you get it? did you manage to get it to the position that the spring on top would snap it open if you manually closed the flap?

I have spent ages on mine - working it open and closed, using various oils and anti-sieze sprays - it is still quite stiff to open and close? was it ever "free" or is this as good as it gets?

take the cables off at the top ,take the end can off,keep spraying with wd 40 and use a pair of grips on the pivot at the top were the cables go in ,it took some time ,then i used copper grease ,it soon freed itself off.i know it wont last ,this grease nipple thing sounds a great idea,when you think its ok turn the ignition on and off it should move freely when you turn the ignition on ,and if you leave the end can off you can see it moving when ignition is turned .
 
The flappy vavle is for noise regs, no difference to performence. Even if you put a full system with very little back pressure it does not affect the lower end of the rev range.

Yes, it's primary purpose is noise control at lower revs...I also thought that it did have an effect on torque but guess that the cat presents most of the back pressure to the exhaust system.
 
On Ducati Multistradas, many folk disconnnect the cables and the valve defaults to an open position. This throws a warning up on the dash as there is an apparent fault but Healtech and others make a dongle which plugs in under the seat somewhere to eliminate the unnecessary/irritating warning light.

Maybe similar available for the BMW?
 
I removed the whole bloody lot from my 2013 Hexhead GSA, threw up a fault code but no lights. Happy days.

And the onboard telemetry reported it back to the mothership ;)

Your on there naughty list for life now :nono
 


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