Dead at the key...

Bypass doesn't make any difference - there is no electrics coming on at the key. BUT, there is plenty of power in the battery, it is fully charged and strong - and putting an allen key across the starter contact to the spade end connector created a fat spark! So the wiring has power in it - but it doesn't get to the key and it was before I took the old key section of wiring off - this is what puzzles me so much, I haven't touched anything else.

Any suggestions? PLEASE.
 
Bypass doesn't make any difference - there is no electrics coming on at the key. BUT, there is plenty of power in the battery, it is fully charged and strong - and putting an allen key across the starter contact to the spade end connector created a fat spark! So the wiring has power in it - but it doesn't get to the key and it was before I took the old key section of wiring off - this is what puzzles me so much, I haven't touched anything else.

Any suggestions? PLEASE.

It's unlikely that the new switch & its wiring are at fault, so try looking downstream - the bike's loom from the 'orange block'. You should be able to temporarily connect the pins in the loom socket to check. Wiring diagram here: LINKY

No power to the key-switch connector means there's a problem between it and the battery. Trace the wiring, fuses, connectors with a meter.
 
Bypass doesn't make any difference - there is no electrics coming on at the key. .

Have you done the bypass correctly ? Just to be clear, Unplug the orange connector and bridge the green and red wire on the bikes orange connector block, not the ignition switch loom connector.
:D


Stop blindly flailing around disconnecting and removing things.
 
Have you done the bypass correctly ? Just to be clear, Unplug the orange connector and bridge the green and red wire on the bikes orange connector block, not the ignition switch loom connector.
:D


Stop blindly flailing around disconnecting and removing things.

That was what I did , because of the advice with the two way switch picture attached.... I shall stick a wire in the orange block on the bike and try it.
Thank you.
 
No power to the key-switch connector means there's a problem between it and the battery. Trace the wiring, fuses, connectors with a meter.

I don't have one any more - and as it is about 25 years since I used one, I am not sure I can remember how to.
 
Bypass doesn't make any difference - there is no electrics coming on at the key. BUT, there is plenty of power in the battery, it is fully charged and strong - and putting an allen key across the starter contact to the spade end connector created a fat spark! So the wiring has power in it -.


Puzzled, surely there should be no power to the relay if the ignition is of???
 
Puzzled, surely there should be no power to the relay if the ignition is of???

I don't know - I am just trying to do what people have suggested. I think I am going to get a dealer to come and fetch it and sort it out. I am just getting more and more confused. The orange block crossed wirre hasn't brought the dash lights on either.
 
Puzzled, surely there should be no power to the relay if the ignition is of???

What relay ? Ratty has directly bridged the live terminal (which comes straight from the battery) on the starter motor.
 
Bypass doesn't make any difference - there is no electrics coming on at the key. BUT, there is plenty of power in the battery, it is fully charged and strong - and putting an allen key across the starter contact to the spade end connector created a fat spark! So the wiring has power in it - but it doesn't get to the key and it was before I took the old key section of wiring off - this is what puzzles me so much, I haven't touched anything else.

Any suggestions? PLEASE.

I don't have one any more - and as it is about 25 years since I used one, I am not sure I can remember how to.

Perhaps you have a friend nearby who has one and can help. If you can't diagnose the problem, you'll struggle to fix it.
 
Thanks for trying to help folks. I have given up with it - a dealer is coming to fetch it tomorrow to take it to the workshop to fix it. It is causing me too much anxiety and I have lost the motivation now, but thank you for trying. Nothing seemed to work.
 
Well, it would appear that I must have not lined the plastic bit up properly in the barrel... it worked perfectly when they tried it at the workshop. I tried it with a screwdriver, can't have turned it to the correct position. :blast :surrender
 
Well, it would appear that I must have not lined the plastic bit up properly in the barrel... it worked perfectly when they tried it at the workshop. I tried it with a screwdriver, can't have turned it to the correct position. :blast :surrender

Sweet mother of Jesus.
I thought it was just modern tech that you had difficulty mastering... This is as analogue as it's possible to get. A plastic switch that needs turning :D
 
Sweet mother of Jesus.
I thought it was just modern tech that you had difficulty mastering... This is as analogue as it's possible to get. A plastic switch that needs turning :D

OK, OK - but what about the time you went through everything only to find the quick release fuel line wasn't propely fastened.... after you had swapped injectors and everything! :p
 
In King Rats defence I’m sure we have all had issues before that when looked at by another appears a simple solution which we missed. Though the “switch” to ribbing on here is not unusual and is a “key” reminder to step back from a problem sometimes to think it through.
 
In King Rats defence I’m sure we have all had issues before that when looked at by another appears a simple solution which we missed. Though the “switch” to ribbing on here is not unusual and is a “key” reminder to step back from a problem sometimes to think it through.

Are you sure you haven't got your wires crossed?
 


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