Flapper valve

gspod

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Hi, looking for some knowledge please.
Just picked up the 14 plate from its 24k mile service and the BMW chap told me that the exhaust flapper valve had “seized”. They managed to free it up and sprayed it with WD40 so it’s working at the moment but that won’t last and it will seize again.

My question is: If I take the cover off and spray it with WD40 on a regular basis will this keep it working okay? If so how often do you think I need to do it?

Many thanks
D
 
Hi, looking for some knowledge please.
Just picked up the 14 plate from its 24k mile service and the BMW chap told me that the exhaust flapper valve had “seized”. They managed to free it up and sprayed it with WD40 so it’s working at the moment but that won’t last and it will seize again.

My question is: If I take the cover off and spray it with WD40 on a regular basis will this keep it working okay? If so how often do you think I need to do it?

Many thanks
D

If its anything like the hexhead once it starts to sieze up you might as well chuck it in bin, its nothing but a useless lump of German pig iron anyway.
 
they are part of the front pipe,you can junk it ,normally they get stuck in the open position easiest access is to take the end can off then you can see it
 
Order a little pot of Nickel anti seize below, and give the inside a nice thin coating, and normally that should keep you going, I done mine from new.

https://www.dittmar-sba.de/WEICON-Anti-Seize-ASN-120-P-Nickel-Spezial-26050012.html


see thread below for picture


https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showt...st-valve-seizure/page7?highlight=exhaust+flap

^^^^this. I do mine March and October every year. Takes about 20 mins. WD40 (or anything else) will evaporate in seconds and is a waste of time for preventing seizure.
 
^^^^this. I do mine March and October every year. Takes about 20 mins. WD40 (or anything else) will evaporate in seconds and is a waste of time for preventing seizure.
Brilliant, thanks chaps just what I was looking for :beerjug:
 
^^^^this. I do mine March and October every year. Takes about 20 mins. WD40 (or anything else) will evaporate in seconds and is a waste of time for preventing seizure.

but you can't get anywhere near the bearing / bush material with it.

Mine has also seized, over winter most likely, ive had the can off and disconnected the cables then free'd it up with plus-gas penetrant spray. It still isn't exactly "easy moving", but it does move when the cables are attached and the power-on cycle completes.

What difference does smearing nickel anti-sieze make?
 
but you can't get anywhere near the bearing / bush material with it.

Mine has also seized, over winter most likely, ive had the can off and disconnected the cables then free'd it up with plus-gas penetrant spray. It still isn't exactly "easy moving", but it does move when the cables are attached and the power-on cycle completes.

What difference does smearing nickel anti-sieze make?

Maybe helps keeping a bit of rust build up away, who knows, but if it helps why do you not try it first, and then report back after winter..............:nenau:nenau
 
Maybe helps keeping a bit of rust build up away, who knows, but if it helps why do you not try it first, and then report back after winter..............:nenau:nenau

yeah I will try it - i'm annoyed with myself that I have let it go that way, I like to keep on top of these things.

I understand, from other threads, that the bushing material that the valve shaft spins in is some sort of graphite - other than constantly wiggling it from open to closed, any thoughts on how to best free it up? Even after spending a lot of time on it, it still isn't exactly "free" in its movement.
 
yeah I will try it - i'm annoyed with myself that I have let it go that way, I like to keep on top of these things.

I understand, from other threads, that the bushing material that the valve shaft spins in is some sort of graphite - other than constantly wiggling it from open to closed, any thoughts on how to best free it up? Even after spending a lot of time on it, it still isn't exactly "free" in its movement.

Ta mate will be really handy info to see what happens to yours.............:thumb2:thumb2
 
but you can't get anywhere near the bearing / bush material with it.

Mine has also seized, over winter most likely, ive had the can off and disconnected the cables then free'd it up with plus-gas penetrant spray. It still isn't exactly "easy moving", but it does move when the cables are attached and the power-on cycle completes.

What difference does smearing nickel anti-sieze make?

In truth I don’t know. All I can say is that I had 3 GSes before my current one and the exhausts were replaced four times in total. Since I have been doing this on my current GS I haven’t had a single problem and I’ve had it for three years. There are others on this forum that have had the same experiences. Could be coincidence but for the sake of 20 minutes every six months I’m not going to stop now.
 
In truth I don’t know. All I can say is that I had 3 GSes before my current one and the exhausts were replaced four times in total. Since I have been doing this on my current GS I haven’t had a single problem and I’ve had it for three years. There are others on this forum that have had the same experiences. Could be coincidence but for the sake of 20 minutes every six months I’m not going to stop now.

My bike 2 years old now, not stuck yet, hope I have not called my luck in.............same procedure little smear every 6 months.........:beerjug:
 
Mine needs doing, reported by BMW earlier this month during the 36k service. Advised to replace the whole exhaust at upwards of £1000 or leave it (their words).
What will the effect be of leaving it jammed in the open position?
 
Mine needs doing, reported by BMW earlier this month during the 36k service. Advised to replace the whole exhaust at upwards of £1000 or leave it (their words).
What will the effect be of leaving it jammed in the open position?

IMHO a little bit of back pressure and tad more noise, basically that is all I think.
 
Mine needs doing, reported by BMW earlier this month during the 36k service. Advised to replace the whole exhaust at upwards of £1000 or leave it (their words).
What will the effect be of leaving it jammed in the open position?

What will the effect be of leaving it jammed in the open position?[/QUOTE]

none
 
In truth I don’t know. All I can say is that I had 3 GSes before my current one and the exhausts were replaced four times in total. Since I have been doing this on my current GS I haven’t had a single problem and I’ve had it for three years. There are others on this forum that have had the same experiences. Could be coincidence but for the sake of 20 minutes every six months I’m not going to stop now.

My current GS (2017) has had the exhaust replaced twice.

I've ordered some nickel anti-seize...
 
Order a little pot of Nickel anti seize below, and give the inside a nice thin coating, and normally that should keep you going, I done mine from new.

https://www.dittmar-sba.de/WEICON-Anti-Seize-ASN-120-P-Nickel-Spezial-26050012.html


see thread below for picture


https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showt...st-valve-seizure/page7?highlight=exhaust+flap

Yep copperslip or similar anti seize compound will do the trick, use a small paintbrush & ignition on / off to exercise the valve while you are doing the application
 


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