pretty sure it was from motorworks. About 250 quid
Fork seal
- Thread starter BADGER999
- Start date
Take it that’s for the pair ? Pattern stanchions at £125 each ?
Yep. Pair
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It might be worth checking the alignment and parallelism of the two fork legs to each other.
It's very easy on the telelever front end to tighten and torque everything up with the legs slightly out of alignment.
You need to sight across the front edges of the fork stanchions above the lower yoke and try to verify both front edges are totally parallel.
This problem is caused by the fact the top yoke and handlebars can rotate totally independently of the forks and are only used to pass on steering actions to the forks through rubber Metallastic bushes.
All rigidity is provided by the clamp screws in bottom yoke, the clamp screws in the bottom of fork legs and the wheel spindle.
To demonstrate this, if you loosen all the above fasteners then try turning handlbars back and forward while gripping wheel between legs
With these fasteners loose it's surprisingly difficult to tighten them up without things twisting slightly so it has to be done carefully while constantly checking alignment sighting.
I tend to do the above until it's all nipped-up then slacken and torque each screw ONE at a time so aligment maintained
Cheers.............................Grizzly
It's very easy on the telelever front end to tighten and torque everything up with the legs slightly out of alignment.
You need to sight across the front edges of the fork stanchions above the lower yoke and try to verify both front edges are totally parallel.
This problem is caused by the fact the top yoke and handlebars can rotate totally independently of the forks and are only used to pass on steering actions to the forks through rubber Metallastic bushes.
All rigidity is provided by the clamp screws in bottom yoke, the clamp screws in the bottom of fork legs and the wheel spindle.
To demonstrate this, if you loosen all the above fasteners then try turning handlbars back and forward while gripping wheel between legs
With these fasteners loose it's surprisingly difficult to tighten them up without things twisting slightly so it has to be done carefully while constantly checking alignment sighting.
I tend to do the above until it's all nipped-up then slacken and torque each screw ONE at a time so aligment maintained
Cheers.............................Grizzly
It might be worth checking the alignment and parallelism of the two fork legs to each other.
It's very easy on the telelever front end to tighten and torque everything up with the legs slightly out of alignment.
You need to sight across the front edges of the fork stanchions above the lower yoke and try to verify both front edges are totally parallel.
This problem is caused by the fact the top yoke and handlebars can rotate totally independently of the forks and are only used to pass on steering actions to the forks through rubber Metallastic bushes.
All rigidity is provided by the clamp screws in bottom yoke, the clamp screws in the bottom of fork legs and the wheel spindle.
To demonstrate this, if you loosen all the above fasteners then try turning handlbars back and forward while gripping wheel between legs
With these fasteners loose it's surprisingly difficult to tighten them up without things twisting slightly so it has to be done carefully while constantly checking alignment sighting.
I tend to do the above until it's all nipped-up then slacken and torque each screw ONE at a time so aligment maintained
Cheers.............................Grizzly
Yeah......makes sense but everything does look ok and I had no issues with getting the stanchion back through the top yoke after changing the seal. You mention the bushes though......could a worn bush cause the seal problem ???
No, the Metallastis bushes are just the rubber bonded bushes in the top yoke that the studs on top of the stanchions fix through.
Cheers...................Grizzly
No, the Metallastis bushes are just the rubber bonded bushes in the top yoke that the studs on top of the stanchions fix through.
Cheers...................Grizzly
Yep.....thanks for clearing that up for me. Despite the fact everything looks ok I think I’ll take your advice and loosen everything off and re-torque before splashing any cash.
dubster
Registered user
I have the same issue on mine, not that it helps in any way
Just learnt to live with it and make sure to give it a wipe with a rag before the MOT.
I have the same issue on mine, not that it helps in any way
Just learnt to live with it and make sure to give it a wipe with a rag before the MOT.
Have u tried doing anything at all......or just left it cos it’s no real bother ? Mine ain’t bad enough to feel I HAVE to tackle it..... have done the same as you for the last two MOT’s......just wiped it away and it’s got through fine. Would definitely prefer to sort it though.....might try a double lipped seal before ‘forking’ out for a new stanchion.
dubster
Registered user
Even changed the stanchions out but could never fix the issue.
Might try Grizzly's idea above next...I fitted the seals upside-down which caused a leak until I realized the cause and corrected it..
Even changed the stanchions out but could never fix the issue.
Bit gutted to hear that. Thought that changing the stanchions and seals would be sure to sort it
. Hard to think what else it could be as there is only a select few parts involved.ThreeDawg
Registered user
Did my seals a while back after one popped. Took a good few miles before they stopped leaving a tell tale oil line on the stanchions, but totally fine now.
Welshman
Registered user
did you bleed the air from the stanchion after fitting? It worked with mine. 
did you bleed the air from the stanchion after fitting? It worked with mine.
Yep.......air bled......appreciating all these suggestions though
You say the seals are from MW?
I've had the same problem on my 1200...with seals from MW ie. Pattern parts.
After reading a post in the 1200 section of someone else having the same problems (as me and perhaps you). Others reported the same and it was cured by purchasing OEM seals from BMW - which are in fact about the same price as MW items.
So I have done just this. Now waiting for a moment when I can get out there and for them.
Oh, the 'Bush' in the top yoke that the stanchions tips pass through are in fact spherical bearings - not just rubber encased bushes.
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I've had the same problem on my 1200...with seals from MW ie. Pattern parts.
After reading a post in the 1200 section of someone else having the same problems (as me and perhaps you). Others reported the same and it was cured by purchasing OEM seals from BMW - which are in fact about the same price as MW items.
So I have done just this. Now waiting for a moment when I can get out there and for them.
Oh, the 'Bush' in the top yoke that the stanchions tips pass through are in fact spherical bearings - not just rubber encased bushes.
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Interesting.......let me know how you go with the OE seals. Maybe someone can suggest where to get these OE seals for the 1150GS.......just looked and most places seem to just go with pattern items....would dealers still be able to get hold of them ?
Just looking for a bit of clarification before I take on the seal again. When I swapped it out last time I remember wondering if I’d seated the seal correctly. The ‘collar’ inside the fork leg ( circled in green ) has the washer sat on top ( circled in black ). Should the seal sit flush with these two items ? Remember struggling to tap the seal so it sat on top of the washer......always left a few mm gap and I was loathed to get too heavy handed. Hope this makes sense to the more mechanically minded.
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Interesting.......let me know how you go with the OE seals. Maybe someone can suggest where to get these OE seals for the 1150GS.......just looked and most places seem to just go with pattern items....would dealers still be able to get hold of them ?
BMW’s Main dealers can get you any part
Why would you think they can’t??
I used oem seals and all good
Where do you think Motorworks get their BMW oem
Parts from??
A franchised BMW dealer of course
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