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Kritou

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Lifted from the latest ULYSSES newsletter

One year on - reflections on the Honda DCT gearbox
DCT (double clutch transmission) gearboxes have been increasingly introduced in cars, and particularly high-performance cars, being activated 'manually' via flappy paddles on the steering wheel. The principle of the DCT is that the next gear, either up or down, is always engaged within the gearbox, being activated electronically via one of the two clutches. Thus it's totally different to the conventional torque converter automatic gearbox as the gears engage mechanically and there is no slip resulting in power loss. The result is that gear changes are virtually instantaneous, and seamless & far faster than can be achieved by a human. Watch/listen to any on board footage of a F1 car and you will see what I mean. At present Honda are the only motorcycle manufacturer to incorporate DCT in a motorcycle, optional on some models, and the only type of transmission on some.
Now to real life experience. My primary motivation to change to a DCT was the increasing Arthritis in my left hand. Living much of my life outside the UK I had for many years driven cars with auto gearboxes so had no concerns regarding getting used to an auto box on 2 wheels. 30 minutes on a test ride of an Africa Twin DCT had me convinced of its merits so after 11 totally reliable years on the GS I bought an almost new AT DCT.
Pros:
 It's impossible to stall it. Repeat impossible to stall it.
 The engine starts in Neutral and Drive is selected via a
button on the rh grip.
 As there is no creep, when you select Drive with the
engine at idle there is no risk of an unscheduled take off.
 You can ride it in Drive mode (default setting) or via the
rh controls, select one of 3 Sports modes which increase the revs of both up & down changes. The Sports settings range from fast to frantic.
 Regardless of what's selected the gearbox will revert to 1st gear when you stop.
 If you drop the side stand whilst remaining in Drive, the gearbox goes into Neutral
 When in Drive, or any of the Sports settings, you can, if you choose, change up or down using convenient thumb & index finger buttons on the left grip.
 In addition there is a button on the RH grip which cancels the auto gear change, gears then being changed 'manually' via the up/down buttons on the left grip. In this manual mode the gearbox automatically reverts to 1st gear when you stop.
 Unlike car auto boxes there is no creep when stationary and in Drive.
 There are built in sensors which sense when going downhill, and depending on the gradient, will automatically drop down a gear, or gears to provide engine braking. In this scenario, if you have manually dropped down gears the sensors will hold the lower gear until you accelerate.
 Uphill under load the box will change down like any auto box.
 I tend to approach roundabouts and flick down gears using the
down button to provide engine braking, which given the instantaneous changes is very satisfying. However, when
lazy I just let the box change down as speed diminishes.
 There is ABSOLUTELY no way a manual gearbox could beat the gear engagement so acceleration is seamless and
can, if so inclined, be very fast.
5
Cons:
 If you are a 'throttle blipper' (necessary left over from carburettors and 'boy racers') at move off then beware, as it will be off, probably without you, as the engine on the AT is very responsive. Having said that the take up of the drive is easy to control/ master, however if you 'give it a handful' it will win any traffic light GP.
 Walking speed control in traffic is easy to master (remember you can't stall it), however U turns require concentration on throttle control, as there is no clutch to slip. Dragging the rear brake is the key, as is a bit of practice.
 You can't park it in gear on an incline, however the missing clutch lever has been substituted with a, deliberately, configured out of hand span park brake lever which operates via a set of small brake pads on the rear disc. You can't drive off if you haven't released the park brake.
Conclusion:
 Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Audi, Mercedes, Jaguar and many other manufacturers are converts, as am I.
 Honda have managed to package a DCT into a motorcycle gearbox with an insignificant increase in weight over a
manual gearbox. Expect others to follow as 'Quick shifters' are hard on gear trains and only operate above a certain
rev range. Strong leaks suggest the next Honda Fireblade will have a DCT gearbox.
 Not having to factor in gear selection makes riding more stress free and one just concentrates on all the other
inputs/outputs.
 Report from the pillion is no jerky down changes.
Go and try one, especially as the UK in general still considers auto boxes on cars as the work of Satan. It certainly doesn't take the enjoyment away, and in fact introduces new experiences which are enjoyable.
And finally again, YOU CAN’T STALL IT
 
Still love my DCT as well, nearly 2 years old. Was out on it today offroading. Great bike.
 
I ran a dct Integra 750 scooter for a year in 2016. It replaced a 10yo Tmax with a gazilion miles that was becoming baggy and expensive. I found the overall experience of the Integra totally underwhelming. As I documented here and elsewhere at the time, it was an expensive machine comparable in price to a Tmax. The only genuinely better aspect of it than the much older Tmax, was fuel economy, which averaged at 65-70mpg and was roughly twice as good as the Tmax. For what was arguably half the performance though, despite the on paper credentials of the Honda. Moreover, mine was shoddily built, with average to crap quality, from paintwork to pig iron stands and sharp edges on the switcgear housings. Suspension was awful too for a proper bike as that was advertised at the time. Underbraked too. The worst part of it was and remains for me the engine, which is a unit likely to be better as a generator or auxiliarry power unit for anything other than a motorcycle. No revs, no peak, no rythm or the right noise whatsoever. This horrific power unit (easily the worst motorcycle engine in my riding life - and i have owned some proper dogs in my days) was ilmatched to a dct, the second worse part of the Integra. Slowwitted and utterly dim in Drive, annoyingly aggressive and sticky in Sport. Calibrating repeatedly from service never helped. Only way was manual use of buttons, so yes a saving of pedal moves, but not really smooth as a scooter. So city life that it was meant for was inferior to pretty much any scooter in the market over 125cc. Touring and open road life was compromised by a dog of an engine. ANY motorcycle made after 1980 was easily better. Proof of all the above is in the pudding of course as the Integra sold about 4 bikes in as many years.

I did test run truth be told a dct AT and found both motor and dct match on that bike much better, but still not better than a manual. Unlike many car makers -bmw, vw, porsche that i know of- dct on a honda motorcycle is a half baked effort still.
 
I have rode the NC750 dct, I found it, fast and nippy, very good for in town but over revving and low top end made it poor, in the NC I found it a nightmare on the motor way in cross wind, that's nothing to do with box. of course.

I also rode a VFR 1200 dct, I found the auto box awkward and changes were not at the best times, IE roundabouts etc.

For now its Manuals for me, I never found changing gear manually as a task, its instinctive.

Ged
 
The 750 twin is simply half of a Honda Jazz engine...so is known to be low revving.

Horses for courses I suppose, most won't get DCT as they must have a manual (Some of the same group who have up and down quickshifters :blast )
 
The 750 twin is simply half of a Honda Jazz engine...so is known to be low revving.

Horses for courses I suppose, most won't get DCT as they must have a manual (Some of the same group who have up and down quickshifters :blast )

Where DCT becomes tricky to use is in technical situations where you need to disengage the engine from the rear wheel while moving. Or engage the rear wheel when stopped. Mostly off-road techniques.

You can't just kill the engine up a steep hill in gear (or let it stall in gear), and let the bike hold itself. Soon as the engine is turned off, it'll go into Neutral.

You can't save yourself from whisky throttle over large jolts (rocks, steps, boulders, roots), when dexterity is needed... especially on steep gradients. This is it's biggest downfall.

You can't drop the clutch to jump front wheel over steps, obstacles, fallen trees, ruts, gulleys.

You can't pull wheelies outside of 1st gear as DCT won't let you select a higher gear with front wheel in air.

You can't turn the engine on while rolling... you have to be stationary.

You can't turn ABS on or off while rolling... you have to be stationary.

You can't select Neutral manually while moving, you have to be stationary.

So there are quite a few DCT pains....
 
So there are quite a few DCT pains....


None of the above has been an issue to me in the 6000 miles I've done so far, my only slight gripe would be it changing when I didn't want it but everything else outweighs using a manual for me, I'm seriously tempted by the new tenere but no DCT has put me off buying one.
 
None of the above has been an issue to me in the 6000 miles I've done so far, my only slight gripe would be it changing when I didn't want it but everything else outweighs using a manual for me, I'm seriously tempted by the new tenere but no DCT has put me off buying one.

Oh don't get me wrong, I love my DCT.

I'm removing the parking brake and replacing it with a rear brake lever directly linked to the rear brake caliper hydraulically. This means I should be able to control the rear wheel power better from the handlebars if my feet are needed on the ground !!

This I hope, will be the holy grail of DCT off-roading, as you can't stall the bike (unless it's on it's side !!) so it's brilliant then, just PPPPPPOOOOOOWWWWWWEEEEEEERRRRRRRRR.
 
But as you allude to in your thread/question about a CRF 250 and acceptance that something lighter would be better...the AT in either guise isn't really an off road bike. Yeah, it'll happily do some green lanes, forest trails etc but anything technical where pppooowwweeerrr wheelies blah blah bah are needed...wrong bike altogether. Consummate travel bike tho.
 
But as you allude to in your thread/question about a CRF 250 and acceptance that something lighter would be better...the AT in either guise isn't really an off road bike. Yeah, it'll happily do some green lanes, forest trails etc but anything technical where pppooowwweeerrr wheelies blah blah bah are needed...wrong bike altogether. Consummate travel bike tho.

I agree, but being in the West Midlands I need to travel for at least 1 hour in any direction to get to anything even remotely decent.

As I don't own a truck, trailer, van..... I have to ride there and back. That would be a PITA on a 250cc..... especially doing a lot of miles in one day.

The bigger Adventure Bikes are perfect for that, and as someone said yesterday..... on a big adventure bike you actually get to see the scenery for a change !!
 
On my Europe tour this may my SATNAV VI recorded 3700 gear changes, that's weird as i don't remember any of them. :nenau

Ged
 
DCT is indeed great , though I forgot the other week and blipped it whilst filtering , not the brightest idea.
 
Love my dct on my x-adv.... agree with the point about u turns and tricky manoeuvres though.... the only time I've missed the ability to have a bit of clutch control
 


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