Dead at the key...

King Rat · Jul 1, 2019

Battery is in good nick.
Replaced the white 'switch' piece at the bottom of the key barrel.... checked the key positions and it works correctly, so the switch was in the right position before putting it in the key barrel and doing up the grub screw (I didn't lose the original, even though it is TINY!)
Coupled up the orange block and tried it - nothing.
Took the key switch end back out and tried it using a screwdriver - still nothing.
Is it possible that a brand new switch unit can be duff? If not, where next to look please? Turning the key does nothing, no dash lights, no fuel pump whirr, but the clock is still going, which doesn't tell me how many sparks are in the box, but it does indicate that there are some and as it got a full charge from a proper charger, I know it is well stocked with moveable electrons.
Going bald from scratching my head here!

topcat2006 · Jul 1, 2019

Have you checked all the fuses with a multimeter?

Was this a problem before replacing the switch?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

King Rat · Jul 1, 2019

topcat2006 said:
Have you checked all the fuses with a multimeter?

Was this a problem before replacing the switch?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

All worked before changing, but the key in the slot would lose contact, so intermittent contact. Steptoe said put new switch in - and told me how.... since fitting, checked it before putting the white bit into the barrel with screwdriver, worked.. doesn't work now. I have also wondered if the barrel isn't mking contact with the switch. But the switch is properly bedded into the barrel fully, otherwise the grubscrew wouldn't go home.

King Rat · Jul 5, 2019

Any chance of some more ideas of where to look for the problem please guys....

fatnfast · Jul 5, 2019

Use your old switch to check if the new one is faulty? Disconnect new one under the tank and plug the old one in. I know the old one was intermittently faulty, but it should as least eliminate the new switch.

Cook1e · Jul 6, 2019

It's unlikely that the new switch & its wiring are at fault, so try looking downstream - the bike's loom from the 'orange block'. You should be able to temporarily connect the pins in the loom socket to check. Wiring diagram here: LINKY

King Rat · Jul 7, 2019

Cook1e said:
It's unlikely that the new switch & its wiring are at fault, so try looking downstream - the bike's loom from the 'orange block'. You should be able to temporarily connect the pins in the loom socket to check. Wiring diagram here: LINKY

I have a feeling it is more likely to be my fitting it, the old one worked, sometimes, but was dodgy, hence fitting the new one..... could I have put the orange block in 180-degrees out of whack? Or is it handed so will only go in the one way? There is a load of fuel in the tank and I can barely lift it, literally. I haven't got any pipe to siphon it out either and I gave my camping stove filler pipe to the guy who bought the old one..... I could have just quick-fitted that and run the fuel out into cans.

Cook1e · Jul 7, 2019

My guess is that it wasn't the switch that was faulty, but the connector or the wiring. That's why it's still dodgy.

If you disconnect the return line from the tank, you can simply empty it with the fuel pump.

Steptoe · Jul 7, 2019

Cook1e said:
My guess is that it wasn't the switch that was faulty, but the connector or the wiring. That's why it's still dodgy.

.

Erm, its the connector and wiring that he’s replaced.

King Rat · Jul 7, 2019

Cook1e said:
My guess is that it wasn't the switch that was faulty, but the connector or the wiring. That's why it's still dodgy.

If you disconnect the return line from the tank, you can simply empty it with the fuel pump.

No I can't, because the key does NOTHING now, no dash lights, absolutely nothing. It at least worked before happily and was the key in the slot that was dodgy - all wiring is perfectly good. If I wriggled the kay in the slot it would go on and off - hence new key switch. Since fitting the new key switch everything has died, which is why I think I have done something in the fitting sequence.... don't look for new problems, it is the same problem not yet solved.

Posh Pete · Jul 7, 2019

King Rat said:
No I can't, because the key does NOTHING now, no dash lights, absolutely nothing. It at least worked before happily and was the key in the slot that was dodgy - all wiring is perfectly good. If I wriggled the kay in the slot it would go on and off - hence new key switch. Since fitting the new key switch everything has died, which is why I think I have done something in the fitting sequence.... don't look for new problems, it is the same problem not yet solved.

Daft laddie question: did you disconnect the battery when you did the work? Get my drift?

If it's not that, then go back to square one: remove and refit the wiring sub loom which includes the white switch section and try again.

King Rat · Jul 7, 2019

scotboxer said:
Daft laddie question: did you disconnect the battery when you did the work? Get my drift?

If it's not that, then go back to square one: remove and refit the wiring sub loom which includes the white switch section and try again.

No, I didn't. Why would I need to do that - I don't get your drift. What would it have done? I have checked the fuses, I did it myself without calling on Engineer! I even swapped some just to be on the safe side, from my spares I carry, because some of the brown ones are so fine I can't see the wire unless I have a magnifier, which I will get out of my scissor sharpening box and go through the fuses with.

Posh Pete · Jul 7, 2019

King Rat said:
No, I didn't. Why would I need to do that - I don't get your drift. What would it have done? I have checked the fuses, I did it myself without calling on Engineer! I even swapped some just to be on the safe side, from my spares I carry, because some of the brown ones are so fine I can't see the wire unless I have a magnifier, which I will get out of my scissor sharpening box and go through the fuses with.

Only trying to help. A lack of current could also have been due to a poor battery connection after re-connecting. It's still not entirely impossible so why not check it, just in case. If it's not that, I suggest you take the switch apart and try again.

Cook1e · Jul 7, 2019

Steptoe said:
Erm, its the connector and wiring that he’s replaced.

Yes I know and it's still dodgy. Of course I meant the EXISTING connector (the one that the new bit plugs into) and wiring. Sorry if not clear.

Cook1e · Jul 7, 2019

King Rat said:
No I can't, because the key does NOTHING now, no dash lights, absolutely nothing. It at least worked before happily and was the key in the slot that was dodgy - all wiring is perfectly good. If I wriggled the kay in the slot it would go on and off - hence new key switch. Since fitting the new key switch everything has died, which is why I think I have done something in the fitting sequence.... don't look for new problems, it is the same problem not yet solved.

Connect 12 volts to the pump via the under-tank connector.

What I'm suggesting is that the switch wasn't the problem in the first place, but dodgy wiring/connectors elsewhere. Surely there's not much to bugger-up removing the connector to the ignition and and replacing it with a new one? How about any earths near the switch?

Andi_archer · Jul 7, 2019

Did you reconnect all the earth leads?

fatnfast · Jul 7, 2019

On the standard 1150 you can slide the tank back just enough to access the orange connector for the ignition switch.
Can you do this on yours King Rat?

If so, you can bridge the connector between the GREEN and RED with a thick piece of wire.
This will bypass the switch.

What I keep in my tank bag is in the picture below. It's an old ignition switch sub loom (what you bought) with the switch connector removed and the green and red connected together via a switch.

You could use your old loom and make one the same.

This will tell you where to go next to fix your fault.

King Rat · Jul 7, 2019

fatnfast said:
On the standard 1150 you can slide the tank back just enough to access the orange connector for the ignition switch.
Can you do this on yours King Rat?

If so, you can bridge the connector between the GREEN and RED with a thick piece of wire.
This will bypass the switch.

What I keep in my tank bag is in the picture below. It's an old ignition switch sub loom (what you bought) with the switch connector removed and the green and red connected together via a switch.

You could use your old loom and make one the same.

This will tell you where to go next to fix your fault.

I shall do this and try it - I have been offered the loan of a trailer, because having spent about 12 hours on this now and still no further forward I am getting to the stage where I will happily take a sledgehammer to bike, I am so frustrated - my old one with 150,000 miles on it is still going strong (the one I sold after 14 years ownership to get the lower mileage one.....) :blast

It was supposed to be a simple fix.

King Rat · Jul 7, 2019

Sorry, I am forgetting my manners. I should have said thank you for your help so far, I have tried to heed it. I have done several of the suggestions - the battery is fully charged, I put the big battery charger on it, rather than the BMW trickle jobbie, and it put 4 amps in for about an hour then just dropped right back to 1 amp on the needle gauge. The clock is working, but nothing else is, no horn, no lights, no fuel pump, no dash lights.

Cook1e · Jul 7, 2019

Bypass the switch, as recommended by fatnfast.

Dead at the key...

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What a waste.

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Still got a pulse.

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Still got a pulse.

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